We like having the fridge up front in the cab of the truck. Easy to grap a cold drink or a snack while on the road and it doesn’t eat dust in the bed of the truck. Usually it rides on the folded down portion of the 60% rear seat. Works good back there but eats a lot of rear interior room, plus the passenger has to wiggle and giggle to open the fridge while moving. Than
@Dave posted a pic of his fridge solution awhile back with the fridge facing forward behind the drivers seat. That frees up a bunch of interior room, he’s a clever boy. Photo shamelessly stolen from the Gator build thread.
Out of curiosity I checked out the Goose Gear site for the Tacoma equivalent...nearly $500 for a 40% seat delete..ah, nope, ain’t doing that. My wallet screamed in agony at even the thought. So I did what I normally do, rummage around in the shed and see what can be imagineered more homebrew than hipster.
First it was time to remove the rear 40% seat to see if the fridge would even fit. Luckily the opening in the drivers side rear wall enclosure is just about an inch wider than our ARB 50 fridge so I could make it fit utilizing the set back there. I imagined possible mounting methods for a tray and realized the hinges for the rear seat back would work perfect but I would have to space the front up. Than I found the old aluminum scaffolding planks from Fafhrds RTT rack that were our entry porches to the Maggie. Hmmm. Placing them side by side they would fit perfect between those seat hinges, now we’re getting there. Than I found an old cut off piece of aluminum extrusion from my LJ rack when it was being used as a test fit mule. Holy crap it’s the perfect height when placed on the lower seat hinge to match the height of the tray in the rear. The truck mod gods are smiling on me today!
I cut one scaffolding plank in half, bolted them together and than made front and rear supports out of 2x2 aluminum angle to add support. The slotted extrusion was cut 2” longer than the planks to allow for a hold down mount. The slotted rail bolts to the lower seat hinges making it moveable, and the planks mount to the underside of the seat back hinges. Stainless steel button head Allen bolts were used so there would be no hard edges. Also I had them in the toolbox from another project so...
That above is the tray in the up position. I don’t really need it to hinge as that under seat tool box is readily accessible from the other side but why the hell not.
Tray in the down position, the eye bolt allows me to bolt down and secure the tray easily for the side. It locks the tray very securel, there’s no wiggle or give at all. I need to source the correct length bolt but It’s what I had in the shop and for once I did a project without having to make a run into town. It’s true.
There was a piece of carpeting left over from my bed drawer build so I cut it to fit the tray to act as an insulator between fridge a tray...
Here you can see the fridge slid back into the rear panel access.
The fridge is secured with 2 cam buckle straps that wrap around the rail and the lift handle of the fridge in the front, and a single cam buckle secured to the child safety seat hoop in the rear. This past weekend bouncing down the forest roads of southern PA the fridge rode great, we we’re very pleased with this set-up. Both front and rear feet of the fridge are setting squarely on the tray. I could bolt it in but that would be a pain as it’s rarely in the truck other than when we are out wandering.
Theres room under the tray for storage, I’m thinking winch controller, soft shackles and a tree strap tucked into a low profile bag would ride nice there.
All told I figure I have about $40 max in this thing and it looks pretty good. Wait for the Haggis Gear Tacoma Seat Delete Kickstarter campaign..
Nah, just imagineer some stuff for yourself. Now what to do with that extra $450 in my pocket?