Otto - The Tundra

Out exploring, still a fair bit of snow to be found. Didn't go too far into is being solo and now feeling like shovel and winch fest.
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Need to fix and put chainsaw in truck....
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But we found a great camp spot, right on the convergence of two creeks. And saw a total of two trucks. Just lovely.
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I am man child.

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Debated doing an exhaust, but grown up me like quiet on freeways, mornings etc. Might be a tad loud, but it gives me the loud exhaust when wanted.... Nice units from ECS, all stainless, vacuum actuated to avoid electric stepper motor issues.
 
Yes exhaust is on my fall mod list. Mostly to rid myself of the low hanging resonator that is super fugly hanging below the rear bumper.

The on demand loud will be fun.

Yeah that resonator was on my to remove list on the 4r. It's still there o_O

Gotta get caught up on work before I can hack on the truck.
 
Cut outs went easy. Luckily there was a bolt on flange 4" from one, and 18" or so from the other. Made it WAY easier to get them slipped into place.

Marked and cut.
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Grind the hanger off and weld onto the cutout. Forget the shield gas.... on stainless.....
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Hit with black paint since your mig is really set up for mild steel.
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Tucked in, no its not as close as it looks to the DS.
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Wires run along the brake line, but all vac lines are mostly tucked under the factory cover.
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Drive soon :D
 
Surprised you left the Tundra parked at a trailhead, did the 4R die for good?
Real busy trailhead.... But yeah, not always ideal.

4R Is still parked in the driveway. I have not wanted to deal with cleaning it up yet honestly. I start it from time to time, but the battery is toast (even tho its on a trickle charger) and one of the door seals must have leaked last winter so its a bit funky inside.
 
FINALLY got around to the body mount chop. I think this kit has been sitting here for 10-11 months??

cut
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Weld. It was hard to get all the point off, so I have a bit of porosity in the welds. No biggie, nothing structural really.
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Paint.
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Then took a blow torch to the mud flap, bent it back to the new shape, and drilled and tapped the BMC plate. May get some pan had allen screws if it still rubs on the bolt head.
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Real boring update. But needed preventative stuff. Pulled all the little body plugs, there are a lot, 8 per side, in the rockers out and sprayed fluid film into the cavity. Also hit all the pinch weld and the little drain holes in there. Unfortunately there must be some connection/hole to the inside under the rocker/kick trims, I can smell it inside, but the smell is going away pretty quick. Need to pressure wash inside the wheel wells and hit those before ski season still.


 
Real boring update. But needed preventative stuff. Pulled all the little body plugs, there are a lot, 8 per side, in the rockers out and sprayed fluid film into the cavity. Also hit all the pinch weld and the little drain holes in there. Unfortunately there must be some connection/hole to the inside under the rocker/kick trims, I can smell it inside, but the smell is going away pretty quick. Need to pressure wash inside the wheel wells and hit those before ski season still.


I should do the same
 
https://pilotshq.com/products/cor-ban-35-corrosion-preventive-compound

This is what I used. Early October the chassis will get a full wash (best I can do anyway) and second year application. I'm not so concerned with the body panels as I am with the frame. Saving grace is the GX is built in Japan and not the US or Mexico and won't have a Dana sourced frame.

I'm picking up a 2006 4runner. Couldn't pass it up. What do you recommend for the rust that all Toyota frames get and this will undoubtedly have?
 
I'm picking up a 2006 4runner. Couldn't pass it up. What do you recommend for the rust that all Toyota frames get and this will undoubtedly have?

Clean, remove corrosion and paint the frame with automotive frame paint, I've used Eastons and POR 15 on my 2000 Taco. Then apply a corrosion inhibiting compound like the above linked.

We use Cor-Ban in the aviation world and airplanes experience harsh conditions from deicing fluid (ethylene glycol), severe weather conditions, high UV exposure, human waste from the lavatory systems, foods such as Coke and coffee. almost any CIC or fluid film would be better than nothing.

Good luck with your project.
 
https://pilotshq.com/products/cor-ban-35-corrosion-preventive-compound

This is what I used. Early October the chassis will get a full wash (best I can do anyway) and second year application. I'm not so concerned with the body panels as I am with the frame. Saving grace is the GX is built in Japan and not the US or Mexico and won't have a Dana sourced frame.
Yes, I will do the wheel wells I shot all the areas between the frame and Sliders already. Those are the rub points there. My frame is only boxed in areas, in theory that should help crap a little less gunk.
 
Not many pictures underneath, but the trailer harness reverse and ground were tapped into. Heat shrink glue connectors, and retaped the factory split loom. Toyota fully wrapped it, nice to see in a high spray area. Weather packs were added so bumper could easily be removed if needed.

Cut hole.
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Wiring
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Simple trick, use foam brush for the cut metal edge, just spray your paint onto the brush, a good soak, then go around the inside with the brush. Simple and easy
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Done. These are flood/scene lights, so not a ton of throw, but nice to have a little more back there.
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