Everything is a compromise. A slight increase in highway RPM may not necessarily be a bad thing if it moves you into the sweet spot/efficient engine RPM. My Sierra gets almost equal fuel economy in 5th and 6th gear, with metric 35's and stock gearing, 6th gear tends to lug a little bit. I really need to go to 4.10's.

Not a huge concern considering axle size, but as gear ratio goes up numerically the pinion gear gets smaller. We don't hear much about broken differentials in the adventure travel world like we do in the rock crawling world, it's not common, but it happens.
 
Ummm... yeah... these side boxes are cavernous.

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IMG_7733.JPG


Big thanks to @Mike for the Scepters :D
 
The closest thing to "factory runout" at speed on 37's would be 4.45 gears. So that's right between 4.30 and 4.56, both of which are options. I'm still researching but right now I'm thinking 4.30's would be perfect, I'd rather opt for fuel economy on the gearing since power is not an issue with the Cummins.

@bob91yj what gearing would you choose in this application?
 
I'd need transmission final drive gearing, crunch the numbers in a gear ratio calculator. When given an option with my Jeep's I've taken the numerically higher option (4.88's in my YJ, and 5.13's in the LJ). I feel that the OEM's tend to gear vehicles for the "economy" end of the efficiency curve vs the performance side of the curve.

I'll tell you one place that leans me towards the performance side of the equation are two lane roads when you want to make a pass (particularly in Baja). Hammering the throttle and then waiting for a double down shift, the turbo to spool up and 9,000 pounds to start accelerating can be an eternity. I've learned to prepare for the passing situations by manually downshifting and getting on the boost while I'm waiting for the lane to clear.

My advice to you would be to run a set of tires into the ground with your current set up. Especially in the mid west, you may discover that loafing along barely off idle on the relatively flat ground is perfect.
 
I agree. Run the tire you want for awhile to see how it does. I know a gear swap is a big chunk of change, and you might find you like where you are well enough to save the money. I drove on 4.10's for almost 10 years before I finally swapped. And I have a manual transmission. Auto trans should be more forgiving.
 
Automatic transmissions are typically less forgiving and shift according to a set of programmed parameters outside the control of the operator (save reprogramming of the ECU). Manual transmissions allow humans to aurally adjust the shift points. Ask me how I know...
 
Automatic transmissions are typically less forgiving and shift according to a set of programmed parameters outside the control of the operator (save reprogramming of the ECU). Manual transmissions allow humans to aurally adjust the shift points. Ask me how I know...

Yeah... I've heard your aurally adjusted shift points. Sounded like..... whhaaaaa.... whhaaaaa.... whhaaaarroarr....

It was like the jump to light speed ;)
 
Yeah... I've heard your aurally adjusted shift points. Sounded like..... whhaaaaa.... whhaaaaa.... whhaaaarroarr....

It was like the jump to light speed ;)

I'm just glad we read that instead of heard it in conversation. It would have taken a minute to figure out he didn't mean "orally adjusted".
 
Automatic transmissions are typically less forgiving and shift according to a set of programmed parameters outside the control of the operator (save reprogramming of the ECU). Manual transmissions allow humans to aurally adjust the shift points. Ask me how I know...

That's all about to change as I have a programmer from Edge en route. I'll soon be able to adjust all kinds of things :cool:
 
Next addition to the Torque Wagon will be the Edge Products Juice with Attitude

F96356060.jpg


Looking forward to full control of the drivetrain from in the cab "on the fly". Five different power levels and some other useful features:

POWER LEVELS

Level 0: Stock

Level 1: 25 Horsepower - 70 Foot Pounds of Torque

Level 2: 40 Horsepower - 90 Foot Pounds of Torque

Level 3: 50 Horsepower - 120 Foot Pounds of Torque

Level 4: 65 Horsepower - 160 Foot Pounds of Torque

Level 5: 80 Horsepower - 200 Foot Pounds of Torque

FEATURES

- Timing adjustments (new percentage adjustments)

- Tire size recalibration on dash

- Axle gear ratio adjustment

- Torque management adjustment

- Undetectable when truck is returned to stock

- Adjust power levels on-the-fly

Oh, and adding a nose camera is going to be pretty useful on the trail

Edge_Juice_With_Attitude_CTS2_Features.jpg
 
A friend has a Bully Dog computer that will allow changing the TPMS set pressures, at least for Jeeps. Might be worth a look.
 
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I had an Edge tuner on my '01 DuraMax, worked as advertised.

A bit of an apples/oranges comparison, but every blown head gasket I've seen on a Dura Max was on a chipped engine. It's not so much the engine/gasket/heads as it is the head bolts. If you're going to turn it up, look into some ARP or similar upgraded head bolts. I already know the standard answer, "you're not going to turn it up", every guy I know swears he isn't going to do it, every one of us does it "just to see". My '01 ran like a scalded dog, smoked like a freight train on my "just to see" runs.:cool: I hate smoke almost as much as I hate LOUD.
 
Hello!

Just came across your thread and have jumped some of the hurdles you're going through, let me see if I can help you out.

It's not that I don't like them. They're great tires and perfect out here in the west. That said, I'm moving to IL soon and I think a true all terrain tire (more siping, better rain and snow performance) will be better in this application. Truth be told, the BFG AT is my all time favorite tire so that's weighing on me as well.

There's nothing wrong with Toyo, or Nitto, or even Cooper. I'm just a BFG fan boy :)

You may regret this decision. It's very well known that BFGs in the 37" flavor are known to delaminate and blow out on our heavy dodges. They don't have the sidewall strength. I can cite some sources if you're interested, but I've seen it happen first hand.

My circle of dodge diesel friends abuse our trucks a little differently because we all have desert prerunner type trucks, but I've seen it happen on stock rigs too.
The closest thing to "factory runout" at speed on 37's would be 4.45 gears. So that's right between 4.30 and 4.56, both of which are options. I'm still researching but right now I'm thinking 4.30's would be perfect, I'd rather opt for fuel economy on the gearing since power is not an issue with the Cummins.

@bob91yj what gearing would you choose in this application?

I have the nitro 4.30s, I'm very happy with them. Our friend Don thuren from thuren fabrication has 4.10s on 38s and likes them as he does a ton of highway driving.


Next addition to the Torque Wagon will be the Edge Products Juice with Attitude

View attachment 25397

Looking forward to full control of the drivetrain from in the cab "on the fly". Five different power levels and some other useful features:

POWER LEVELS

Level 0: Stock

Level 1: 25 Horsepower - 70 Foot Pounds of Torque

Level 2: 40 Horsepower - 90 Foot Pounds of Torque

Level 3: 50 Horsepower - 120 Foot Pounds of Torque

Level 4: 65 Horsepower - 160 Foot Pounds of Torque

Level 5: 80 Horsepower - 200 Foot Pounds of Torque

FEATURES

- Timing adjustments (new percentage adjustments)

- Tire size recalibration on dash

- Axle gear ratio adjustment

- Torque management adjustment

- Undetectable when truck is returned to stock

- Adjust power levels on-the-fly

Oh, and adding a nose camera is going to be pretty useful on the trail

View attachment 25398

I would highly recommend against this for two reasons.

1: emissions intact tuning on our trucks with dpf and scr is not fun if you head to remote places. By running a tuner with emissions intact your truck will more often want to do a regen, so unless you run an active regen the truck will not run out of limp mode until you get it to highway speeds.

2: trans tuning, I didn't see if you had an Aisin or a 68rfe, but the biggest deal when tuning and adding more power with a stock trans is trans tuning, mm3 or efilive will provide you the option to tune your trans if you have a 68rfe. If you have an Alison other options are available as well.

I highly suggest you look into efi live from a reputable tuner, I've been running it for 25k miles now.



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I had an Edge tuner on my '01 DuraMax, worked as advertised.

A bit of an apples/oranges comparison, but every blown head gasket I've seen on a Dura Max was on a chipped engine. It's not so much the engine/gasket/heads as it is the head bolts. If you're going to turn it up, look into some ARP or similar upgraded head bolts. I already know the standard answer, "you're not going to turn it up", every guy I know swears he isn't going to do it, every one of us does it "just to see". My '01 ran like a scalded dog, smoked like a freight train on my "just to see" runs.:cool: I hate smoke almost as much as I hate LOUD.
I think the quote from "This is spinal tap" goes something like "yeah but this one goes to 11!"


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@trophycummins you think the Edge programmer issues only apply to the newer DPF and regen type trucks? I've been looking into one as well for my 2003. I like the idea of not having to install and wire 3-4 gauges.

Be interested in feedback from the Edge either way. They seem like cool little units with lots of options.
 
@trophycummins you think the Edge programmer issues only apply to the newer DPF and regen type trucks? I've been looking into one as well for my 2003. I like the idea of not having to install and wire 3-4 gauges.

Be interested in feedback from the Edge either way. They seem like cool little units with lots of options.

Correct.

I'm not a big fan of box tuning either way, I'd prefer efi live if it was available for the truck you have. But I have friends with edge in their trucks and it seems to work well.


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No idea what efi live is

AFAIK, part of the AT KO2 project for BFG was tougher sidewalls. I'm assuming that the newer AT's are better.
 
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