Northern Tool Klutch Compressor

Thanks for the continued analysis.
One question: how do you know the wire coming from the battery clamps is 6 gauge? I would guess that it's no more than 12 gauge. Mine doesn't say and I'm thinking of upgrading it so that I can make it longer...
Thanks.

I was just eyeing it and taking a stab in the dark, which was probably the wrong way to go. I just went and dismantled the negative clamp to put a pair of calipers on the wire. Turns out it's probably 10 gauge (measured .103 in), making the interior connection between the breaker and the relay probably 12. Updated the above post.
 
Thanks Gallowbraid!
I'm going to see about buying about 15 ft of 8 ga wire so that I can reach everything I need to with my rig.
 
@Twin Magnolias I finally got a 1/4 NPT fitting on the compressor. After taking apart the handle portion of the compressor with it's three different parts I took them over to a machine shop in Cleveland. After looking at the parts they decided the easiest thing to do would be to take the square adapter that threads directly into the cylinder head, machine off the current threading and then tap it for 1/4 NPT. $20 later I was in business!


Stock setup:

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Square adapter after having the flange with the stock threading machined off and then tapping it for 1/4 NPT.

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Added a quick connect that supports all three industry standard connections.

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Added thread sealing tape to all the threading as I put it back together, tightened it down and there's no leaks!

Now I need to start researching pressure regulators or some sort of relief valve as the compressor doesn't have one built in. It will continue to pump out air until something fails. I would hope the weakest link would be the hose, but damage to the cylinder or connecting rod are certainly possible.
 
Looks identical. If we could find the Chinese factory turning them out we could probably pick them up for $40. :D

Group buy??
I just went on Alibaba and found several companies that make similar products but you have to buy 50 to 1000 units...
 
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So I've decided to hard wire this thing into the Sequoia. There's a storage compartment on the drivers side in the very back of the vehicle that looks like it will work for holding it with some small modifications. This will keep it out of the way, and with the poor design of the filtration system on this compressor, it will keep it out from underneath the hood and the elements. I'm still mulling over the plumbing options for this thing, but here's what I've come up with for the wiring:

compressor-wire.jpg


I'll gauge the wire appropriately for the length of runs I need to pull, so I'll sort that out later. I like this layout because it gives complete control over the compressor. In order for it to run three things must be in place:

1. The vehicle must be on as power to the relay will originate from a power source switched by the ignition being in the on position.
2. A switch on the dash will need to be toggled on, this way I can kill the compressor manually if I don't want it to turn on during grocery runs or every day use.
3. The pressure will need to drop below a certain PSI for the pressure switch to activate.

Since the compressor is rated at 150 psi I'm going to hopefully maximize it's life by staying below that threshold. I'm sourcing a pressure switch that will turn on at 90 psi and off at 115 psi. I'll be removing the built in wiring that I pictured in the posts above when I opened up the compressor and using this circuit to power the unit. Less components equals less things to break/troubleshoot.

Now to continue researching the air lines, tank, manifold, etc....
 
Now I need to start researching pressure regulators or some sort of relief valve as the compressor doesn't have one built in. It will continue to pump out air until something fails. I would hope the weakest link would be the hose, but damage to the cylinder or connecting rod are certainly possible.

That is the reason for the male connector attached on the compressor. Allows it to freeflow while running so you don't overpressurize anything. All portable compressors are made that way.
 
Which male connector are you referring to?
The original hose connector on the compressor side, coming out of the handle. Since you modified the connector to be a female socket, it will now build pressure instantly, if the free flowing hose is disconnected..
 
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Maybe you could also plumb in a 1 or 2 gallon pressure tank off the compressor and run the pressure switch off of that??
 
I realized that the compressor, as it comes from the factory, is too short to reach the rear bumper of my F-350 cc, lwb. Specifically, I could not reach the Air Lift air bag fittings that are above my rear license plate. I figured that since I was going to replace the wires going from the compressor to the battery clamps I would also upgrade the wire gauge at the same time.

I ended up buying some nice 8 ga. Dual speaker wire

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016NKDX3Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Compared to the original wire it is a nice upgrade.

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I ended up just using about half of the roll I bought. If anyone wants the other half pm me and I'll mail it to you! Looking for some good Karma!
 
Long overdue update. Never did hard wire the compressor into the Sequoia, probably best since I traded it for a Jeep and then traded that for an F250. :D

What I did do was purchase a length of air hose and an open flow air chuck like this one:

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With this there's no pressure build up when the compressor is running and not connected to anything.

The compressor has worked great for the last 2 1/2 years. I'd say on average I've used it 3 or 4 times a month during that time. Glad I kept it portable since I can't seem to decide on a vehicle to keep.
 
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