Dave's Jeep JT Gladiator: The 'Gator

I have it bad for Gladiators and just read this thread through from the beginning. Beautiful build, Dave.

On the GVWR/GCWR issue, I learned over the last several months that these limits are set by different variables for different trucks. In some cases, suspension is spec’s softer than necessary for heavier loads. In some cases brakes are too small. In some cases, the drivetrain doesn’t have enough power, etc., etc. What was most fascinating to me is learning that some trucks are limited by their ability to shed heat and that this limitation is common in many mid-size trucks. I would not be surprised if heat is a major consideration in setting GVWR of the Gladiators.

Thanks for the kind words
 
The Leitner XL Gear Pods (Gen 2) are awesome. Gray Man Tactical makes some excellent Molle inserts for them that really increase their utility.

Quality 3M VHB Dual Lock and 3M primer attach them to the walls. The 3M Primer 94 should make a big difference in adhesion here.

Now lots of things can hang on the walls instead of being lumped in a pile, and the Leitner gear bags can still work with the panels in as they take up very little room on their own. Two of these RMP panels were used for each XL Gear Pod.

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Surface prep is key. Clean both surfaces with alcohol wipes and then apply the included 3M primer before you apply the 3M VHB Velcro tape.

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Now, anything with MOLLE attachment mounts right up.

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Grimlocks, 1 inch webbing or Velcro straps can now be used to attach anything and everything. The only limit is your imagination.

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With nothing on the walls, the Leitner gear bags still fit no problem. It’s nice to have options for load outs and organization.

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Front bump stop spacers. Passenger side is rubbing the coil, working on a solution.

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I had a very close call with an aggressive road raging lady in a Mustang trying to crowd me out of my lane last weekend. That reminded me that I've had this train horn sitting in a box for about a year now and it was time to find a place for it.

This is horn #6 on this truck (OEM x2 and Hella air horns x3) so now it goes all the way to 11.

The issue on the JL/JT is that there is not a lot of room under the hood so I had to get creative. Here's how I squeezed it in there:

Custom aluminum bracket, bent by hand to get the angles just right. Mounted to existing 10mm stud.

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Fender and liner removal to get at the desired area. Fender clips are sacrificial so make sure you have some on hand for re-install.

Custom aluminum bracket to keep the horn from moving, mounted to existing 10 mm stud.

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Air compressor. This required some McGuyvering to mount it. Used the existing bracket as shown, and made an aluminum "key" to mount on the bolt which captures the compressor. Bending the key locks it in place, and a 3M zip tie limits any movement. Added one more relay for this compressor in addition to the one for the Hella horns, all 6 horns are activated by the OEM steering wheel horn switch.

Popped the fender back on and you'll never know the horn is there, good use of some very limited free space.

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Good work! I still have my Nathans, I do exercise them when neighbors get a little noisy. Still the big dog on the block!
 
Now all you need to do is tune the horns to the brown note and aim it at the other drivers.
 
Since we added the Hellwig HD sway bar, let’s go ahead and reinforce those rear sway bar end link frame mounts.

OEM brackets are fine for most guys, but with hard use or heavy loads they’ve been known to fail.

Metalcloak has the answer. 1/4 inch laser cut steel reinforcement plates with gold zinc finish.

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OEM rear sway bar brackets. Good enough?

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Voila! MUCH stronger now. The mounting is clever as the plate ties into (captures) the ends of one of the frame crossmembers so if it were to try to leverage up or down, there’s no way the 1/4 inch plate can move. I installed these before any damage but if you’ve broken your OEM bracket this will cure your problem in a jiffy.

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Mount the Yak upside down, so when you turtle in the water ya good to go, just have to paddle harder!
 
You fit in that kayak????

It looks so small. LOL

It's a 10 footer so, yes. Sorta :D

But I think I may thin the herd a bit here (I have 3 in the 9-10 ft range) and get something a bit more sea worthy for the west coast. Looking at a 12 or 14ft Wilderness Systems or something that size for touring.
 
How does the horn compare to a electronic version? I had a similar style one on my old PU, but it was meh. IMO the air compressor is the weak link. I am looking at the Whelen 100+ watt electric ones.....
 

@Dave when you installed your tent, did you need the Leitner risers to clear the roof of the truck or was this for other clearance reasons? I’m considering a 23zero hard shell tent that will also overhand the truck cab. It would seem to clear with the standard height Leitner bars, but maybe I’m not accounting for something, flex?
 
@Dave when you installed your tent, did you need the Leitner risers to clear the roof of the truck or was this for other clearance reasons? I’m considering a 23zero hard shell tent that will also overhand the truck cab. It would seem to clear with the standard height Leitner bars, but maybe I’m not accounting for something, flex?

Yes. I have the tall risers installed. Initially (pre-RTT) it was for kayak clearance. They worked perfectly for the RTT.
 
How does the horn compare to a electronic version? I had a similar style one on my old PU, but it was meh. IMO the air compressor is the weak link. I am looking at the Whelen 100+ watt electric ones.....

No experience with electronic horns. That said, the air compressor is what gives these so much raw power - they really are tremendously LOUD.

I’ve had a few sets of air horns over the years and not once have I ever had a failed compressor. Even if you did it’s an easy replacement but YMMV.
 
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