You're 25 miles into nowhere and your vehicle decides to torch itself. What do?

I view vehicle fire extinguishers only as a means to aid in camping emergencies. I keep one near where I cook and sleep (in the flippac.) Unless you're driving a firetruck, in nearly all cases you are SOL with a vehicle fire.
Very true but I think I'll still keep a BC-type extinguisher for electrical fires, a not uncommon fire among modified trucks like ours.

I've seen several under hood vehicle fires on the trail, related to faulty electrical connections, that were extinguished successfully. A BC-type extinguisher is far less corrosive to vehicle electronic components than an ABC-type extinguisher due to the composition of the extinguishing agent.
 
A very interesting thread. On the subject of fire extinguishers, I stumbled across the web site of Mac The Fire Guy several years ago, and his writings convinced me to dump the usual powder type extinguishers and go for a couple of AFFF extinguishers. Haven't had a fire, so I've never had an opportunity to test one of them. If anyone is interested, info is here:

http://www.macthefireguy.com/fire-extinguisher-education-for-rvers
 
If you find yourself with an under hood fire it is also a good idea to pull the hood release once you are stopped safely (not necessarily popping the actual hood until you are ready with a means to extinguish). Hood release cables are prone to failure from fire at which point you then need a crow bar or some type of forceable entry to get the hood open.
As mentioned once you actually open then hood be ready for a potential flare up...
 
Very true but I think I'll still keep a BC-type extinguisher for electrical fires, a not uncommon fire among modified trucks like ours.

I agree, and just to be clear, by no means was I trying to imply we shouldn't try and fight or be prepared for vehicle fires. But, I think it's important for those who are preparing to have realistic expectations of their chances of success. A master electrical kill switch for the vehicle batteries would probably serve everyone much better than adding an additional X number of pounds of fire extinguishing agent IMO.
 
It'd be interesting to do a survey on vehicle fires. My guess would be 1) electrical, 2) fuel leaks and 3) other, such as a catalytic converter starting a grass fire under the vehicle. Risk reduction, primarily via PM, would seem to be the greatest way to prevent losing your vehicle. A good example of this is air cooled VWs, especially buses. They're known for burning up and the primary reason for that is fuel line failure. Old, cracked fuel lines and poorly or even unclamped lines fail and fuel pours unchecked onto the hot engine.

The take away, in my opinion anyways, should be to insure that your wiring and connectors are of the proper gauge and type and that connections are tight and properly grounded. Fuel lines should be in good condition and properly clamped and that there isn't grease and oil covering parts of your engine bay. Also note where you stop your vehicle.
 
OK finally watched the video. He stayed pretty damn calm. Good to realize at some point there is nothing you can do and just get as much gear out as you can.

I have tired to put out one vehicle fire. Brake hung up and caught fire on the drivers rear coming down a pass (Hwy2 after Stevens for the WA Folks). By the time they pulled over, I grabbed my extinguisher from the truck 100 or so feet away, and ran over, it was done. The stopping let the flames burst up. Everyone got out, a couple bags were grabbed from the back and the fire extinguishers were used on the trees and bushes around the car. I am quite certain that even a 20# extinguisher would have done nearly nothing.
 
It'd be interesting to do a survey on vehicle fires. My guess would be 1) electrical, 2) fuel leaks and 3) other, such as a catalytic converter starting a grass fire under the vehicle. Risk reduction, primarily via PM, would seem to be the greatest way to prevent losing your vehicle. A good example of this is air cooled VWs, especially buses. They're known for burning up and the primary reason for that is fuel line failure. Old, cracked fuel lines and poorly or even unclamped lines fail and fuel pours unchecked onto the hot engine.

The take away, in my opinion anyways, should be to insure that your wiring and connectors are of the proper gauge and type and that connections are tight and properly grounded. Fuel lines should be in good condition and properly clamped and that there isn't grease and oil covering parts of your engine bay. Also note where you stop your vehicle.

The only information I can find so far involves collisions.
https://www-esv.nhtsa.dot.gov/Proceedings/22/files/22ESV-000315.pdf
 
I don't think poor maintenance could have been the cause of the fire. This guy looked like he would have his maintenance act together. My guess is aftermarket parts or the poor installation thereof.

Three cheers for preventing a range fire though!

Cam
 
Agreed. I went through my phase where I wanted “systems” onboard for everything which eventually led me to a FWC. That led to spending too much time “inside” and dependence on all those complex systems.

These days I prefer modular solutions that I can use in any vehicle, and portability/lightweight. Being able to just open the rear hatch and toss everything out is about as good as it gets for surviving a fire scenario.

You were definitely carrying a whole house worth of systems on the back of the Beast! Submitting your "house" to a constant 7.5 earthquake could lead to trouble...;)
 
Based on the surroundings my thoughts on a possible cause was vegetation and hot engine components. If vegetation got wedged in an under-body location it could have become sufficiently hot enough to initiate a fire that could have caused other components to combust.

Always survey your vehicle when taking a pause...
 
Based on the surroundings my thoughts on a possible cause was vegetation and hot engine components. If vegetation got wedged in an under-body location it could have become sufficiently hot enough to initiate a fire that could have caused other components to combust.

Always survey your vehicle when taking a pause...

This is one reason I'm becoming a big fan of full belly pan skids. Less incidence of buildup/hangers on when there are no bars/nooks/crannies for vegetation etc to become lodged in.
 
Anyone remember, back in the day when catalytic converters first appeared, they had a habit of starting brush fires when parked in tall brush?
 
Anyone remember, back in the day when catalytic converters first appeared, they had a habit of starting brush fires when parked in tall brush?
Johnny Cash got in trouble for that. He burned 500 acres and killed a bunch of condors if I recall correctly.

I've seen 2 fires caused by dry leaves wadding in a vehicle. One was a TJ on a trail ride. Luckily is was lifted and we were able to get under and put out the fire by digging at leaves and using a fire extinguisher. The second was a riding lawn mower. My wife was cutting in the fall with a lot of dry leaves on the ground. It started smoking so she jumped off and ran and got me. Unfortunately she stopped 5-6 feet short of where the garden hose hose would reach. With 4 gallons of gas in the tank,it was a impressive fire that lasted about 90 minutes. Nothing left but metal. Tires and all plastic gone. On the up side the gas grows much greener in that spot now.
 
This is one reason I'm becoming a big fan of full belly pan skids. Less incidence of buildup/hangers on when there are no bars/nooks/crannies for vegetation etc to become lodged in.

One of the reasons I'm going with aluminum skids. I know. Steel is superior. Aluminum is very susceptible to galling. And the host of other valid reasons to go with steel.

But I'm not rock crawling. There's weight to consider too. I don't want a 7000lb Tacoma. As opposed to the FJ this time around I'm tracking the weight added. So I consider it as ablative armor for the inevitable, and hopefully few, "Oh S!" moments.
 
One of the reasons I'm going with aluminum skids. I know. Steel is superior. Aluminum is very susceptible to galling. And the host of other valid reasons to go with steel.

But I'm not rock crawling. There's weight to consider too. I don't want a 7000lb Tacoma. As opposed to the FJ this time around I'm tracking the weight added. So I consider it as ablative armor for the inevitable, and hopefully few, "Oh S!" moments.

I like my aluminum skids. Fortunately, I haven't bashed and dented them yet.
 
Conceivable that a spark from a steel skid plate grinding over a rock could start a fire. Fires are blamed on lawnmower blades causing a spark often enough that it must really happen.
Another potential for disaster that I don't plan on losing any sleep over.
 
In the long view, skid plates are wear parts. Aluminum is fine, it can be replaced easier and cheaper than a transmission;)
 
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