2008 Northstar MC600

Well I placed both the air-conditioner units side-by-side and they're exactly the same there is no difference whatsoever they have the same length of cord and they have the same specs for everything. The problem is Frigidaire labels some SKU numbers for one company And different SKU numbers for a different company. PITA.
 
Looking good, you may need a bigger truck if you want to tow the jeep??. if you remove the seat top next to the rear door you may find a 110V outlet for the A/C.=brian
 
Looking good, you may need a bigger truck if you want to tow the jeep??. if you remove the seat top next to the rear door you may find a 110V outlet for the A/C.=brian
Thanks Brian. We have no plans to tow the jeep. If I need the jeep I have a trailer suitable for dropping the camper onto and that's what we'll do. You are correct, there is an outlet available already for the AC. I emailed Northstar today and spoke to someone there about the AC window trim kit and the size of the AC they are installing. Assuming I get a solid answer on buying the trim kit, I am hoping to have this project wrapped up prior to the start of our vacation, August 17.

Also yesterday confirmed that the fridge works at least on shore power. Have not dug into the 12v operation or the propane operation yet.

Our Fantastic Fan is one direction only (blows out) and I was wondering if there is some nifty electrical trick to get it to reverse and blow air in when needed. I can buy another fan, but hoping to rig something if I can.
 
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^^^^Reverse the polarity on the leads for the fan, see if it blows the other way.

Be careful with the 12v 'fridge operation, mine will kill my batteries in a couple of hours (for whatever unknown reason, GM decided to wire the 12v hot pin on the trailer connector so that it stays hot with the ignition off).

I do run the 'fridge on 12v when driving, just have to remember to switch it as soon as I get to where I'm going.
 
^^^^Reverse the polarity on the leads for the fan, see if it blows the other way.

Be careful with the 12v 'fridge operation, mine will kill my batteries in a couple of hours (for whatever unknown reason, GM decided to wire the 12v hot pin on the trailer connector so that it stays hot with the ignition off).

I do run the 'fridge on 12v when driving, just have to remember to switch it as soon as I get to where I'm going.
Thanks for the tip on the fridge. I am wrestling with telling Ann that I want to yank the fridge, create more storage and tote the Indel B that we have instead. I think it is a better design, compressor driven and top opening, etc...
 
I found throwing the chairs,table,barbq,ect, seem to mess the inside in a hurry, that's why I got a small trailer to carry my extra camping gear. your is a 3 way refrig, did you try 110V it takes a while to cool down,
Just FYI=brian
 
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@brian90744 when you mounted your A/C did you make the trim pieces for the window? I am thinking I can make something nice out of wood and skip the expense of buying the trim from Northstar
 
Thanks for the tip on the fridge. I am wrestling with telling Ann that I want to yank the fridge, create more storage and tote the Indel B that we have instead. I think it is a better design, compressor driven and top opening, etc...

Long term, you can also look at front-opening compressor fridges. I have one of the TruckFridge models in my rig and I've found it to be just as power-thrifty as any of the other good chest-style ones. (And why not, it has the same Danfoss compressor.) Chest fridges are great where the shape makes sense and you have space to open the lid, but in some layouts a regular front-opening fridge works best. (But the 12v compressor ones work SOOOO much better than the old 3-ways...)
 
Long term, you can also look at front-opening compressor fridges. I have one of the TruckFridge models in my rig and I've found it to be just as power-thrifty as any of the other good chest-style ones. (And why not, it has the same Danfoss compressor.) Chest fridges are great where the shape makes sense and you have space to open the lid, but in some layouts a regular front-opening fridge works best. (But the 12v compressor ones work SOOOO much better than the old 3-ways...)
Space would be the issue for sure. This is something I am probably going to dig into more over the winter. For now I am going to work on getting the existing fridge up to 100%. Knowing that the system itself works, since it did on shore power, and that it takes a long time (relative to a compressor fridge) to cool down, I still need to see if it will work on propane and 12v.
 
Camper looks great! What model is it?
This a Northstar MC600. It is made for smaller and short bed pick ups. The company has been around for 60 years and has been very patient with my pestering phone calls...
I have been to Loews a couple times and looked for the window AC unit we need but the shelf is always empty.
 
Camper fits nice in it's new home...
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Looks like it belongs there!

I highly recommend taking the jacks off of the camper unless you are going to be removing the camper between trips. Even then, I'd consider it. I've seen pictures of people that have caught a jack on an obstacle...the damage it does to the camper isn't pretty.
 
Looks like it belongs there!

I highly recommend taking the jacks off of the camper unless you are going to be removing the camper between trips. Even then, I'd consider it. I've seen pictures of people that have caught a jack on an obstacle...the damage it does to the camper isn't pretty.
We plan on it. This was just a test fit. Looking things over I think we are going to have to go the tork lift route for tie downs. Also wonder about the Brophy style that uses the stake bed. Diggin into it right now.
 
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Looks like the only serious choice with this particular combination was the Tork Lift. Luckily Tweetys RV was having a sale so out the door, free shipping for $572. Dang it. Still a lot of money. The only other option I could see was fabbing my own. I could do it, just don't want to sink a whole day into that project. Part of getting out of the jeep and away from rough trails is so that I am not spending my free time on my back in the barn. Trying to live up to that.
Should have listened to @Maxcustody from the very beginning.
 
After some drama on the delivery of the Tork Lift tie downs... I have half the product. I do not think I will deal with Tweetys RV again. Poor communication. At least it is the front half. We are leaving next week on the first of several trips that together is some work and some vacation... With the front tie downs done, I can manage something for the back if I don't get them in time. Mounting was easy, the base piece bolts onto the spring hanger, using the spring mount bolt and a bolt set up they provide to make use of the hole in the hanger. All in all a very simple job.
I have to work this weekend, unexpectedly, but hope to get the camper mounted so I can get some test time in before we leave.

Terrible pics but you get the gist.
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Found time to mount the camper today and took it for a test spin... We are good to go. With the new Tork Lift mounts in front and the Happy Jac mounts in the rear, and the mat in the bed, we are good to go and had zero movement, even when heading out our driveway. Once on the road I could tell an immediate difference in handling and cornering thanks to the Timbren SES system. When mounting the camper I took measurements before and after. From ground to fender flare measured 36" before and 35" after. Truck sits level. To my eyes anyway. Very pleased.

Over the last week or so I have been working on a special frankenstien project with some old parts. Storage space in the camper is limited. I cannot get the fridge to work on battery or on propane. No worries, we have our Indel B that we bought a few years ago from Paul May at Equipt 1. It is not perfect but a decent piece of gear. A place for it to call home was needed. My brain started whirling and here we have it. Before you look at it I will explain what I did so far and will continue later with what is yet to come.
I took my old Big Daddy Off Road rear bumper and tire swing out. I cut off the mounting brackets. To the bumper, directly opposite the receiver hitch, I welded a 2" square tube and drilled the appropriate hole. This will slide into the factory receiver hitch on the Tundra. Next, directly under the apex of the "A" frame of the swing out, I welded a section of 2.5" square tube and drilled the appropriate hole. I had picked up a receiver hitch platform frame (needed a platform bolted to it) from the Tractor Supply clearance bin for $10. Next I cut, painted and mounted 3/4" plywood of the proper dimension to the frame.
When it was all ready I slid the bumper assembly into the Tundra's receiver hitch and secured it. Then I slipped the platform into the receiver I had welded to the "A". Placing the Indel B fridge on the platform, I determined placement of the Yeti Cooler tie down system I picked up on clearance from Southeast Overland a couple years ago, also for $10. Snugged the fridge down, plugged it in, and gave it a few test swings. What we have now is a place to carry the fridge, that swings out of the way when camping, allows use of the steps into the camper... and keeps the fridge up off the ground in an easily accessible spot. Pics:
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Next up for this project is to trim off the upright metal pieces on the swing out and fab up a removable table top that will secure facing the camper door when the swing out is open. This will provide a place for a Coleman stove and a cutting board.
Also as we are getting ready for our trip found that the Overland Solar portable panels slide comfortably right into the bed in the space next to the camper
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A few pics of the camper tie downs. All hardware is rated for at least 800 pounds. I am pleased with this set up. Super easy to secure. Camper does not budge even on our driveway.

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