New shoes. Appear to have the same clearance off the upper control arms as stock tire size. At full right lock in reverse the passenger side tire was just touching the wheel well liner. A few seconds with a heat gun and I was able to push the edge of the liner back an inch so there's plenty of clearance now.
Did a little messing around with a jack this morning to check clearances. I suspected that at full droop the tire might make contact with the upper control arm. Things were very, very close:
I'm not a fan of wheel spacers, but decided that I'd like to have the extra 1/4" of space a slip on spacer would give. From what I can find the general consensus is that if you can still get 7 full turns of engagement out of your lug nuts there's no concern with this small of a spacer. After adding the 1/4 inch spacer I was able to get 9 full turns out of the lugs. Will running wheel spacers cause the truck to explode and the universe to end? I guess we'll see.
The clearance at full droop after adding the spacer was much better:
A quick run around several local back roads revealed no odd vibrations or shakes. Nothing is rubbing on the well liners or mud flaps. The Cooper Strongholds ride very smooth with just a slightly higher amount of road noise over the Uniroyal street tires that came on the truck.
Began the war against chrome today. Found a set of body color matched mirror caps on the ol' interwebs and they arrived via UPS this afternoon. Several YouTube videos and multiple forum posts indicated that swapping the mirror caps was a straightforward process with a 50/50 chance of breaking the mirror glass. I was extra careful, but ended up cracking the passenger mirror (which is apparently more prone to breaking) while pulling the glass. I really should have done some investigation into the cost of replacement glass prior to diving in. Dodge wants almost $400 due to the blind spot / cross traffic / heated / auto-dimming capabilities in the mirror...even though that just amounts to the glass being backed with a heating element and covered in the electrochromic gel for the dimming. Not sure either of those things is really that expensive these days. A quick Ebay search yielded an OEM replacement for just over $100. Does that count as buy once, cry once?
Two less pieces of chrome:
The membrane containing the electrochromic gel makes cool bubbles when it breaks:
Wires for all the functions of the glass on the drivers side: