Hypertech React Throttle Optimizer

Gallowbraid

Adventurist
The aftermarket industry has always been full of those snake oil products promising more power, more MPG, etc. Drop in turbo's for your air intake, throttle body spacers, hydrogen injection, the list goes on and on. Somewhere on this list, or at least close to it, has lived the Pedal Commander. You can't explore the dark corners of aftermarket add on posts on any of the Toyota themed boards without tripping over posts about this thing. Basically it's a microcontroller that intercepts the signal from your accelerator pedal, and then feeds a different signal to the ECM to affect fuel and air delivery. Many people claim "power gains" using this, but in reality you're simply altering how your vehicle reacts to you pressing the gas pedal.

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In the good old days there was a physical cable that ran from the pedal to the butterfly valve on the throttle body. I remember in my street truck days when many Ford F150 enthusiasts discovered that, due to play in the cable on their truck, the butterfly valve wasn't opening all the way when pressing the pedal to the floor. There was many a thread about "shimming" the connector at the pedal to "increase power". In fact all you were doing was causing the butterfly valve to open with less pressing of the pedal. If you did happen to cause the valve to open a little more than before you were pulling more air in causing the ECM to adjust. Seat of the pants dyno results were amazing according to strangers on the internet. I recall one person posting actual dyno numbers after doing this and claiming a gain of...ready for this...1 HP on average after a number of runs.

Fast forward to the drive by wire systems we have today and you get the pedal commander. We're electronically shimming the pedal now. I've always thought remapping the accelerator signal was an interesting idea, but not something I needed...until today. While browsing the ol' interweb I came across the Hypertech React Throttle Optimizer. This little gizmo claims to do the same thing the pedal commander does, but with some interesting twists. Three versions are available: Performance, Towing and Off Road. Oh, I like the sound of that last one. All three appear to be the same device just with different "throttle mapping" built in and the leds labeled differently. The performance one promises faster power delivery, the tow version promises improved power delivery when towing and the offroad better power delivery across various terrain.

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Here's why I'm interested. The Sequoia and it's brother/sister/non-gender specific sibling the Tundra have VERY touchy throttles in my experience. I've had this same message conveyed to me by multiple owners. I've taken to holding my right foot against the transmission hump and rolling my foot onto the accelerator from the side to control the throttle off road. Doable, but a bit fatiguing. Even during everyday driving hitting a bump in the road can cause your foot to kiss the pedal just enough to make the engine rev and the vehicle to pull forward hard. My wife often gives me stern looks when leaving a red light only to imitate the same activity when she's driving (this is still my fault). I'm curious if the signal processing this unit does could solve this and slow down the reaction time of the throttle. I've read this is exactly what the eco mode of the Pedal Commander does in an attempt to give you time to realize you shouldn't be pressing the gas that hard and back off a bit, thus saving fuel.

I'm not sure how the "off road" maps would work other than perhaps greatly retarding WOT and smoothing out the transition between the progressive signals that are sent to the ECM. Poor mans version of a different gear ratio without the benefit of different torque? The other intriguing part of this is Hypertech is promising the addition of development software that will allow end users to create their own throttle maps and share them. That appeals to the tinkerer in me. A recent software update also appears to allow this device to correct speedometer readings for vehicles running tires that aren't the stock size. Nice bonus.

Any thoughts out there? I'm thinking of giving this a shot from a reputable online retailer with a 30 day return policy. Can't hurt to give it a try...
 
I've been reading the 200 series Land Rover forum on MUD, and several folks there swear by the pedal commander for the reasons you site; touchy throttle. This option sounds like it could be more flexible.
 
Back in my turbo Buick days running down the quarter and blasting streetlights I ran Hypertech chips. They would custom flash chips for my particular set-up and modifications and the results were verified on the drag strip. They were a pretty upstanding company back in the day though I haven’t had any dealings with them since selling the Buick. Here’s hoping their reputation is still intact.
 
A couple days ago I pulled the trigger on this purchase and ordered up a Hypertech React from Jegs.com. With a coupon and free shipping it came in just under $300, or about the same as the Pedal Commander. It arrived via Fedex today and I installed it. Does it work? Well....stick around and find out.

First, unboxing. This is what you get:

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Opening the snazzy box reveals the controller and a magnetic vent attachment to hold it.

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Underneath those you'll find the wiring that goes inline between the throttle and the OEM connection, some zip ties, a double sided post card with instructions, velcro for mounting, a 6ft usb cable, the controller, the react module and, most importantly, stickers!

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The instructions are pretty straight forward.

1. Disconnect the negative battery lead.
2. Unplug the OEM cable that connects to the top of the accelerator pedal.
3. Plug in the supplied harness with one connector going to the accelerator pedal and the other to the OEM harness connection.
4. Plug the other end of this cable into the React module.
5. Plug the USB cable in to the control module and route it down below the dash where it connects with the React module.
6. Reconnect the negative battery lead and you're done.

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I tucked everything nice and neat up behind the dash and made sure there weren't any wires dangling down that I might catch when mashing the go faster pedal. I routed the USB cable up under the steering column and out to the controller. I did some driving around to see how the thing worked before deciding on a mounting position. After deciding I liked it I settled on mounting it to the dash just above the rear window controls and my brake controller. Easy enough to get to and see when I need to, easy enough to ignore when I don't.

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So, does it work?

Yes, yes it does.

I made a lap through my neighborhood with the device set to "Stock". I wanted to look for any issues or to see if the vehicle was going to throw a CEL. After putting a few miles on the odometer and having no problems I clicked the dial over to "Street" to see what happened. The Sequoia became undrivable is what happened! Putting your foot anywhere near the accelerator generated instant acceleration. This greatly increased the "touchy throttle" syndrome I complained about above. I see why some folks would like it, but the Sequoia is not meant to be a drag racer. After launching from a stop sign with the React in "Street" and the level raised to +4, I decided this mode would only be used if I wanted to take rubber off the rear tires. Not what I bought this thing for.

I found a large parking lot and proceeded to play with the other modes. Here's what I got:

Mud/Sand: Instant throttle response but smoother delivery than stock. Hard to explain but the throttle felt more connected, like an old school throttle body with an actual cable attached. I don't see how the instant throttle response is good in a sand/mud situation, but maybe I thinking of it as being stuck in sand/mud vs just driving through it. The smooth throttle would be helpful, but that instant response might cause tire spin...

Crawl: Dead throttle for the first 20% of the pedal. At least that was my initial impression. This mode seems to really restrict the throttle signal to the throttle body for the first 15 to 20 % of the pedal. This makes it very easy to keep the RPMs low while providing smooth easy power to the wheels. Anything beyond 20% of the pedal and the throttle reaction goes back to stock but feels smoother. After practicing with this for a bit I can see where this would be useful in off road situations where you're trying to minimize wheel spin but don't necessarily want to use two foot modulated driving.

Economy: This is what I bought this thing for. The first 10% of the accelerator pedal movement results in very slow, even throttle response. This allows the vehicle to very smoothly accelerate and ease it's way up from idle to around 1500 RPM. From about 10% to 20% of the accelerator movement the throttle picks up a bit, but still very smoothly allowing you to roll into the power. This almost totally eliminates the touchy throttle syndrome. Clicking the nob down to -2 does the trick and gets rid of the touchy throttle completely. Yeah!

One of my fears was that the economy or crawl modes would cause the vehicle to accelerate too slowly and be dangerous. It appears that Hypertech thought about this and that pressing the throttle down any more than 1/4 of the way results in very stock throttle response, albeit smoother than stock. If you're in economy mode but need to hit the gas to exit a situation you can.

So the pros are that this thing works, and the modes each have their own unique uses. That being said there are some cons, although they're minor and mostly from my OCD:

1. The knob that increases or decreases the level of response has a white position indicator on it, however it doesn't have set stops on it's rotation. This means you can turn it to the right or the left as much as you want to and it keeps going. This causes the white position indicator line to not line up with the level of response that's lit up. This drives me nuts. I'll be removing that knob and either replacing it or painting that white indicator line black. OCD is tough sometimes.

2. The provided USB cable came from a bargain bin at Kmart in 1999. There is no reason for this cable to be this big and bulky, especially when it's connecting to something that most people are going to want to mount on their dash. Why do I need to attempt to hide this cable when there are so many better options out there? For the price Hypertech is charging they could have a custom cable manufactured. The fact that they've chosen to use USB does make it easy for me to replace it though. I'll be ordering a flat cable with a 90 degree connector on the micro usb end so I can hide the cable in the gap between the two panels.

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3. I'm not a huge fan of the price of this thing. I get that they probably won't be selling a ton of these, and I realize that there are costs associated with software development, engineering and bringing this product to market. All the same I'm not sure that it's worth what they're asking for it. $150 maybe, but not over the $300 mark. Now if I drive in economy mode for the next 3 weeks and improve my MPG dramatically I'll retract this statement.

I'm going to fire up Torque tomorrow while driving and see if I can't graph the throttle response in each mode. Torque monitors a couple of other throttle variables that this thing might be affecting so I'll see what that looks like and post up the results.
 
Gallowbraid - I thoroughly enjoyed/appreciated your review. I was doing a web search on Hypertech and this review was the top result from Google. I liked your review so much I signed up for Adventurist just to post this reply! I have a new (to me) Ford Explorere 4WD that sounds like it could benefit from Hypertech's software wizardry. Very funny throttle play in the Explorer and that's just on day to day driving. If I pull the trigger I'll be back with a post/feedback. Albeit not as witty as Gallowbraids....
 
Gallowbraid - I thoroughly enjoyed/appreciated your review. I was doing a web search on Hypertech and this review was the top result from Google. I liked your review so much I signed up for Adventurist just to post this reply! I have a new (to me) Ford Explorere 4WD that sounds like it could benefit from Hypertech's software wizardry. Very funny throttle play in the Explorer and that's just on day to day driving. If I pull the trigger I'll be back with a post/feedback. Albeit not as witty as Gallowbraids....

Welcome!

:home
 
Gallowbraid - I thoroughly enjoyed/appreciated your review. I was doing a web search on Hypertech and this review was the top result from Google. I liked your review so much I signed up for Adventurist just to post this reply! I have a new (to me) Ford Explorere 4WD that sounds like it could benefit from Hypertech's software wizardry. Very funny throttle play in the Explorer and that's just on day to day driving. If I pull the trigger I'll be back with a post/feedback. Albeit not as witty as Gallowbraids....

Glad I could help! Welcome to the site.
 
How's the MPG in the eco mode? Was thinking of one of these for the Power Wagon.

Grabbed this from my build thread because it's been awhile and I'd forgotten:

I've run several tanks of gas through the Sequoia since adding the Hypertech React. I've kept it set on economy -4 as this provides the smoothest throttle response and makes the truck "feel" the way I want it to when accelerating. As an added bonus it does seem to be improving fuel economy every so slightly. Here's the break down:

A 2009 Sequoia 4x4 with the 4.7 V8 is EPA rated at 13 mpg city and 16 mpg highway for a combined 15 mpg. Prior to doing modifications to the vehicle the Sequoia averaging 14 mpg around town and 15ish on the hwy.

After swapping the CATS, putting on the exhaust setup and installing the CAI I was averaging about 16 to 16.5 mpg combined. Just straight around town driving (where we have A LOT of stop and go traffic) I was getting 15 mpg.

After adding the Hypertech React and doing the same driving I'm averaging this with a 50/50 mix of hwy and city driving:



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I haven't changed any of my driving habits, although the React does make it easier to gently roll into the power...which is what it's supposed to do. My last tank of gas yielded over 450 miles of range.
 
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