The Chainsaw Thread

OK, so I have a Poulan saw, we've established that they are a low grade saw. Is there a different brand bar that is recommended, and secondly, what type/style/whatever the difference is, what chain should I use? I don't want to re-invent the wheel, polish a turd, etc, but if I can make improvements with a modest budget/as needed, I will.

Chris reports that the only real issue he had with the Poulan was the bar coming loose a couple of times.

Chainsaws terrify me (no joke), I have no problem having the tool to do the job and letting someone that knows what they are doing handle the task at hand. It's a long story, I have worked as a groundsman for my neighbor with the tree trimming business (15 years ago) I told the boss that I would carry the cuttings to the chipper all day long, had ZERO interest in using a chainsaw, hell, I didn't really care for shoving cuttings into the chipper.
 
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Haggis said:
A decent household saw from Stihl or Husky can be had for under $300. On sale a saw like a Stihl 280 (my little saw) can be had for under $250. And no @Scott, cutting a few limbs up in your yard is not enough experience.
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This. I was at the local Ace Hardware tonight. They carry Stihl. A small MS170 will cost a guy less than $200. An MS271 (Nice!) can be had for under $300.
 
Haggis said:
Of course so...I know what I'm talking about here. ;)
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I'm not disputing that. I won't win even if I do try to dispute. I'll continue to use my cheapo chainsaw that I've used for years and I'll hope I don't cut an appendage off.

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As far as electric chainsaws go, I'd like to try out this lithium ion powered Stihl MSA 200 C-BQ, a 36V saw that's quiet.

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But, at over $600, I could buy a real saw ;)
 
I prefer an old-fashioned light saber, a much more elegant tool of a more civilized time. It cuts through all types of wood as well as blast doors and enemies alike.

You can get less expensive models at Harbor Freight but the components are uniformly made of cheap materials, especially the kyber crystals, which really need to be sourced from the ice caves of Ilum in order to get the best quality frequency to tap into the Force.

I've always found you had to work harder with the cheaper models, having to take a couple of passes at a limb before you can take it down. The better built, more expensive models are easier to use because you only need one clean swipe to cut a torso in half or cleanly slice through a blast door even with electro-magnetic bolts! Sure it's a little more expensive but a real time saver on the trail or far-flung galactic war.

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I have a stihl 011 that is about 20 years old, has never let me down. I got it when living in the high country of Colorado and needed cords and cords of fire wood to heat my house. Living now in the high desert of Arizona I don't often take it on excursions. I do run it empty of fuel before storing it. I also have a Hults burk forest axe that lives under the back seat of my truck that is one nice piece of "kit".
 
I'm just one bad decision after another. My angle grinder is a Ryobi, still going strong after years of use, fortunately I have a DeWalt 18v for a back up!:cool:
 
I was unaware of there being a Ryobi taboo.... ? Goes to show you how many friends I have... :(
My angle grinder is a BEAST. Granted, I didn't buy it....
 
Chainsaw's have only one purpose - cutting wood - and the other penalty, the weight and cube it displaces ( fuel, tools, replacement parts) from other valuable gear like SnowPeak camp furniture and South African Cookware. The Overlander kit must include tools that serve multiple functions.

I've found explosives fit the ticket nicely. Great for shaving C-4 into slivers for campfire starting; a small cube of C-4 can be placed almost anyplace to pull a practical joke on friends (see PETT toilet thread); ensuring you have a quiet isolated camp spot when surrounded by other annoying campers; and of course felling trees or dismantling dead-fall.

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