Oxbow Afternoon

The Grand Tetons are a mountain range like no other in North America. They are a range one can experience by car, pulling over for a quick view and picture. Or, one can climb the sketchy north face of the Grand itself. For added adventure one can experience the Tetons by stand up paddleboard.

The Tetons have so much water in and around them. Popular lakes like String, Leigh, and Jenny dot the base of the mountain range and are filled with icy, refreshing waters. These lakes are popular with the SUP [stand up paddleboard] crowd and are an invigorating paddle. For something a little quieter and a whole lot more peaceful, try the Oxbow Bend on the Snake River.

My wife, Louise, daughter, Lilly, and I chose the Oxbow Bend for its calm waters, the incredible view, abundant wildlife, and lack of people on this section of the Snake River. We paddled through hidden green marshes. Around each bend, we anticipated seeing a moose, bear, elk, or coyote.

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With every paddle stroke came a different view of the solitude and beauty of the Tetons. Occasionally, the motor of a passing car on its way to Yellowstone broke the silence for just a few moments.

We paddled over the fish lurking the in cold waters below. Bald eagles, osprey, and hawks cried from the trees as we passed them quietly. That day the Oxbow Bend was ours.

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The Tetons were beginning to “speak” to us that our time was about over. We paddled until the clouds came up and over Mt. Moran and the rain fell on the shores of Jackson Lake. As drops began to hit our Land Cruiser, we packed up the SUPs and drove the dirt road back to pavement. As we glanced back, we saw the Oxbow Bend vanish in the rain clouds.

Relics: Carrizo Gorge

You need special shoes for hiking—and a bit of a special soul as well.

A north-south trending fault zone is responsible for the series of ridges and canyons at the southern end of the Anza-Borrego desert. Carrizo Gorge, the most dramatic of these, divides the Jacumba Mountains to the east from the In-Ko-Pah Mountains to the west. These mini-mountain ranges are links in the Peninsular Ranges from the Laguna Mountains in the northwest to the Sierra Juarez of Baja California. Carrizo Gorge is best known for the railroad that threads along its eastern wall: the San Diego & Arizona Eastern. Built in 1907-1919, the railroad carried freight—and for a time passengers—between San Diego and Imperial Valley. At its heart it is a remote and rugged wilderness area.

A trek down the length of Carrizo Gorge is long, rugged, and memorable. It is one to be taken cautiously, with the right equipment and clothing. Essential are long pants to protect you from the sharp thorns of mesquite, catclaw, and the needle-like tips from a particularly wicked type of bunch grass. Thick growths of tamarisk, cactus gardens, and slippery rocks will all conspire to hinder your progress. Feral cattle used to keep paths through the vegetation clear, but they were airlifted out of the canyon in the late 1980’s.

The California Conservation Corps has been involved in a project to eradicate the invasive tamarisk from the Carrizo Creek watershed. Past forays into the gorge from the north end have been relatively easy due to the removal efforts. However, I was curious to see how passable the southern section was. After dropping off a vehicle at the north end of the gorge, we made our way into Carrizo Gorge from the southern end near the small high desert community of Jacumba. We only made it in about 2 miles before all forward progress was halted due to the tamarisk, but a detour along the railroad tracks got us to our camp beside the Goat Canyon Trestle before nightfall.

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