2018 Lexus GX build

Control pack location just above the winch but separated to have good visibility of the winch drum/line. Access to connect the wired winch controller and clutch engagement through the left lower access hole (drivers left). I used the Warn relocation kit from my old bumper, it required some cutting and drilling to work in the location.

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Pictured are the lower access holes, one cut and the other intact with the cut line marked. The spot light location is a bit pronounced but there is not much real estate to work with. No light bars for me.

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Custom made Delrin rollers for the fairlead. I ordered same diameter Delrin as the Warn steel roller, had it cut to length and line bored at a local machine shop. Bonus the assembly weight with the Delrin is 3.5 lbs less than the steel roller.

I cleaned up some welds and edges and shipped it all off for powder coating.

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Added a couple access holes to remove the two vertical roller pins. Allows servicing and access to the assembly mount bolts.
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The bumper arriving late then having to be remade has really been a PITA. As of the end of November I am in the beginning of a full blown remodel. All my appliances had to have a new home AKA my garage, which is also my temporary kitchen. Adult Tetris.

Not sure as to what I'm going to do next month when my gears and lockers come in. May end up moving the project to a friends shop as I will need to have access front and back.


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Parts are back from powder coating, time for assembly! Installed the blinkers, parking sensors, driving lights and winch. I reused the factory center parking sensor clips and outer sensor with double back tape. The double back tape is not what I really need so I ordered 3M VHB tape, the tape pictured is temporary. I used O rings to center the outboard parking sensors. I had to use plastic washers to space the Rigid driving lights, why they didn't get the layout for the most common light is beyond me. Lastly I attached the Safe Xtrac winch line with a constrictor knot.

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Access to the drum/rope and visibility are very good. No need to pop the hood and remove the radiator cover just to see the winch/line like the Ironman bumper.
 
In preparation for my ARB lockers and 4:88 Nitro gears I had to add the locker manifold and while adding that I might as well install an air tank. Bent up some 1/8” aluminum, located fastener holes and ready for powder coat. This is located in the spare tire area just above the rear bumper, it’ll feed the air chuck thats located along the left side of the bumper mount.

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Just found this, really like your attention to detail and all the great info. One question, I’m debating doing another build. I did a Cherokee a few years ago and am currently finishing up a 2020 Jeep JLUR. I’m not really happy with the noise level and comfort of the Jeep on long adventure trips. My wife and I have been driving Lexus LX’s for the last 25 years and have been very happy with them. So my question is what are your thoughts and reason on building a GX over an LX. I’ve been looking at a nice low mileage 2007 LX but would consider a GX.
 
Covered in Dust said:
Just found this, really like your attention to detail and all the great info. One question, I’m debating doing another build. I did a Cherokee a few years ago and am currently finishing up a 2020 Jeep JLUR. I’m not really happy with the noise level and comfort of the Jeep on long adventure trips. My wife and I have been driving Lexus LX’s for the last 25 years and have been very happy with them. So my question is what are your thoughts and reason on building a GX over an LX. I’ve been looking at a nice low mileage 2007 LX but would consider a GX.
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Thanks!

The GX is a bit narrower and shorter, has a similar payload, third row seats are easily removable for a payload gain, and has similar comfort levels to the LX. Cost of the GX is about 30% lower as well. I was considering the 200 LC or 570 but for the same year GX cost was prohibitive.
 
WashingtonTaco said:
Thanks!

The GX is a bit narrower and shorter, has a similar payload, third row seats are easily removable for a payload gain, and has similar comfort levels to the LX. Cost of the GX is about 30% lower as well. I was considering the 200 LC or 570 but for the same year GX cost was prohibitive.
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Thanks, we currently have a 2013 LX and the wife wants to put a new LX 600 on order. I haven’t done much/any research on bumper options on the newer LX’s with the integrated bumpers and didn’t even know it was an option to just cut away the plastic like on your GX. That’s why I was looking at getting an 06 or 07 the last years with removable bumpers. I guess I’ll do some digging and see if turning our 2013 into an over lander is an option.
 
Covered in Dust said:
Thanks, we currently have a 2013 LX and the wife wants to put a new LX 600 on order. I haven’t done much/any research on bumper options on the newer LX’s with the integrated bumpers and didn’t even know it was an option to just cut away the plastic like on your GX. That’s why I was looking at getting an 06 or 07 the last years with removable bumpers. I guess I’ll do some digging and see if turning our 2013 into an over lander is an option.
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Check out Dissent Offroad. There 200 series LC bumper is a beautiful design, fabrication is top notch! I wished they would make GX bumper. LFD offroad just bought a newer LX so I’m sure they will have something coming down the Pike. They built my rear bumper. Beautiful fabrication as well.
 
Completed the air system. The compressor is mounted in the aft storage area on a custom bracket that can be seen elsewhere in the thread. Air line runs through a factory grommet to the ARB manifold on to the ARB air tank then to Witts End air chuck. I’ll probably replace the brass fittings on the tank with stainless. I had corrosion issues with the Witts End pacifier in the brass air chuck. Witts End is sending a new pacifier made of Delrin. The brass tank fittings was all I could get locally. I bent up the brackets out of 1/8” aluminum and powder coated them. Very satisfied with the outcome. Now I’ll I need is the lockers and gears…. Slow boats from South Korea and Australia.

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Day to day I have the NOCO dual battery charger that keeps my AGM batteries topped up and happy. The house battery is always topped up by solar or the Redarc BCDC but the start battery on longer trips won’t see a full charge as the alternator wasn’t designed to charge a AGM battery at voltage required. Realizing this on my trip to Death Valley last year I needed to figure something out. A tradition solar controller was the first option. Victron was my first thought but they are not IP67 or better rated and under hood mounting location is where I wanted to install it. Renogy make a PWM solar controller that is IP67 rated fairly inexpensive but it’s a lot bigger than I would like.
Fortunately Redarc came out with the Solar Regulator last summer. It works similarly to a solar controller but is much smaller than the Renogy and IP67 rated. Hook up is simple, solar blanket attached via Anderson plug and Anderson plug and clamps on the battery terminals. It could be hard wired to the battery as well. Now on longer trips once in camp I can top off the AGM start battery.
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