DE VII - Big Skies Trip Report
- Thread starter Scott B.
- Start date
Hun
Adventurist
Day 5 Last Stand in "Last Best Place"
6/22 Thursday
The sun had us up by 5 am and then disappeared behind clouds to give us a chilly morning. A quick bowl of oatmeal, packed up camp and we were off to Wyoming. We headed north on SR 85, crossed I-90 and picked up SR 24 in Belle Fourche to head west into Wyoming. Our first exploration of the day was Devil's Tower in northeast Wyoming.
The rock tower, the largest of its kind in the world, and rising up from the plains surrounding it is made up of 5, 6, and 7 sided columns, some 600 feet in length and as much as 10 feet in diameter.
We hiked around the tower enjoying the changing terrain from Ponderosa pine forest to overlooks of vast plains dotted with cattle.
This rock tower is considered sacred ground by native Americans and rock climbing is curtailed the month of June in honor of sacred worship. President Theodore Roosevelt proclaimed this area a national monument in 1906, the first in the country. After our hike we headed back east on SR 24 to Hulett and found a much better-than-expected lunch at Red Rock Cafe. Departing Hulett, a town inhabited by 385 residents, we headed north on 112 to pick up SR 212 in Montana. We drove west into Crow Indian Reservation to the Little Bighorn Battlefield, named a National Monument. This is where Custer's 200+ men were mightily defeated by several thousand 'hostile' Sioux and Cheyenne Indians in 1876. The Indians were deemed hostile by the US government for refusing to give up their nomadic lifestyle and succumb to reservation life. Custer's entire 7th Calvary unit was overrun and died at the hands of the Indians on the hill named Last Stand which was the Native Americans' last great attempt to preserve their way of life. Also on the site is a national cemetery with thousands of cemetery stones dotting the hillside.
A tribute to the Indians was added recently in 2003 to honor Sitting Bull, a great Lakota leader and the Indians from 5 tribes that gave their lives fighting to protect their lifestyle.
On site with us was a television crew filming an episode for Mysteries of Museums for the Travel Channel. It's sure to be a good episode to take in. From Custer's battlefield, now renamed Little Bighorn Battlefield, we drove north to Hardin to camp for the night. The town was bustling with activities for the annual reenactment of the Little Bighorn Battle. In town we happened upon a barbecue restaurant, Big Horn BBQ Boys, which rivaled any Texas barbecue we've had. At camp, we got in out of the gusty wind and called it a day. (51568, 300 miles)
6/22 Thursday
The sun had us up by 5 am and then disappeared behind clouds to give us a chilly morning. A quick bowl of oatmeal, packed up camp and we were off to Wyoming. We headed north on SR 85, crossed I-90 and picked up SR 24 in Belle Fourche to head west into Wyoming. Our first exploration of the day was Devil's Tower in northeast Wyoming.
The rock tower, the largest of its kind in the world, and rising up from the plains surrounding it is made up of 5, 6, and 7 sided columns, some 600 feet in length and as much as 10 feet in diameter.
We hiked around the tower enjoying the changing terrain from Ponderosa pine forest to overlooks of vast plains dotted with cattle.
This rock tower is considered sacred ground by native Americans and rock climbing is curtailed the month of June in honor of sacred worship. President Theodore Roosevelt proclaimed this area a national monument in 1906, the first in the country. After our hike we headed back east on SR 24 to Hulett and found a much better-than-expected lunch at Red Rock Cafe. Departing Hulett, a town inhabited by 385 residents, we headed north on 112 to pick up SR 212 in Montana. We drove west into Crow Indian Reservation to the Little Bighorn Battlefield, named a National Monument. This is where Custer's 200+ men were mightily defeated by several thousand 'hostile' Sioux and Cheyenne Indians in 1876. The Indians were deemed hostile by the US government for refusing to give up their nomadic lifestyle and succumb to reservation life. Custer's entire 7th Calvary unit was overrun and died at the hands of the Indians on the hill named Last Stand which was the Native Americans' last great attempt to preserve their way of life. Also on the site is a national cemetery with thousands of cemetery stones dotting the hillside.
A tribute to the Indians was added recently in 2003 to honor Sitting Bull, a great Lakota leader and the Indians from 5 tribes that gave their lives fighting to protect their lifestyle.
On site with us was a television crew filming an episode for Mysteries of Museums for the Travel Channel. It's sure to be a good episode to take in. From Custer's battlefield, now renamed Little Bighorn Battlefield, we drove north to Hardin to camp for the night. The town was bustling with activities for the annual reenactment of the Little Bighorn Battle. In town we happened upon a barbecue restaurant, Big Horn BBQ Boys, which rivaled any Texas barbecue we've had. At camp, we got in out of the gusty wind and called it a day. (51568, 300 miles)
Hun
Adventurist
Very perceptive Andy! how's this - XQ (Expedition bbq) instead of DE!I always enjoy your trip reports and this one is no disappointment! Perhaps the Desert Expedition should be renamed the BBQ Expedition
-Andy
Scott B.
Adventurist
I always enjoy your trip reports and this one is no disappointment! Perhaps the Desert Expedition should be renamed the BBQ Expedition
-Andy
Funny you say that - I had the same thought somewhere in Montana. LOL
Hun
Adventurist
Day 6 - Meet up!
6/23 Friday
The wind had died down in the night and we awoke to a quiet stillness overlooking the plains. We decided on a civil breakfast and went back into town to Big Horn BBQ for a skillet scramble. Arriving before opening time, and trying to figure out if we should wait for the restaurant opening, the owner unlocked the doors and invited us in for coffee while he set up. The meal hit the spot, probably the best bacon I've ever had - thick slabs, Hickory-smoked, with eggs and a big 'ole bowl of grits. We left Hardin heading west on I-90 for a 3 hour drive to Butte. We passed the continental divide through Bear Pass and continued uphill arriving in Butte to meet G. arriving from L.A. to join us. We got provisions for a week, gassed up and left town on I-90 to find Delmoe Lake Road, route 222. The dirt road was fairly smooth other than a few washboards. We arrived at the lakeside campground and met up with our fellow expeditioners -- F. from Albuquerque and K. from Germantown, MD. And F. was leading a group - D. from Prescott AZ and G. from San Antonio TX - to Alaska and met up with us for a few days on their way north.
We gathered round the campfire, overlooking the lake and talked of past trips and plans for the next few days while Scott made his infamous camp pizza - onion, sausage and mushroom.
The air turned cool as the sun started to sink and we called it a night. (51845, just under 300 miles traversed)
6/23 Friday
The wind had died down in the night and we awoke to a quiet stillness overlooking the plains. We decided on a civil breakfast and went back into town to Big Horn BBQ for a skillet scramble. Arriving before opening time, and trying to figure out if we should wait for the restaurant opening, the owner unlocked the doors and invited us in for coffee while he set up. The meal hit the spot, probably the best bacon I've ever had - thick slabs, Hickory-smoked, with eggs and a big 'ole bowl of grits. We left Hardin heading west on I-90 for a 3 hour drive to Butte. We passed the continental divide through Bear Pass and continued uphill arriving in Butte to meet G. arriving from L.A. to join us. We got provisions for a week, gassed up and left town on I-90 to find Delmoe Lake Road, route 222. The dirt road was fairly smooth other than a few washboards. We arrived at the lakeside campground and met up with our fellow expeditioners -- F. from Albuquerque and K. from Germantown, MD. And F. was leading a group - D. from Prescott AZ and G. from San Antonio TX - to Alaska and met up with us for a few days on their way north.
We gathered round the campfire, overlooking the lake and talked of past trips and plans for the next few days while Scott made his infamous camp pizza - onion, sausage and mushroom.
The air turned cool as the sun started to sink and we called it a night. (51845, just under 300 miles traversed)
Hun
Adventurist
Day 7 - Passport, oh passport - where are you?
6/24 Saturday
We were greeted by cool, brisk air upon awakening, enough so that I started the day with long johns (got down to 34 degrees in the mountain air). While Scott prepared oatmeal for breakfast, we looked over the map books planning to spend the day in Beaverhead Deerlodge National Forest just east of Butte. Our caravan of 6 rigs headed out on Delmoe Lake Road (222) turning south on Whitetail Rd (173). We turned north climbing up a mountain to arrive at Ringing Rocks, an enormous pile of boulders that sing when struck with metal. Different size rocks produced different tones.
From Ringing Rocks we retraced our route back to Whitetail Road (173) making our way north through the mountains.
We crossed a stream and crossed paths with another group of Overlanders.
The terrain turned rocky the further north we went and the road got narrower and less passable.
A little further up the road 173 dead-ended at Hay Canyon Road. We evaluated the path, and considering our 3 rigs towing trailers decided to turn around for a more passable route. We retraced our steps south on 173 , make a quick jaunt on I-90 east to Whitehall where we exited the interstate highway and headed north on Whitetail Road (399) making our way towards Boulder. The road took us straight north through a wide valley, Whitetail Valley and when we got back into National Forest land we found a suitable campground in a quiet, open space overlooking the mountains.
While everyone set up camp, F. tore apart his truck looking for his elusive passport which he desperately needed for his journey through Canada to Alaska. About his second or third pass through all his belongings with still no passport, he started talking about driving back to New Mexico to retrieve it. Not wanting F. to have to leave and feeling certain the passport could be found, we meticulously went back through all his belongings... and Yes! There it was - under the q-tips in the medicine crate. Disaster averted, we settled in for grilled Swiss burgers and sautéed mushrooms. We grouped around a roaring campfire under the still fully-lit sky and shared stories about our adventures. Calling it a night, we headed to bed even before nightfall. (51909, 64 miles, nearly all dirt)
6/24 Saturday
We were greeted by cool, brisk air upon awakening, enough so that I started the day with long johns (got down to 34 degrees in the mountain air). While Scott prepared oatmeal for breakfast, we looked over the map books planning to spend the day in Beaverhead Deerlodge National Forest just east of Butte. Our caravan of 6 rigs headed out on Delmoe Lake Road (222) turning south on Whitetail Rd (173). We turned north climbing up a mountain to arrive at Ringing Rocks, an enormous pile of boulders that sing when struck with metal. Different size rocks produced different tones.
From Ringing Rocks we retraced our route back to Whitetail Road (173) making our way north through the mountains.
We crossed a stream and crossed paths with another group of Overlanders.
The terrain turned rocky the further north we went and the road got narrower and less passable.
A little further up the road 173 dead-ended at Hay Canyon Road. We evaluated the path, and considering our 3 rigs towing trailers decided to turn around for a more passable route. We retraced our steps south on 173 , make a quick jaunt on I-90 east to Whitehall where we exited the interstate highway and headed north on Whitetail Road (399) making our way towards Boulder. The road took us straight north through a wide valley, Whitetail Valley and when we got back into National Forest land we found a suitable campground in a quiet, open space overlooking the mountains.
While everyone set up camp, F. tore apart his truck looking for his elusive passport which he desperately needed for his journey through Canada to Alaska. About his second or third pass through all his belongings with still no passport, he started talking about driving back to New Mexico to retrieve it. Not wanting F. to have to leave and feeling certain the passport could be found, we meticulously went back through all his belongings... and Yes! There it was - under the q-tips in the medicine crate. Disaster averted, we settled in for grilled Swiss burgers and sautéed mushrooms. We grouped around a roaring campfire under the still fully-lit sky and shared stories about our adventures. Calling it a night, we headed to bed even before nightfall. (51909, 64 miles, nearly all dirt)
WashingtonTaco
Adventurist
Fantastic trip report! I need to retrace this trip, when I was young we went on a similar trip through the Black Hills and Wyoming!
Scott B.
Adventurist
I'd like to retrace it, too!
Hun
Adventurist
Day 8 - Rich, Rich Mining Ghosts
6/25 Sunday
We're starting to get used to brisk mornings, low 40s to upper 30s, upon awakening which called for hot oatmeal to start the day. We closed up camp and drove back out to Whitetail Rd northbound to Boulder where we jumped on I-15 westbound for Butte. Arriving in Butte from the east, we stopped to take in the view overlooking Berkeley Pit, a massive open pit mine which operated from 1955 to 1982 and is now the country's largest, most expensive superfund site.
The town of Butte is a National Historic Landmark and was deemed the "richest hill in Earth." Gold was discovered in the hills in the 1860s shortly after Montana became a territory of the US and by 1917, one million dollars of gold at $8 an ounce had been mined. But it was the copper that earned Butte the title of richest hill on Earth. Mines, still active today, have produced over 2 billion dollars worth of gold, silver, copper and zinc. It seemed only fitting that we stop in and explore the World Museum of Mining.
The museum was built on the site of the old Orphan Girl mine which operated until 1950. We strolled the streets of a mining town village, clambered up several stories on the mining head frame to view the ore chutes, and most impressive, studied the 3 dimensional modeling of the extensive underground mine beneath the entire town of Butte, some 10,000 miles altogether. And although we passed on the hour and a half tour of a small portion of the underground mine, we left with a sense of the importance of mining in the development of our nation.
With replenished provisions and full tanks of gas we left Butte westbound on I-90 headed for Garnet Ghost town. F. "cooked" lunch for us all, a choice of hamburgers or burritos, all manifold-cooked, and all delicious. At Drummond, we turned off the interstate, found dirt at Bear Gulch Road heading north into Garnet Mountain Range. The road turned into single lane with a fairly steep ascent up to Garnet Ghost Town. A short hike through a sparsely wooded field abloom with wildflowers brought us to the best preserved ghost town in the country, with over thirty log structures.
What made Garnet different from all the other mining towns? The miners brought their families, built log homes instead of shacks and repurposed structures as the need arose. We strolled into the town general store, an opulent 3 story hotel, the saloon, and several family homes including a honeymoon suite, a modest one room cabin for newlyweds until they built their new home.
Leaving town, we headed south back down the steep one lane descent on Bear Gulch Rd and turned east onto Deep Creek Road. Deep Creek drive was deep in a canyon along a creek bed with mining tailings spilling out of the mountains on both sides of the road. We came to a three way split in the road and set set up camp on a nearby grassy plain.
We snacked on crackers and cheese and chips and salsa and then topped it off with pizza from a previous night's bake.The evening campfire talk was lively as ever knowing that F., D., and G. would split off from our group in the morning to cross the Canadian border on their way to Alaska. (52044, 130 miles)
6/25 Sunday
We're starting to get used to brisk mornings, low 40s to upper 30s, upon awakening which called for hot oatmeal to start the day. We closed up camp and drove back out to Whitetail Rd northbound to Boulder where we jumped on I-15 westbound for Butte. Arriving in Butte from the east, we stopped to take in the view overlooking Berkeley Pit, a massive open pit mine which operated from 1955 to 1982 and is now the country's largest, most expensive superfund site.
The town of Butte is a National Historic Landmark and was deemed the "richest hill in Earth." Gold was discovered in the hills in the 1860s shortly after Montana became a territory of the US and by 1917, one million dollars of gold at $8 an ounce had been mined. But it was the copper that earned Butte the title of richest hill on Earth. Mines, still active today, have produced over 2 billion dollars worth of gold, silver, copper and zinc. It seemed only fitting that we stop in and explore the World Museum of Mining.
The museum was built on the site of the old Orphan Girl mine which operated until 1950. We strolled the streets of a mining town village, clambered up several stories on the mining head frame to view the ore chutes, and most impressive, studied the 3 dimensional modeling of the extensive underground mine beneath the entire town of Butte, some 10,000 miles altogether. And although we passed on the hour and a half tour of a small portion of the underground mine, we left with a sense of the importance of mining in the development of our nation.
With replenished provisions and full tanks of gas we left Butte westbound on I-90 headed for Garnet Ghost town. F. "cooked" lunch for us all, a choice of hamburgers or burritos, all manifold-cooked, and all delicious. At Drummond, we turned off the interstate, found dirt at Bear Gulch Road heading north into Garnet Mountain Range. The road turned into single lane with a fairly steep ascent up to Garnet Ghost Town. A short hike through a sparsely wooded field abloom with wildflowers brought us to the best preserved ghost town in the country, with over thirty log structures.
What made Garnet different from all the other mining towns? The miners brought their families, built log homes instead of shacks and repurposed structures as the need arose. We strolled into the town general store, an opulent 3 story hotel, the saloon, and several family homes including a honeymoon suite, a modest one room cabin for newlyweds until they built their new home.
Leaving town, we headed south back down the steep one lane descent on Bear Gulch Rd and turned east onto Deep Creek Road. Deep Creek drive was deep in a canyon along a creek bed with mining tailings spilling out of the mountains on both sides of the road. We came to a three way split in the road and set set up camp on a nearby grassy plain.
We snacked on crackers and cheese and chips and salsa and then topped it off with pizza from a previous night's bake.The evening campfire talk was lively as ever knowing that F., D., and G. would split off from our group in the morning to cross the Canadian border on their way to Alaska. (52044, 130 miles)
Hun
Adventurist
Day 9 - Rock Creek Road
6/26 Monday
We awoke to a cool, brisk morning, had scrambled eggs for breakfast and then it was hugs all around for F., D., and G.'s departure to find Alaska. We backtracked with G., and K. up Bear Gulch Road (single lane, steep incline) to Garnet Ghost Town and walked along the interpretative trail among the placer gold mines. Some mine shafts as deep as 100 feet still remain although they are now completely water-filled.
Halfway through the hike, we entered a spruce forest with trees towering some 80 to 100 feet high.
After the 20 minute hike which took us nearly an hour and one half, we headed west to find passage through the mountain. We were stopped by a locked gate atop Union Peak and decided it was a good place to break out the picnic baskets and have some lunch. (Scott has some great photos atop Union Peak.) Heading down another route looking for passage we were stopped yet again by a locked gate so we resorted to making our way to Highway 200 west to Bonner outside of Missoula. We fueled up in Bonner and found Interstate 90 eastbound for a short drive to find Rock Creek Road. Rock Creek Road follows Rock Creek, infamous for trout fishing, through a valley in Lolo National Forest. Rock Creek is a wide, shallow creek with fast moving water. It was dotted with fly fisherman along the 30 mile stretch we travelled.
We stopped for the night at Stoneycreek, camping on the edge of Rock Creek.
I whipped up a dish of black beans and rice with chicken while Scott changed the oil in the truck (it was time, afterall!). We took early showers and built the campfire to enjoy before the storm rolled in which chased us to bed early.
So with the sound of the nearby rushing creek, the thunder rolling in, and the rain on our teardrop we drifted off to sleep. (52138, nearly 100 miles)
6/26 Monday
We awoke to a cool, brisk morning, had scrambled eggs for breakfast and then it was hugs all around for F., D., and G.'s departure to find Alaska. We backtracked with G., and K. up Bear Gulch Road (single lane, steep incline) to Garnet Ghost Town and walked along the interpretative trail among the placer gold mines. Some mine shafts as deep as 100 feet still remain although they are now completely water-filled.
Halfway through the hike, we entered a spruce forest with trees towering some 80 to 100 feet high.
After the 20 minute hike which took us nearly an hour and one half, we headed west to find passage through the mountain. We were stopped by a locked gate atop Union Peak and decided it was a good place to break out the picnic baskets and have some lunch. (Scott has some great photos atop Union Peak.) Heading down another route looking for passage we were stopped yet again by a locked gate so we resorted to making our way to Highway 200 west to Bonner outside of Missoula. We fueled up in Bonner and found Interstate 90 eastbound for a short drive to find Rock Creek Road. Rock Creek Road follows Rock Creek, infamous for trout fishing, through a valley in Lolo National Forest. Rock Creek is a wide, shallow creek with fast moving water. It was dotted with fly fisherman along the 30 mile stretch we travelled.
We stopped for the night at Stoneycreek, camping on the edge of Rock Creek.
I whipped up a dish of black beans and rice with chicken while Scott changed the oil in the truck (it was time, afterall!). We took early showers and built the campfire to enjoy before the storm rolled in which chased us to bed early.
So with the sound of the nearby rushing creek, the thunder rolling in, and the rain on our teardrop we drifted off to sleep. (52138, nearly 100 miles)
jscusmcvet
Adventurist
Great trip report. Unbelievable scenery.
Maxcustody
Adventurist
What an adventure.............great pictures and report.