OutdoorX4 Magazine Official Family Overlander Build Thread - 100 Series Land Cruiser

Thanks! Last night I got the awning mounts installed onto the roof rack, installed the ABS plastic sheet we had bought to use as a fairing for the front of the roof rack to eliminate wind noise, and strapped down our Engel MT-45 fridge to our TemboTusk fridge slide. I'll get pics up shortly.
 
Thanks everyone!

Yesterday, after returning from the 10th Lone Star Toyota Jamboree in Gilmer, Texas (which was a fantastic event BTW and had a chance to finally meet Woody of IH8MUD fame), I installed our Slee Dual Battery Tray and replaced the main battery with an Optima YellowTop. The second battery is an Optima RedTop that will be used to power the Engel MT-45 fridge/freezer, external lighting, and small electronic accessories.

Here are a few pics:

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Here's a shot of the Slee dual battery tray completed as well as the Optima YellowTop used to replace the main battery.

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Confused...the red top (starter battery) should be the starter battery and the yellow top (deep cycle) running aux functions, or do you know something I don't?
 
It's true the RedTop is a starter battery though I've always run the YellowTop as the main battery because it's heavy duty and provides the deep cycle/cranking power needed for powering my winch. It's never let me down as a primary battery as I had it in both a TJ Rubicon and diesel Grand Cherokee for almost six years each.

My dual battery setup now has the RedTop connected to the YellowTop via a Cole Hersee switch so I can draw from the RedTop, when needed, to start the truck in an event where the fridge has fully drawn power from the main power supply. The fridge is currently using the OEM 12V in the rear of the truck. Eventually I'll install a power inverter and have dedicated power for the fridge itself.
 
You will not want a power inverter for the fridge. It would be best to run a larger dedicated 12 volt wire to power the Ingel.
 
TemboTusk said:
You will not want a power inverter for the fridge. It would be best to run a larger dedicated 12 volt wire to power the Ingel.
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Yes.. I'm finding out that my factory hot 12v plug in truck isn't adequate for powering my arb, so I need to power my arb fridge separately, with the arb wiring loom.
 
As an example: I ran a fused 10 gauge size speaker wire from the battery to the rear of the my FJ-60 and into a dedicated marine grade receptacle. The speaker wire works well because it is very pliable and easy to route through the vehicle.
 
Yep, you're right Jerry. I was even looking at the manual that came with the fridge/freezer and it specifically states to not use an inverter. I like using the OEM 12V slot in the back of the truck but it's not a constant "hot" power source. I have to have the ignition turned halfway all the time to power the fridge/freezer with the 12V plug. Back when I had the National Luna fridge, I had a small motorcycle battery installed in the custom drawer you built me and plugged the fridge directly to the inlet that was part of that build. I suppose I could do that too and just swap out the inlet plug that's currently in the drawer with a standard 12V plug. What do y'all think?
 
OutdoorX4 said:
Yep, you're right Jerry. I was even looking at the manual that came with the fridge/freezer and it specifically states to not use an inverter. I like using the OEM 12V slot in the back of the truck but it's not a constant "hot" power source. I have to have the ignition turned halfway all the time to power the fridge/freezer with the 12V plug. Back when I had the National Luna fridge, I had a small motorcycle battery installed in the custom drawer you built me and plugged the fridge directly to the inlet that was part of that build. I suppose I could do that too and just swap out the inlet plug that's currently in the drawer with a standard 12V plug. What do y'all think?
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Frank, I sure that will work fine. In future, you may want to invest in a solar panel to supplement the battery when you are camped for more than one night. I'll show you the solar panel I use at Expo.
 
if you like the factory plug, you can just rewire that with a fused hot feed. Should be pretty simple

I would offer to help, but the cost of fuel to meet up might be a bit rough
 
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I'll look into doing the rewire as that makes a ton of sense. The 12V in the back of the truck has worked fantastic thus far but again, requires the key being in the half position in the ignition.

Jerry, I do have a 60-watt solar panel that I use to charge the battery. It's an Overland Solar version that I'm VERY happy with. :)
 
OutdoorX4 said:
I'll look into doing the rewire as that makes a ton of sense. The 12V in the back of the truck has worked fantastic thus far but again, requires the key being in the half position in the ignition.

Jerry, I do have a 60-watt solar panel that I use to charge the battery. It's an Overland Solar version that I'm VERY happy with. :)
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All you would really need to do is take the wires off the back of the socket and make sure the ends are securely covered so they can not short.(I would leave them alone so it can be put back to factory is ever needed.) Then run 2 new wires from power source (battery, fuse box, hand crank, windmill etc. . . ) Fuse it close to the source, you really only need the positive fused, but I recommend fusing both wires. There are tons of charts online to see what size wire, you just need the length of the run and how much power the fridge draws, then go a size or two bigger. It never hurts to have a little extra copper especially with items like the fridge that are sensitive to voltage drop. not knowing the length of your run a number 10 or 8 gauge wire is probably about where you want to be.
 
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