Indel B 50qt

jscusmcvet

jscusmcvet

Adventurist
So you may have seen my posts about a fridge or cooler option for our pop up camper. I settled on the Indel B purchased from Equipt 1. A brief discussion with Paul had me placing my order. I received the fridge earlier this week. It appears well built and was easy to get set up and running. Took no time at all to cool off and accept my already cold Blue Moon beers. Don't know why but this has been the season for Blue Moon for me.
This morning I plugged into a 12v outlet on the battery box on my trailer. Also hooked up my 45w solar panels. As of this evening the fridge (and beer... what's left anyway) are a cold 34 degrees. Battery humming along at 13.1 or so....
 

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The Indel B is a solid fridge.. In fact, I have heard very few complaints of just about every fridge out there. I know Blkwgn had some issues with his huge Edgestar, but he's the only one who's had an issue that I am aware of. Fridges are just SOOO much better than dealing with melting ice all weekend out at the campground.
 
If they made the indel b in a size 63, that would probably be my next fridge
 
Any pics of the control panel or other details worth discussing?
 
So I have found out that while the fridge does run great off 12v, for some reason it does not like the 12v extension I rigged up to go from my power outlet on the dash of the jeep to the rear storage area. Any input as to what might cause this? Runs fine at the front with stock cord plugged straight into the 12v power supple, but when I plug in the extension I put together to reach the rear of the jeep I get an E1 code (not enough power) almost immediately.
John
 
jscusmcvet said:
So I have found out that while the fridge does run great off 12v, for some reason it does not like the 12v extension I rigged up to go from my power outlet on the dash of the jeep to the rear storage area. Any input as to what might cause this? Runs fine at the front with stock cord plugged straight into the 12v power supple, but when I plug in the extension I put together to reach the rear of the jeep I get an E1 code (not enough power) almost immediately.
John
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What gauge wire did you use, and what gauge wire does the factory 12v plug in the jeep have? I've found the constant hit 12v plug in my dodge doesn't have sufficient wiring to power my arb. The arb likes at least 10 gauge wire to power it.
 
Not surprising, you need a #10 loom from power source. This happens with ARB fridges too.
 
The fridges have a low voltage cut off to protect your battery. Long cable runs induce resistance or voltage drop. So while the cable may carry the amperage you need you are losing voltage before it gets there. Run a heavier gauge and you will be fine. Make sure it is fused close to power source. In most cases 10g will be sufficient but I would recommend googling a voltage drip calculator. You put in the starting voltage, amp draw, and distance it will tell you what size wire and what the voltage will be at the end of the line
 
Thanks you guys. We pull out tomorrow morning, so I guess I know what I will be doing tonight when I get off work :). I figured as much when I was experimenting last night and it would run fine with the stock wire, but not with my extension. I appreciate your help.

John
 
I will be wiring tonight with 10ga wire, through a fused distribution box, to the rear of the jeep. I will still have to run it on a 12v power outlet, as I can find no local source for Andersen plugs, or any similar type of connector, that I can tell anyway. The 12v outlet will be wired straight to the 10ga wire and grounded to the jeep. Thinking this should be OK since the 12v outlet on my battery box and the stock Indel 12v wire work fine.
 
jscusmcvet said:
I will be wiring tonight with 10ga wire, through a fused distribution box, to the rear of the jeep. I will still have to run it on a 12v power outlet, as I can find no local source for Andersen plugs, or any similar type of connector, that I can tell anyway. The 12v outlet will be wired straight to the 10ga wire and grounded to the jeep. Thinking this should be OK since the 12v outlet on my battery box and the stock Indel 12v wire work fine.
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There is nothing wrong with using the 12v cigarette style outlet, other than sometimes they will rattle loose. as for Anderson connectors and misc stuff, if I cant get it from work I order through http://www.powerwerx.com/ They have pretty good pricing and the customer service is great.
 
BlkWgn said:
There is nothing wrong with using the 12v cigarette style outlet, other than sometimes they will rattle loose. as for Anderson connectors and misc stuff, if I cant get it from work I order through http://www.powerwerx.com/ They have pretty good pricing and the customer service is great.
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Awesome, thanks. I guess we'll see how it performs once I gete this latest version wired up. What size fuse do you recommend be in between the battery and the fridge?
 
jscusmcvet said:
Awesome, thanks. I guess we'll see how it performs once I gete this latest version wired up. What size fuse do you recommend be in between the battery and the fridge?
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you want the fuse to be more than the fridge and less than the capacity of the wire. I am guessing the fridge is in the 7amp range so a 10 amp fuse should be about right
 
BlkWgn said:
you want the fuse to be more than the fridge and less than the capacity of the wire. I am guessing the fridge is in the 7amp range so a 10 amp fuse should be about right
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I know when I was installing my Whynter I found the following:

The fridge is rated at 4.5A or so at 12V according to the manual. After a bit of experimentation I found that not only was I blowing 5A fuses, I was also blowing 7.5A fuses :lol. So now I have it fused at either 10 or 15A ( Can't remember off the top of my head)
From what I can tell, it doesn't draw the higher amount all the time, and probably averages 4.5 or less. It probably spikes when the compressor initially kicks over.
 
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