Dave's Four Wheel Camper Flatbed Project: Zephyrus

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Dave

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We ordered our Four Wheel Camper from Adventure Trailers a few months back and it's due to be delivered in August. Needless to say, we're pretty excited. As some of you know, we sold the Tacoma/FlipPac to fund this build and shopped around for a replacement truck first which ended up being a 2016 Ram 2500 - the Torque Wagon.

It has it's own build so the bulk of the camper specific stuff will be posted here to make it easier to find. Let's start the discussion with some info on FWC's in general and details on our specific order and why we chose what we did.

First off, why the flatbed?

In a nutshell, because you get a LOT more interior storage when you have a cube and doing away with the truck box opens up possibilities for even more storage (the flatbed details will come later). Flatbed FWC's are more costly yes, but IMHO it will be worth it in the long run as this will be my "retirement plan" aka escape pod. I'll need the interior space for provisions and gear and such as we cross the continent.

I have named this project Zephyrus after the Greek god of the West Wind, fleetest of all the wind gods.

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The fact that the Ram is silver made choosing the Silver Spur interior/exterior option a no brainer.

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There are a host of FWC dealers nationwide, but we chose to buy ours through Mario at Adventure Trailers as they will be building the flatbed conversion for us (very few dealers can do big overland builds like AT specializes in) and we wanted our very specific needs to be done right with the attention to detail that AT is known for. Here you can see the FWC flatbed spec sheet and estimate after we added options:

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FWC OWNERS MANUAL LINK HERE
 
Here are some nice cutaway shots of the FWC flatbed. The rear facing dinette (stealth camping friendly as that easily converts to a bed), side entry door and copious storage under the main bed were big selling points for me. Also note that due to the "cube" shape of the flatbed model that storage down low is maximized.

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Here you can see the "utilities" side of things where the furnace, propane etc will be located. There is room for two of those 10 lb propane cylinders and two deep cycle house batteries that will be maintained by the 160 watts of solar on the roof.

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The overhead view really shows the advantage of this side entry floor plan over the rear entry floor plan. The dinette area serves 3 purposes - seating, shower and spare bed. With the king size option on the main bed we can easily sleep 4. IMHO, you get quite a bit more usable interior space in this configuration.

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The "Dovetail Greystone" fabric is standard with the Silver Spur, an easy choice given the options here.

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Basic specs:

Base Model Dry Weight: 1050 Lbs.
Height Down (including vent) 60”
Roof Length: 149”
Floor Length: 80”
Body Width: 80”
Adult Sleeping: 3-4
Extended Interior Height: 6’6”
Roof/Wall Framing: Aluminum
Exterior Material: Aluminum
Fresh-Water Capacity : 20 Gallons

Standard Features:

All Aluminum “Flex-Frame”
Jack Brackets Only (steel)
Extended Cabover Bed w/ Mattress
Finished Wood Interior
Rear Dinette Seating w/ Swivel Table
Formica Counter Tops
Deluxe Fabric Cushions
Privacy Curtains
Screen Door
Stainless Kitchen Sink w/ Electric Water Pump
2 Burner Propane Stove w/ Cover
3-Way Refrigerator, Small 1.7 cu.ft. (AC/DC/Propane)
Camper Battery System (1 battery, wiring, separator)
110V Electrical System
12 Volt Outlets
30 amp Power Converter w/ IQ4 Smart Charger
LED Interior Lights
LED Outside Porch Light
2 (two) 10 lb. Propane Tanks
Pre-wired for Solar
Fire Extinguisher
20 Gallon Fresh Water Tank
Safety Exit
Roof Vent
Insulated Side Walls & Roof
Rugged Vinyl Side Liner
Aluminum Exterior Sides & One Piece Roof

Options we added:

Compressor 130 Liter Refrigerator/Freezer (AC/DC)
Truma Combi Forced Air Furnace/Hot Water Heater w/ Digital Thermostat
Flush Mount Glass Top Appliances (sink & stove upgrade)
Self-Contained (Inside Cassette Toilet, Inside & Outside Hot Water Showers)
Power Roof Vent Fan (Fan-Tastic Vent Fan)
Extra Roof Vent
8’ Fiamma Side Awning w/ Side Awning Light
160 Watt Solar Panel w/ Charge Controller (Roof Mounted)
LED Exterior Lighting Package
Thermal Pack (good for both hot & cold weather)
2nd Deep Cycle Battery (dual battery setup)
Exterior Gas Strut Roof Lift Assists
Silver Spur Complete Package – “Both Interior & Exterior”

DIMENSION DIAGRAM:
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Winterizing the FWC Hawk with Truma Combi per Four Wheel Campers Instructions:

Note: Total time to winterize the camper minus adding any optional antifreeze is about 15 minutes. EASY!


Winterizing the Hot Water / Exterior Shower / Interior Shower / Cassette Toilet:

To reduce the possibility of fractures and splits in the system's water tanks, lines, and water pumps in climates where
the temperature is below freezing (32 degrees F; 0 degrees C), it is recommended that as much water as possible be drained from the system. You could also add a mixture of water and non-toxic antifreeze to the camper's water system.

CAUTION: Be sure to release the water pressure in the hot water tank before draining the system.

Step 1:


Drain the 20 Gallon Freshwater Tank and Drain Line.

The 20 Gallon Fresh water Reservoir is usually located under the camper's front seat area (near the front wall of the camper), and the exterior drain valve is located on the exterior wall of the camper (outside).

To drain the 20 gallon fresh water tank, make sure your truck is parked level.
Leave the "electric water pump" in the OFF position.
Open the hot and cold water valves on the sink faucet and leave them open.

Next, open (twist) the exterior drain valve on the rear wall of the camper and leave it open until the 20 gallon fresh water tank is drained
and water stops coming out. If your 20 gallon water tank is full, the draining process might take quite a while.

After the main water tank is empty, leave the small 20 gallon tank drain cock on the outside of the camper "OPEN".

Step 2:

Hook up the Inside Shower hose & wand (if equipped), turn it on and leave it open for the moment (with the electric water pump in the "OFF position").

Step 3:

Open the Low Water drain valve inside the cabinets (in-line valve on the water lines inside the cabinet).

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Leave it open.

At this point, you should be able to hear the water draining out of the Truma furnace, and flowing down into the plastic 20 gallon fresh water tank.

The water in the hot water tank should slowly drain down & out into your 20 gallon fresh water tank, as long as the fresh water tank is already empty.
As the hot water heater tank starts to drain, you will probably also notice water start to drain out of the 20 gallon main water tank drain cock located on the outside of the camper.

Step 4:

Close the "Inside Shower Valve" and disconnect the inside shower wand, and stow it away.

Next, Drain the Water Pump.

Run the electric Water Pump for approximately 15 to 20 seconds, or as long as water is flowing out from the sink faucet, with both the hot & cold water at the kitchen sink valves opened. This should help to remove as much remaining water from the system as possible.

Turn the electric water pump "OFF", and leave both the hot & cold faucets on the sink "OPEN" position so that any excess water that could potentially freeze will have room for expansion (instead of cracking a water line or fittings).

Step 6:

Add Non-Toxic Antifreeze (optional).
If you are going to add Non-toxic RV Antifreeze to your camper water system for possible freezing water temperatures, you will need to add the correct amount of properly prepared "non-toxic" RV Antifreeze and water solution to back into your 20 gallon fresh water tank by pouring it into the fresh water filler port located on the outside of the camper. See antifreeze manufacturer's Water / Antifreeze mixture recommendations. Also check your Truma Owner's Manual to make sure this step is OK as well. Once you have a few gallons of properly mixed water/anti-freeze in the fresh water holding tank, turn on your electric water pump. Open the cold water valve at your sink faucet and run until you can see some of the antifreeze/water mixture flow from the sink faucets. Close the sink faucets. Next, operating just one shower fixture at a time, hook up both the inside shower wand & outside shower wand (if equipped) and turn on the electric water pump. Open the cold water valve, and run for a few moments until you can see some of the anti-freeze mixture come out. Close both shower water valves and disconnect the shower wand. Once disconnected, drain the shower wand & shower hose before storing it away. Drain the kitchen sink (if needed) and replace the cap on the sink's gray water spout (exterior of camper).

Once you have drained the hot water heater, drained the 20 gallon fresh water tank, introduced the non-toxic RV antifreeze, then go back through and open your sink faucets are open, open the shower valves, open the hot water tank valve inside the cabinets. Open the low water valve inside the cabinets, and open the plastic drain cock on the rear wall of the camper. This will allow any possible trapped water a place to move freely (instead of expanding outward and possibly cracking a water line) if it were to freeze.

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Here's a video on winterizing the Truma Combi


DE-WINTERIZING THE CAMPER:

1. Close the low water drain on the Truma hot water heater.

2. Fill the fresh water tank completely.

3. Open the faucet on both hot and cold.

4. Turn the water pump on and let it run until it clears all the air out of the lines.

5. Turn the faucet off.

6. Connect shower hose head and open the valve to both hot and cold.

7. Let it run until all the air is out of the lines.

8. Repeat in both inside and outside shower locations.

*Water pump should turn off when it reaches pressure. If it continues to run then there may be air in the lines. Expel air in system using city water connection (ensure use of water a Water Pressure Regulator like Camco P/N 40055).



 
Dave, I can't wait to see this build in person. You checked the option boxes in almost the exact way I would have, so this will be an easy-to-digest example to show the Mrs. should we ever decide to part with the Van.
 
I didn't know that the flatbed could be had with an extended bed. Interesting. Why did you choose to go with flush mount sink and stove options?
 
I didn't know that the flatbed could be had with an extended bed. Interesting. Why did you choose to go with flush mount sink and stove options?

One, the quality of these Dometic/SMEV type appliances is much better than the American RV industry standard Atwood type and two, the flush mount adds utility as these countertop spaces are flat when the appliances are not in use.

The extended bed option (king size bed option) is like a lot of things with FWC - if you ask they can usually do it.
 
Our camper is due to be completed at FWC on 8/9. It should be at AT in Prescott by 8/12 for flatbed and outfitting.

Fingers crossed for completion in time for Mountain Rendezvous.
 
Looking at systems, I'm excited to have 160 watts of solar on the roof and two deep cycle house batteries (more on that later) as well as a DLS-30/IQ4 power converter, a great smart charger designed for AGM batteries.

It features an internal IQ Smart Charge Controller which automatically provides three-stage battery charging for safer charging and longer life for the system's batteries and converts nominal 120 AC voltage to 13.4 DC voltage for both DC load operation and 12V battery charging.

As a power supply, the unit's tightly controlled regulation allows the user to operate a nominal 12VDC load up to 30 amps (400 watts). As a battery charger, the unit will maintain the battery, delivering its full-rated current when the battery capacity falls sufficiently low. The voltage is set to deliver its maximum current for the necessary period of time to minimize undue stress to the battery caused by heating of the cells. This helps to ensure the longest possible life of the battery. Over time, as the battery nears its full capacity, the DLS-30 will automatically drop the current, providing a float-charge to the battery to prevent self-discharge of the cells.

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Dave, I have the larger DLS-55 in my rig and it's great.

One question, though: Is yours a model with an internal IQ smart charger? The version I have is the DLS-55 with the IQ4 plugged in externally via the RJ14 (phone jack) style connector. Not that I'd change at this point, but I'd have preferred not to have the external IQ4 dongle...

One other thing to check on yours once you're up and running: My DLS-55 has no "soft start" (even with the IQ4) - when you connect it to shore power and the battery needs charging, it starts charging RIGHT AWAY, which means there's a massive inrush current (obviously larger on the 55A model vs. your 30A). The inrush is so great on mine that I was hearing that telltale snap of an arc every time I plugged in the charger. I was worried about damaging contacts, etc. so I called Iota and at their suggestion I've added an inline switch from Leviton. This lets me make the plug-in without arcing then switch things on. I fully expect that the switch contacts will eventually suffer some damage since I'm running close to the 15A (AC) rating for the switch, but at <$9, I'll treat it as a wear item and just keep a spare.
 
I know everyone is hungry for pics. It should look similar to this one recently posted on Facebook by AT, right? Are you going to have the boxes on the back like this? Sorry for our impatience, I'm sure it's worse for you though.

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