sleddogsam
Adventurist
Nope. Because I pop the roof vent even if it's -22....
Do you have 2 vents or 1 in your model?
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Dave's Four Wheel Camper Flatbed Project: Zephyrus
- Thread starter Dave
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Do you have 2 vents or 1 in your model?
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pfft... seriously - this is Dave Bennett's thread... do you really think he would be satisfied with only one vent?
pfft... seriously - this is Dave Bennett's thread... do you really think he would be satisfied with only one vent?
I'm camped in the FWC tonight on the eastern bank of the great Mississippi River. A week ago I left my home in the California Republic headed East for a new job in northern Illinois. Along the way I saw EXTREME weather the likes of which most of you would never choose to camp in. January is brutal across the USA, and my route was purposely planned to avoid big highways like I-70 etc so that I could get "off grid" and see some authentic back-road Americana.
To date, the FWC and all of its systems have performed flawlessly. It has met or exceeded all expectations (so has the Torque Wagon that carries it), and I am providing feedback to the factory that will hopefully benefit future members of the FWC fraternity.
A few thoughts on "full timing" and lessons learned:
The Truma Combi furnace/hot water heater that I am the test-bed for works amazing. In true Germanic fashion it is quiet, efficient and dependable. I kept the heater on 40 while driving and the hot water heater was set at 104, 24/7 for days of driving. This kept the water tank unfrozen and ensured that I had a hot shower every other day. My water tank never froze.
On that note, I saw minus 24 degrees near Gunnison, Colorado in the forest - probably MUCH colder but I went to bed.
The key to surviving "Hoth-like" conditions was simple. Kept the top down and slept on the rear dinette bed area. Less cubic feet to heat and more efficient use of propane at nearly 8K feet elevation (propane is less efficient at altitude meaning you'll use more). I also kept a roof vent cracked to release condensation and ensure my O2 levels.
Since leaving SoCal a week ago, I've filled propane twice (maybe 6 gallons each fill). Obviously this was a little zealous with an eye towards NOT running out at an inopportune time. I was never OUT of propane so the refills were driven by my OCD
Daily routine in the camper solo is easy albeit lonely sans family. With no wife or daughter along, my impact is barely worth noting. Not much intake or output to mention, and this no doubt affected things like condensation in the camper during extreme weather. The Thetford has only needed one service in 2,000 miles and that was probably done more out of OCD than necessity.
Showering. Now that I have established a routine, showering is easy and pleasant. Really easy to deploy and stow, they did a great job with this design. My routine includes hanging the shower curtain outside to dry from the Fiamma awning right away so that it's ready to stow for travel in the morning. This can be done from inside without dismounting which is huge when you're in a towel...
Storage. While I have plenty, I'm still digging in bags for clothes etc. I will no doubt place a full set of skivvies etc in the camper so that I'm not getting out and digging in a backpack in the cab for socks etc.
Cooking. I went back to my roots this trip. Full circle from my heyday of Snow Peak IGT and big meals. This trip has been canned goods like Progresso soups (ready to go, no water required) etc etc. Granola cereal in the morning. Coffee. Apples. Jerky. Staying well hydrated with lots of water. Minimal alcohol (yes, I'm serious). A clear mind has been a blessing on this trip. Miles and miles of rumination, much of it with the radio OFF, is fueling the fires of my soul like nothing else. The road gives you time to think, and feel.
Sickness. It happens on the road. I started out with a pinch of the crud on this trip (Murphys Law) and gutted it out. I recommend that you always carry "Emergen-C" powder as well as NSAIDS and some expectorants. I also started to feel the effects of ALTITUDE around Monarch Pass in Colorado. Severe pounding headache as well as the need to urinate half liter about every 15 minutes (very inconvenient). The answer? Lose altitude (get off the mountain) and re-hydrate like a madman. It was brutal but short lived. It helped that I recognized the signs and symptoms and knew to get down ASAP.
All in all, an epic trip. I am one with the truck and camper and the road. Too bad it has to end, but I am far better for having taken the "long way" here.
To date, the FWC and all of its systems have performed flawlessly. It has met or exceeded all expectations (so has the Torque Wagon that carries it), and I am providing feedback to the factory that will hopefully benefit future members of the FWC fraternity.
A few thoughts on "full timing" and lessons learned:
The Truma Combi furnace/hot water heater that I am the test-bed for works amazing. In true Germanic fashion it is quiet, efficient and dependable. I kept the heater on 40 while driving and the hot water heater was set at 104, 24/7 for days of driving. This kept the water tank unfrozen and ensured that I had a hot shower every other day. My water tank never froze.
On that note, I saw minus 24 degrees near Gunnison, Colorado in the forest - probably MUCH colder but I went to bed.
The key to surviving "Hoth-like" conditions was simple. Kept the top down and slept on the rear dinette bed area. Less cubic feet to heat and more efficient use of propane at nearly 8K feet elevation (propane is less efficient at altitude meaning you'll use more). I also kept a roof vent cracked to release condensation and ensure my O2 levels.
Since leaving SoCal a week ago, I've filled propane twice (maybe 6 gallons each fill). Obviously this was a little zealous with an eye towards NOT running out at an inopportune time. I was never OUT of propane so the refills were driven by my OCD
Daily routine in the camper solo is easy albeit lonely sans family. With no wife or daughter along, my impact is barely worth noting. Not much intake or output to mention, and this no doubt affected things like condensation in the camper during extreme weather. The Thetford has only needed one service in 2,000 miles and that was probably done more out of OCD than necessity.
Showering. Now that I have established a routine, showering is easy and pleasant. Really easy to deploy and stow, they did a great job with this design. My routine includes hanging the shower curtain outside to dry from the Fiamma awning right away so that it's ready to stow for travel in the morning. This can be done from inside without dismounting which is huge when you're in a towel...
Storage. While I have plenty, I'm still digging in bags for clothes etc. I will no doubt place a full set of skivvies etc in the camper so that I'm not getting out and digging in a backpack in the cab for socks etc.
Cooking. I went back to my roots this trip. Full circle from my heyday of Snow Peak IGT and big meals. This trip has been canned goods like Progresso soups (ready to go, no water required) etc etc. Granola cereal in the morning. Coffee. Apples. Jerky. Staying well hydrated with lots of water. Minimal alcohol (yes, I'm serious). A clear mind has been a blessing on this trip. Miles and miles of rumination, much of it with the radio OFF, is fueling the fires of my soul like nothing else. The road gives you time to think, and feel.
Sickness. It happens on the road. I started out with a pinch of the crud on this trip (Murphys Law) and gutted it out. I recommend that you always carry "Emergen-C" powder as well as NSAIDS and some expectorants. I also started to feel the effects of ALTITUDE around Monarch Pass in Colorado. Severe pounding headache as well as the need to urinate half liter about every 15 minutes (very inconvenient). The answer? Lose altitude (get off the mountain) and re-hydrate like a madman. It was brutal but short lived. It helped that I recognized the signs and symptoms and knew to get down ASAP.
All in all, an epic trip. I am one with the truck and camper and the road. Too bad it has to end, but I am far better for having taken the "long way" here.
Winterizing the FWC Hawk with Truma Combi per Four Wheel Campers Instructions:
Note: Total time to winterize the camper minus adding any optional antifreeze is about 15 minutes. EASY!
Winterizing the Hot Water / Exterior Shower / Interior Shower / Cassette Toilet:
To reduce the possibility of fractures and splits in the system's water tanks, lines, and water pumps in climates where
the temperature is below freezing (32 degrees F; 0 degrees C), it is recommended that as much water as possible be drained from the system. You could also add a mixture of water and non-toxic antifreeze to the camper's water system.
CAUTION: Be sure to release the water pressure in the hot water tank before draining the system.
Step 1:
Drain the 20 Gallon Freshwater Tank and Drain Line.
The 20 Gallon Fresh water Reservoir is usually located under the camper's front seat area (near the front wall of the camper), and the exterior drain valve is located on the exterior wall of the camper (outside).
To drain the 20 gallon fresh water tank, make sure your truck is parked level.
Leave the "electric water pump" in the OFF position.
Open the hot and cold water valves on the sink faucet and leave them open.
Next, open (twist) the exterior drain valve on the rear wall of the camper and leave it open until the 20 gallon fresh water tank is drained
and water stops coming out. If your 20 gallon water tank is full, the draining process might take quite a while.
After the main water tank is empty, leave the small 20 gallon tank drain cock on the outside of the camper "OPEN".
Step 2:
Hook up the Inside Shower hose & wand (if equipped), turn it on and leave it open for the moment (with the electric water pump in the "OFF position").
Step 3:
Open the Low Water drain valve inside the cabinets (in-line valve on the water lines inside the cabinet).
Leave it open.
At this point, you should be able to hear the water draining out of the Truma furnace, and flowing down into the plastic 20 gallon fresh water tank.
The water in the hot water tank should slowly drain down & out into your 20 gallon fresh water tank, as long as the fresh water tank is already empty.
As the hot water heater tank starts to drain, you will probably also notice water start to drain out of the 20 gallon main water tank drain cock located on the outside of the camper.
Step 4:
Close the "Inside Shower Valve" and disconnect the inside shower wand, and stow it away.
Next, Drain the Water Pump.
Run the electric Water Pump for approximately 15 to 20 seconds, or as long as water is flowing out from the sink faucet, with both the hot & cold water at the kitchen sink valves opened. This should help to remove as much remaining water from the system as possible.
Turn the electric water pump "OFF", and leave both the hot & cold faucets on the sink "OPEN" position so that any excess water that could potentially freeze will have room for expansion (instead of cracking a water line or fittings).
Step 6:
Add Non-Toxic Antifreeze (optional).
If you are going to add Non-toxic RV Antifreeze to your camper water system for possible freezing water temperatures, you will need to add the correct amount of properly prepared "non-toxic" RV Antifreeze and water solution to back into your 20 gallon fresh water tank by pouring it into the fresh water filler port located on the outside of the camper. See antifreeze manufacturer's Water / Antifreeze mixture recommendations. Also check your Truma Owner's Manual to make sure this step is OK as well. Once you have a few gallons of properly mixed water/anti-freeze in the fresh water holding tank, turn on your electric water pump. Open the cold water valve at your sink faucet and run until you can see some of the antifreeze/water mixture flow from the sink faucets. Close the sink faucets. Next, operating just one shower fixture at a time, hook up both the inside shower wand & outside shower wand (if equipped) and turn on the electric water pump. Open the cold water valve, and run for a few moments until you can see some of the anti-freeze mixture come out. Close both shower water valves and disconnect the shower wand. Once disconnected, drain the shower wand & shower hose before storing it away. Drain the kitchen sink (if needed) and replace the cap on the sink's gray water spout (exterior of camper).
Once you have drained the hot water heater, drained the 20 gallon fresh water tank, introduced the non-toxic RV antifreeze, then go back through and open your sink faucets are open, open the shower valves, open the hot water tank valve inside the cabinets. Open the low water valve inside the cabinets, and open the plastic drain cock on the rear wall of the camper. This will allow any possible trapped water a place to move freely (instead of expanding outward and possibly cracking a water line) if it were to freeze.
Here's a video on winterizing the Truma Combi
DE-WINTERIZING THE CAMPER:
1. Close the low water drain on the Truma hot water heater.
2. Fill the fresh water tank completely.
3. Open the faucet on both hot and cold.
4. Turn the water pump on and let it run until it clears all the air out of the lines.
5. Turn the faucet off.
6. Connect shower hose head and open the valve to both hot and cold.
7. Let it run until all the air is out of the lines.
8. Repeat in both inside and outside shower locations.
*Water pump should turn off when it reaches pressure. If it continues to run then there may be air in the lines. Expel air in system using city water connection (ensure use of water a Water Pressure Regulator like Camco P/N 40055).
Note: Total time to winterize the camper minus adding any optional antifreeze is about 15 minutes. EASY!
Winterizing the Hot Water / Exterior Shower / Interior Shower / Cassette Toilet:
To reduce the possibility of fractures and splits in the system's water tanks, lines, and water pumps in climates where
the temperature is below freezing (32 degrees F; 0 degrees C), it is recommended that as much water as possible be drained from the system. You could also add a mixture of water and non-toxic antifreeze to the camper's water system.
CAUTION: Be sure to release the water pressure in the hot water tank before draining the system.
Step 1:
Drain the 20 Gallon Freshwater Tank and Drain Line.
The 20 Gallon Fresh water Reservoir is usually located under the camper's front seat area (near the front wall of the camper), and the exterior drain valve is located on the exterior wall of the camper (outside).
To drain the 20 gallon fresh water tank, make sure your truck is parked level.
Leave the "electric water pump" in the OFF position.
Open the hot and cold water valves on the sink faucet and leave them open.
Next, open (twist) the exterior drain valve on the rear wall of the camper and leave it open until the 20 gallon fresh water tank is drained
and water stops coming out. If your 20 gallon water tank is full, the draining process might take quite a while.
After the main water tank is empty, leave the small 20 gallon tank drain cock on the outside of the camper "OPEN".
Step 2:
Hook up the Inside Shower hose & wand (if equipped), turn it on and leave it open for the moment (with the electric water pump in the "OFF position").
Step 3:
Open the Low Water drain valve inside the cabinets (in-line valve on the water lines inside the cabinet).
Leave it open.
At this point, you should be able to hear the water draining out of the Truma furnace, and flowing down into the plastic 20 gallon fresh water tank.
The water in the hot water tank should slowly drain down & out into your 20 gallon fresh water tank, as long as the fresh water tank is already empty.
As the hot water heater tank starts to drain, you will probably also notice water start to drain out of the 20 gallon main water tank drain cock located on the outside of the camper.
Step 4:
Close the "Inside Shower Valve" and disconnect the inside shower wand, and stow it away.
Next, Drain the Water Pump.
Run the electric Water Pump for approximately 15 to 20 seconds, or as long as water is flowing out from the sink faucet, with both the hot & cold water at the kitchen sink valves opened. This should help to remove as much remaining water from the system as possible.
Turn the electric water pump "OFF", and leave both the hot & cold faucets on the sink "OPEN" position so that any excess water that could potentially freeze will have room for expansion (instead of cracking a water line or fittings).
Step 6:
Add Non-Toxic Antifreeze (optional).
If you are going to add Non-toxic RV Antifreeze to your camper water system for possible freezing water temperatures, you will need to add the correct amount of properly prepared "non-toxic" RV Antifreeze and water solution to back into your 20 gallon fresh water tank by pouring it into the fresh water filler port located on the outside of the camper. See antifreeze manufacturer's Water / Antifreeze mixture recommendations. Also check your Truma Owner's Manual to make sure this step is OK as well. Once you have a few gallons of properly mixed water/anti-freeze in the fresh water holding tank, turn on your electric water pump. Open the cold water valve at your sink faucet and run until you can see some of the antifreeze/water mixture flow from the sink faucets. Close the sink faucets. Next, operating just one shower fixture at a time, hook up both the inside shower wand & outside shower wand (if equipped) and turn on the electric water pump. Open the cold water valve, and run for a few moments until you can see some of the anti-freeze mixture come out. Close both shower water valves and disconnect the shower wand. Once disconnected, drain the shower wand & shower hose before storing it away. Drain the kitchen sink (if needed) and replace the cap on the sink's gray water spout (exterior of camper).
Once you have drained the hot water heater, drained the 20 gallon fresh water tank, introduced the non-toxic RV antifreeze, then go back through and open your sink faucets are open, open the shower valves, open the hot water tank valve inside the cabinets. Open the low water valve inside the cabinets, and open the plastic drain cock on the rear wall of the camper. This will allow any possible trapped water a place to move freely (instead of expanding outward and possibly cracking a water line) if it were to freeze.
Here's a video on winterizing the Truma Combi
DE-WINTERIZING THE CAMPER:
1. Close the low water drain on the Truma hot water heater.
2. Fill the fresh water tank completely.
3. Open the faucet on both hot and cold.
4. Turn the water pump on and let it run until it clears all the air out of the lines.
5. Turn the faucet off.
6. Connect shower hose head and open the valve to both hot and cold.
7. Let it run until all the air is out of the lines.
8. Repeat in both inside and outside shower locations.
*Water pump should turn off when it reaches pressure. If it continues to run then there may be air in the lines. Expel air in system using city water connection (ensure use of water a Water Pressure Regulator like Camco P/N 40055).
Hi Dave,
I just discovered this site (very nice) and your build. (Even better.) My 2015 Flatbed Hawk was the generation earlier than yours (mounted on a 2012 2500 Ram with the Hemi) and we love it. (Being a woodworker I pretty much disassembled the interior and did a massive customization on a brand new Hawk. Weird, I know.)
I have aluminum boxes under my flatbed. Could you address the "Fiberthane" material for boxes. Advantages? How well the boxes are holding up? Thanks!
NOTE: This isn't just mild curiosity. Even though Sioux and I love our build as-is I'm already reflecting on a regular cab 3500 Ram in the chassis cab version with room for a Grandby FB and a 15" storage box like you have.
Steve
I just discovered this site (very nice) and your build. (Even better.) My 2015 Flatbed Hawk was the generation earlier than yours (mounted on a 2012 2500 Ram with the Hemi) and we love it. (Being a woodworker I pretty much disassembled the interior and did a massive customization on a brand new Hawk. Weird, I know.)
I have aluminum boxes under my flatbed. Could you address the "Fiberthane" material for boxes. Advantages? How well the boxes are holding up? Thanks!
NOTE: This isn't just mild curiosity. Even though Sioux and I love our build as-is I'm already reflecting on a regular cab 3500 Ram in the chassis cab version with room for a Grandby FB and a 15" storage box like you have.
Steve
Love this beast of a build! Can't wait to see it in person. Is that just a modified ladder that you are using to get into the camper? Could you please post a photo of how it attaches to the flatbed. Also, what was the reason you went with that over something like a scissor step?
It is just a cut down aluminum ladder, it attaches via hooks to the rub rail on the tray. At the time of the build, there was no scissor step option long enough. That said, this is considerably lighter and more robust than any scissor step I've seen.
100acre
Adventurist
Hey @Dave what a great idea for hanging shirts/jackets. Might I ask, where did you get that?Here's a better photo with the new hanger extrusion in use.
View attachment 25291
You could easily hang several shirts here. 11 to be exact
View attachment 25292
The extrusion was provided by Tom at FWC.
The Fiberthane material is a urethane/fiberglass composite that is coated with "Scorpion" liner (similar to LineX, Upol Raptor etc). It's lighter than Baltic birch, and obviously impervious to the elements and should provide long service life. It also has another oft overlooked quality for storage boxes. Unlike aluminum, it does not draw condensation so the humidity level in a Fiberthane box is going to be far less than a comparable aluminum box. Your tools and gear will thank you.
DE-WINTERIZING THE CAMPER:
1. Close the low water drain on the Truma hot water heater.
2. Fill the fresh water tank completely.
3. Open the faucet on both hot and cold.
4. Turn the water pump on and let it run until it clears all the air out of the lines.
5. Turn the faucet off.
6. Connect shower hose head and open the valve to both hot and cold.
7. Let it run until all the air is out of the lines.
8. Repeat in both inside and outside shower locations.
*Water pump should turn off when it reaches pressure. If it continues to run then there may be air in the lines. Expel air in system using city water connection (ensure use of water a Water Pressure Regulator like Camco P/N 40055).
1. Close the low water drain on the Truma hot water heater.
2. Fill the fresh water tank completely.
3. Open the faucet on both hot and cold.
4. Turn the water pump on and let it run until it clears all the air out of the lines.
5. Turn the faucet off.
6. Connect shower hose head and open the valve to both hot and cold.
7. Let it run until all the air is out of the lines.
8. Repeat in both inside and outside shower locations.
*Water pump should turn off when it reaches pressure. If it continues to run then there may be air in the lines. Expel air in system using city water connection (ensure use of water a Water Pressure Regulator like Camco P/N 40055).
Easy day...
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