Renogy Solar 100 watt suitcase system

Andy

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Founding Member
With the demise of my rooftop solar panels in excessive winds I had to come up with a new answer for running my fridge when out (and the blender too). I also wanted a system I could use to power my fridge in case of a power outage, so I wanted it portable. I purchased this system on amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01

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Rifle mags for size comparison as they were laying around but not included :)

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Initial Impressions:

CON: It's big and heavy. The size was more than anticipated even though I had read the specs before purchasing. I need to find a place to mount it in the vehicle for trips because its too bulky to stow in the cab as I had planned. Right now I am thinking of making a spot under my RTT for it. It does come with a nice padded case to protect it, but it adds some bulk. (shown below packed in the included soft case with)

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PRO: All that weight is the result of sturdy construction. I have no doubt this will last for a long time. Another nice thing about the heft is it should be more stable in the wind.

CON: No manual is included in the effort to "go green". BS, they just don't include one to save the $5 to print it. Either way, the manual is available in PDF form on the website so I downloaded it and have a printed copy and saved on my phone.

PRO: A real company makes this, not some shadowy fly by night Chinese snow job. Lots of information is available if necessary and by all accounts they actually have real people who speak English on tech support. It even has a builders plate with specs on it, something rarely seen on the cheaper imports.

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CON: The battery leads are short. It must be set up near the vehicle, so you can not park in the shade and run out the solar. Easily fixed with some simple wiring.

PRO: The controller works great, with adjustable voltages for the different charging phases. It also has a voltage and current readout for the panel's output.

IN USE:

So far, I have just used it at home for testing because it still isn't hot enough to require the extra power on short trips. As it warms up I will be using it more. I set up my ARB fridge in the truck in the morning and filled it with appropriate things (beer, steak) and let it run for a few hours before hooking up the solar. Ambient temperature was around 80. With the panel aimed at the sun (about 3 hours before sunset) it was showing an output of 5.6 amps at 13.5 volts or 75 watts. 75% efficiency isn't bad, and I believe if I had it set up earlier in the day it would have been pushing more. Either way, after 3 hours or so it had fully topped off the battery in the truck. As I conduct further tests I will report back, but so far I am happy with the performance.

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I see alligator clips... :panic

Makes sure that those leads are FUSED!!!
 
I see alligator clips... :panic

Makes sure that those leads are FUSED!!!
I bought this same kit.. Dave are you saying we should run inline fuses from the alligator clips to the controller? I'm a newbie to solar, so sorry if this is a dumb question.

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I offed the alligator clips as soon as I got mine and subbed Anderson connectors that went to other Anderson connectors with short FUSED leads to the battery. Keep the unfused portion of the hot lead as short as possible.
 
Usually, you fuse to protect the wire. In other words, there is a maximum number of amps any particular gauge wire can safely carry, and you pick a fuse size that will blow before the wire exceeds that amount. There are charts available online that provide that information. 12 gauge wire gets a 20 amp fuse, 10 gauge gets a 30 amp, 8 gauge gets a 50 amp, and so on.

In this case, the specs say it has a built in charge controller rated at 10 amps, so a 10 amp fuse should be just fine.
 
I see alligator clips... :panic

Makes sure that those leads are FUSED!!!

The positive lead is fused before the clamp, had to check today to be certain. The clips will eventually get replaced but I'm not sure on how I want to do it yet.

It was putting out 6.1 amps today.

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I have used both Anderson and SAE connectors and found the SAE with #10 wire to be easiest for repeated connections. If using the SAE type make sure that on the end from the battery the hot wire is the shielded of the two.
 
Usually, you fuse to protect the wire. In other words, there is a maximum number of amps any particular gauge wire can safely carry, and you pick a fuse size that will blow before the wire exceeds that amount. There are charts available online that provide that information. 12 gauge wire gets a 20 amp fuse, 10 gauge gets a 30 amp, 8 gauge gets a 50 amp, and so on.

In this case, the specs say it has a built in charge controller rated at 10 amps, so a 10 amp fuse should be just fine.

I would definitely fuse it for more than 10A if the controller is rated for 10A. A good rule of thumb is to fuse a circuit for ~20% more than what you expect your legitimate load will be. In the case of an expected 10A max draw I wouldn't fuse the circuit for anything less than 12.5A, or more realistically 15A. This is in addition to verifying the ampacity of the wires you're planning on using and making sure the two line up. In this case, 14Ga wire would be the bare minimum as it is rated to 15A. Better would be to use 12Ga which is rated to 20A.
 
I am looking at upgrading my panel set up. @Andy do you have any further feedback on this set up? I am also wondering if anyone has experience with the foldable (fabric) or rollable panels and how they might compare to this type of portable system.
 
So far I have not used it very much, but that is because I have not done many longer duration or hot weather trips where the extra juice is necessary. I have run my fridge and LED lights all weekend in 100 degree day temperatures without getting below 50% on my battery.

The negatives on the Renogy Folding Panel are the bulk and that it is more fragile than a roll up or folding soft panel. I do have an older goal zero nomad 27 folding panel that stays in the truck with one of their charge controllers. That gets used more often because it is always in a storage cubby for quick use, but I'm guessing it is only pushing out 1-1.5 amps at best. The high wattage soft panels are very expensive and hard to aim for maximum performance.

If money was no issue I would have a fixed 30 watt panel roof mounted to trickle charge the batteries when sitting, then a 100 watt folding soft panel to set up when stationary. That would run $500 plus though.
 
Thanks Andy. I am liking your idea for a smaller more portable panel and then a more permanent mount... more research to do. Appreciate the input.
 
I have the same panel but use a midnite kid controller. The best "portable" panel I've used to date.

I use yellow Anderson connectors from the panel to the controller and red Anderson connectors to the battery. This eliminates all the guess work. I have mounted the midnite kid in an ammo can which has enough space for a midnite circuit breaker box.


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this is my second go around with Renogy's folding portable 100w suit case solar panel & Charge Controller. I used their product on my 1st trailer build & was quite pleased but your correct the folding portable panel was bulky in size & took up space. On my 2nd trailer build I wanted solar & looked at others but ended up back with Renogy again for the reliable service it has offered me in the past. I ordered there 100w Eclipse Monocrystalline Solar Panel Folding Suitcase w\o charge controller. I mount the Renogy 30amp Adventurer Charge Controller in the tongue box to keep it weatherized. I like the fact I can move my panel even being bulky in size to follow the sun to get required sunlight require, that the monocrystalline panels performance very well in low light environments. The added plus is the hard case that protects the panel in storage & travel, but again bulky in size.
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