Or this for those hard to reach spots.Tape thimbles.
Tape thimbles. Sticky side out. Why didn't I think of these sooner? I don't want to contemplate how much time I wasted, and how many profanities I've shouted, trying to get a nut on a nearly impossible to reach bolt.
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This rust pile is my brothers GX 470. He's letting me borrow it so I'm installing Rigid backup lights. The upper bolts I could barely get the finger to.
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Or this for those hard to reach spots.
https://tite-reach.com/products/tite-reach-extension-clamp
I've done tape on box ends. Also washer, lock washer, nut stacks taped in/on a socket. This was PITA. The bottom of the Metal Tech bumper angles back with it's bottom edge in line with the back face of the crossbar.I've used that method many times over the years.
One other method I've used is to put tape over the opening of a box end wrench. Drop the nut it, slide the wrench under the mount/frame, line up with the hole, and turn the nut in.
It also works with open end wrenches, but is a little trickier.
Did it break under load or was that done with just simple friction between the tire, the ground or concrete, and the tow rope in between?
We were going slow, through a turn on pavement. As I was working the steering (non-powered power steering), I was just thinking "where is the rope?" when I drove over it. I assume the towing truck pulled when my tire was on the rope. It was in 2 pieces in only a couple of seconds.
It really sucks - I won that rope as a door prize at the first Appalachian Rendezvous.
I wonder if I can send it back to Master Pull, and have them splice a loop on the long piece. 16 foot tow strap?
Splice a loop on it yourself!
It really sucks - I won that rope as a door prize at the first Appalachian Rendezvous.
Try on the short piece first. Or you can dissect the splice on the short end and see how it was done.I've never spliced double-braid line, only single braid. I guess this would be a good time to learn.