The Grey Mouser: Reboot

Front lift is Bilstien 5100s set at the 2.5” inch notch utilizing factory springs. Rear lift was accomplished with OME Dakar heavy springs. The air bags are retained along with the Daystar cradles. Bag pressure is set at 10 lbs just for bounce stops. Added the OME carrier bearing drop to the driveshaft. It was cheap and I was under there anyways.

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Front went from 35” to 38”. Rear went from 37 to 39.75 with bags deflated.

I’m pleased and the truck feels like mine finally.
 
Front lift is Bilstien 5100s set at the 2.5” inch notch utilizing factory springs. Rear lift was accomplished with OME Dakar heavy springs. The air bags are retained along with the Daystar cradles. Bag pressure is set at 10 lbs just for bounce stops. Added the OME carrier bearing drop to the driveshaft. It was cheap and I was under there anyways.

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Front went from 35” to 38”. Rear went from 37 to 39.75 with bags deflated.

I’m pleased and the truck feels like mine finally.

You are well on your way!
 
You are well on your way!
Yep, progress finally. Going to skip the armor for now and get Fafhrd’s onboard water system modified to fit in the back of the Mouse. Got a trip coming up in a month and we are going to leave the BaseCamper at home.
 
Yep, progress finally. Going to skip the armor for now and get Fafhrd’s onboard water system modified to fit in the back of the Mouse. Got a trip coming up in a month and we are going to leave the BaseCamper at home.

Have a link for the water system?
 
Have a link for the water system?

Nope. It’s a home brew system utilizing a 20 gal potable water tank, approximately 18” tall 8” wide 42” long. A little plumbing and a 12v water pump with built in pressure switch. Works great and has enough pressure to run a Triton propane instant hot water heater for showering.

I’ll take some photos as I rework it and post the details here.
 
Nope. It’s a home brew system utilizing a 20 gal potable water tank, approximately 18” tall 8” wide 42” long. A little plumbing and a 12v water pump with built in pressure switch. Works great and has enough pressure to run a Triton propane instant hot water heater for showering.

I’ll take some photos as I rework it and post the details here.

Thanks! Looking for good ideas for my new truck build this fall.
 
Scrittch, scrittch...at the mid section of turning the front wheels I’d get an occasional rub on the factory mudflaps. So I did what any cheap bastard would do, I took em off. Great, no more irritating nois...KERBANG!...another stone to the underside of the rockers. Argh.

Ok cheap bastard solution number 2...hole saw and Rotozip the bastards....
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That works. Removed the two “bulging” spots on the flaps. No more rubbing even when flexed, the rockers will stay cleaner and no more rock shots whilst traveling dirt roads. Now if I can just keep from tearing them off on a stump.
 
Here ya go @WashingtonTaco.

I’ve had this onboard water tank for a number of years. Originally it was my brother-in-laws, bouncing around in his Tundra, than I got it when he went full trailer. I modified it to my taste and to work in my Tundra, Fafhrd. It had a compartment for its own battery but I wouldn’t have room for that in the Tacoma.

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The tank itself is a 20 gal potable water tank, bought from an RV supplier I don’t remember. It measures 16” high, 8” deep and 40” long. Water fill on top to the left, with the right hand side having a vent on top and a threaded bung on bottom. I reused as much of the old enclosure’s carcass as possible cause I’m frugal.
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Since I have to deal with the depth of the cap’s tool boxes the water pump had to moved from the side to the top. I built a small enclosure to house the 2.5 GPM Shurflo 12v pump and centered it on top. The right hand side of the main box has 2” of empty space to allow for fitting and plumbing. Two nylon water supply hoses were splice together to feed the pump and another serves as the conduit from the outflow to the brass spigot.

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Power to the pump comes from an ATV pump sprayer lead with built in switch. This has the same 18 gauge waiting as that coming out of the pump. The pump has a built in pressure switch so it shuts itself off and can run dry with no damage.

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The tank sits to the rear of the bed and turnbuckles attached to the box and the factory tie downs keep it in place. The enclosure still sits below the height of the middle headrest so there no loss of rear view. The slit in the front of the enclosure is to have a sight bubble on the water level in the tank. Though it’s a 20 gal I normally fill it a gallon or so shy.

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I worked the power lead down the rail cleats back to the onboard 12v socket I have installed in the passenger side storage bin.

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Primary usage is for camp kitchen cleanup and for supplying water to our Triton on demand shower/water heater.

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20 gals will usually last the 2 of us around 5 days. I also use it for washing critters down after being skinned when we’re hunting out of the way somewhere.
 
Love this setup! Sounds like it's been in use for years in one form or another with no problem, but is there anything in the enclosure to isolate the tank and keep it from rubbing a hole through it? Or is it a snug enough fit that it's not a problem?
 
Snug fit. It’s been in service since ‘07 and when I pulled the tank out to rebuild this there was no wear signs on the tank. I find people over engineer stuff too much sometimes.
 
For reference, the stance of the truck is with the OME Heavy Dakar’s and 15lbs in the airbags. Truck is fully loaded for a 5 day run. The tent weighs in at 143#, water tank with 19 gals weighs in approximately at 180#, sundry goods probably 100# give or take and the cap itself weighs in at 400#. Approximate total of near 750#. Truck rides and handles nicely. I’m very happy with the current suspension set up.
 
As you can probably tell since I’m posting here at this time I am not at ARV. Work conflicted with my desires and I got stuck running the plant and doing quarterly inventories while the boss was off. Got finished up around noon today and felt like being creative so I started on this project...

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The garage smells like plywood, pine and grey elm.
 
Progressing along in fits and starts...

Box and drawers fabbed up and test fitted.
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Staining, spar guard and bed lining complete.
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Now it’s on to the top cover and deciding on what hardware to go with and how simple or complicated to make the drawer closures and pulls.
 
Storage drawers done, I decided to use reject 3/4 poplar glue up panels from work for the top. They were free and would give a stouter surface for the top than plywood. I also mounted tie down rings along each flank of the box.

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And than I finally got it all completed today.

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They look good, work good and swallow a lot of gear. Not sure if I’m convinced that a storage box like this is worth the extra weight but I’ll give it a chance. Total cost...hmmm...

Plywood..$15,00
Lumber...Free. Work rejects.
Plastic stock....Free, Cast offs from older projects at work
Bedliner...$24.00 for 2 rattle cans.
Latches...$29.00 from Amazon
Hardware...$8.00 there abouts
Carpet...$15.00

So about $91.00 for the whole thing. Time will tell what tweaks will be needed or if I ditch it and go back to a containerized system.
 
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