Dave's Jeep JT Gladiator: The 'Gator

Not yet. I’ll likely hit a CAT scale at a truck stop when I head out on a real trip with a “real world” load out.

Absolutely NOT running a dual battery. I don’t need one running down the road, and I don’t need one in camp with my solar setup.

I’m curious about your last statement. Can you elaborate? Do you think that a solar panel will run a fridge for several days If you’re stationary and using the Jeep’s battery? That is my concern.
 
So here's the breakdown for weight in the bed.

Note: Payload for the JTR is +/- 1,200 lbs.

Leitner ACS forged rack w/extra cross bar: 90 lbs
Leitner XL Gear Pods x2: 100lbs
Quick Pitch RTT: 180 lbs
(Total rack, pods and RTT: 370 lbs)
Maxtrax bracket w/pins: 5 lbs
Maxtrax Xtreme: 20 lbs
HiLift bracket: 3 lbs
HiLift Extreme: 31 lbs

Total load in the bed: 429 lbs

I feel pretty good about the current layout and here's why.

Wheels and suspension upgrade is a wash IMO. Tires are heavier than OEM (285/70R17 versus 315/70R17) at 14 lbs per tire x5 for a net gain of 70 lbs.

Front bumper upgrade is lighter than OEM. The Warn Zeon 10-S is 80 lbs. Safe Xtract S-20000 recovery kit is 35 lbs. So a net gain of 115 lbs for the winch & gear.

The removal of the OEM 40% rear seat for the addition of the Goose Gear seat delete and Engel Fridge (66 lbs) might have gained me 30 lbs.

So all told, with the 429 lbs in the bed, the 70 extra lbs in tires, about 30 lbs for the fridge and 115 lbs worth of winch utilizes about half my payload at 644 lbs.

This leaves room for people and provisions and keeps me under GVWR. But I still intend on adding some White Knuckle rock sliders so we'll revisit this number once I'm done.
Been following Dan Grec’s build of his JTR down in Australia (The Road Chose Me) and it’s interesting that the payload for a JTR down under is approx 400lbs higher than the US models. I mean it doesn’t change anything here but food for thought. I think Jeep here in US is being conservative with the GVWR. My understanding is Australia takes GVWR more seriously than here in US as far as keeping an owner honest.
 
Been following Dan Grec’s build of his JTR down in Australia (The Road Chose Me) and it’s interesting that the payload for a JTR down under is approx 400lbs higher than the US models. I mean it doesn’t change anything here but food for thought. I think Jeep here in US is being conservative with the GVWR. My understanding is Australia takes GVWR more seriously than here in US as far as keeping an owner honest.

I noticed that too. It could be a couple of reasons. One, the Gladiator Rubicon comes with smaller tires (both diameter and width) which may improve the requirements for a heavier loading.
Secondly, the testing parameters are almost certainly different which could result in a higher rating..
 
I’m curious about your last statement. Can you elaborate? Do you think that a solar panel will run a fridge for several days If you’re stationary and using the Jeep’s battery? That is my concern.

Yes. I’ve done it. First in the JL, now in the JT. You just need the right panel and solar controller.

I’m also VERY conservative with my power needs in camp. I’m not using anything on the vehicle other than the fridge. Everything else is off. And you can program your lights etc to NOT come on every time you open a door etc. I’ve got other ways to charge devices etc as well so really, my only real draw when stationary is the Engel. And my 215w panel makes beaucoup juice most days. I also carry a larger Noco jumpstart pack JIC.

YMMV. But I intend to keep my battery and charging system OEM and covered under warranty for as long as possible.

7CF40E2B-3A1E-44CF-9722-67258DC6326B.jpeg
 
I'll be moving discussions specific to the Quick Pitch RTT to it's own thread over HERE
 
Another small but important mod here, used some surplus Leitner Designs RTT brackets to make anchors for the Force Protector Gear Adapter Shade Panel over the tailgate area.

Now it’s as easy as threading the two grommets (52 inches center to center mounting holes) onto these hard mounted studs, add a wing nut and SHAZAM!

The desert winds may beat me to death with poles and guylines but by Thor’s hammer, that shade panel will stay attached to the truck!

;)

EF2CBCFC-1E8C-4E8D-8B25-C11B34637FC3.jpeg
 
Clever. Using left over stuff for new purposes is always satisfying.

Though I kinda now wanna see a video of Dave defiantly steadfast while being pummeled by tarp poles…
 
Nice! I'm looking at doing the same thing using the OEM vinyl flooring from Toyota. Carpet is dumb.

Exactly. It's amazing how tone deaf the OEM's are when it comes to this issue.

Trucks and especially 4WD vehicles should NOT have carpet. If anything, maybe carpet as an option on a top trim level for the "Platinum Longhorn Queen Sierra Ranch" or whatever crowd.
 
Front passenger. This stuff is TOUGH. As in trauma shear defeating. Much thicker than the cheap OEM carpet.

NOTE: For the “I’d rather Line-X the floorboards” crowd, you can see here how ugly the unfinished floor pan is. HVAC and various electrical runs are visible throughout - you would be putting bedliner OVER those potentially serviceable items and that would not only be dumb, it would look like shit. It would also provide NO noticeable sound deadening and no real insulation from the heat of the V6 exhaust which is 3-4 inches directly under the floorboards on both sides. Armorlite addresses all these issues well.


32D2B23A-DC27-4531-9624-7F1EFC8E2347.jpeg


30BE58B1-3095-4711-BEB6-428498021467.jpeg
 
Drivers side before bolting the seat up. You can see the coverage under the seats here. This large, protected seam area also creates a way for moisture to escape if by chance it somehow became trapped under this layer. I think a single piece of cab flooring would be damn near impossible to handle during install so this modular design works well IMO..

1EF8DA84-1DEF-48C9-BB80-3A85A0311CEA.jpeg
 
Back
Top Bottom