Battery solutions

jscusmcvet

jscusmcvet

Adventurist
I am a 12v non functioning adult :)
About a year ago I built a little electrical system for use with multiple platforms. I admit I totally went the cheap route. Harbor Freight solar, Advanced auto battery, Walmart battery box... This served us well for several trips and has played nicely on 3 different rigs. Primary goals have been/are to power fridge, limited lighting and sometimes a water pump.
Prepping for a trip to the NC mountains this weekend, I removed the battery and box from one trailer, moved it to another, and hooked it up. We have been keeping the battery topped up with solar and a charge controller. holding about 12.7 volts...
I could not get any power from the outlets (cigarette type) on the battery box. Eventually I removed the top of the battery box and clipped straight to the posts with alligator clips from the charge controller. No issues. Still 12.7v
I threw a fast charger on the battery and it ran up to 13.5 v. Once disconnected from the charger, after about 30 min, with no load, I checked and it was down to 13.1.....

So Questions for you folks...
1) Is it that the battery needs the more powerful plugged in charger to up the voltage?
2) Is this because I have cheaped out?
3) Should I buy one of the pre packaged solutions, such as a Yeti or an Ark Pak and be "done" with it? If so what do you recommend? Goals are to have a self sustained set that charges through solar, that can be moved from one trailer to another, that can run my indel B fridge, LED lights and sometimes the fan in the vent in the camper....

Thanks
John
 
I'm happy with my Ark Pak. I suspect that your battery does need a top off charge to maintain it. Solar should keep you mostly charged while you are using it. I'd put it on battery charger once you get home to maintain it.
 
I'm guessing that 1.) You used a cheapo battery - what is it? How many amp hours? 2.) Is the controller PWM? I'm guessing not since HF. Is it trickle or does actual stages? 3.) How much solar?

Chances are right now your battery is shot from being cooked all the time. Batteries have charging and discharging profiles. But I won't go further into a discussion without knowing the specifics of your system so I can give you proper information.

I put together my own 803 watts of solar and 400 amp hours of lithium batteries.
 
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Well despite the shortcomings of my system, it ran the fridge and a single LED light for the tent all weekend, no problems at all... and that was with sketchy access to sun for most of the day on Saturday. I still believe I will upgrade to a better system, but it worked as is OK.
 
Nuclear Redneck said:
I'm happy with my Ark Pak. I suspect that your battery does need a top off charge to maintain it. Solar should keep you mostly charged while you are using it. I'd put it on battery charger once you get home to maintain it.
Click to expand...

Which battery are you using? I have been using a Die-hard platinum but it is time to replace it. Anyone found a 130 a/h group 31 for ArkPak?
 
BoldAdventure said:
I'm guessing that 1.) You used a cheapo battery - what is it? How many amp hours? 2.) Is the controller PWM? I'm guessing not since HF. Is it trickle or does actual stages? 3.) How much solar?

Chances are right now your battery is shot from being cooked all the time. Batteries have charging and discharging profiles. But I won't go further into a discussion without knowing the specifics of your system so I can give you proper information.

I put together my own 803 watts of solar and 400 amp hours of lithium batteries.
Click to expand...
Wow!
Tell me more about this setup please
 
jscusmcvet said:
Well despite the shortcomings of my system, it ran the fridge and a single LED light for the tent all weekend, no problems at all... and that was with sketchy access to sun for most of the day on Saturday. I still believe I will upgrade to a better system, but it worked as is OK.
Click to expand...
So you are now getting 12 volts from the outlets on the battery box? Or is this from clamping to the battery's posts inside the box?

If I'm guessing correct, you picked up the Attwood box from Walmart with the little voltage meter on the top left side?
The outlets on that box are fused on the underside of the lid, under a little black cover. It's those glass tubular fuses, and I think they're either 10 or 15 amp fuses.

What type of battery is it? AGM or Flooded Cell. And is it a Deep Cycle?
It's not uncommon for an AGM battery to REST at 12.8-13.2 volts. A Flooded Cell battery is made up of six 2.1 volt cells, adds up to 12.6 volts, the fully charged state of a flooded cell battery, but it will REST at 12.3-12.6. Rest, meaning once charging is removed, it's where the battery's cells will equalize without a load on them. AGM batteries are capable of holding a higher charge, closer to 13 volts and will rest around there as well.

The only part of your system you need to upgrade is probably the battery. That box will fit a Group 31. DEKA makes a great value Group 31 AGM, 100 Amp Hour battery for less than $200. Keep the solar on it as much as possible even at home, and it should last you a long time.
 
DiamondBackMatt said:
Wow!
Tell me more about this setup please
Click to expand...

Solar

10931233_1515840272045668_5467902052084500334_n.jpg


Solar Controllers, Battery Management & 400aH lithium under the cover.

12651058_1527567427539619_191573402137231548_n.jpg
 
If you really want to learn about solar rv systems, grab a cup of coffee and read everything posted on handy Bob's blog. Google "handy bob" and you will find that you likely have a battery, panel, and controller issue together. He lives full time on battery power without a generator. That includes the use of a microwave, toaster, TV, and even large power tools.
 
dirtdustand4x4 said:
If you really want to learn about solar rv systems, grab a cup of coffee and read everything posted on handy Bob's blog. Google "handy bob" and you will find that you likely have a battery, panel, and controller issue together. He lives full time on battery power without a generator. That includes the use of a microwave, toaster, TV, and even large power tools.
Click to expand...
What he said. For the most part KISS. It's tough to beat, monocrystaline cells, heavy gauge wiring, charge controller close to batteries, and 2- 6 volt golf cart batteries.
For your use 80 to 100 watts should meet your needs. (A fridge/freezer should last 3 days without charging-yea I know it depends on the fridge setting, outdoor temp, how often and how long you open the fridge door, how hot the sun is, solar flares, global warming, bla bla bla). If it was easy it wouldn't be much fun.
By the way, I was at the off road expo this year-NC is a beautiful state.
 
Handy Bob is a bit of a crank. Lots of good info, but wrong on a few things. I lived for a year and a half off of solar and batteries.
 
Mitch said:
So you are now getting 12 volts from the outlets on the battery box? Or is this from clamping to the battery's posts inside the box?

If I'm guessing correct, you picked up the Attwood box from Walmart with the little voltage meter on the top left side?
The outlets on that box are fused on the underside of the lid, under a little black cover. It's those glass tubular fuses, and I think they're either 10 or 15 amp fuses.

What type of battery is it? AGM or Flooded Cell. And is it a Deep Cycle?
It's not uncommon for an AGM battery to REST at 12.8-13.2 volts. A Flooded Cell battery is made up of six 2.1 volt cells, adds up to 12.6 volts, the fully charged state of a flooded cell battery, but it will REST at 12.3-12.6. Rest, meaning once charging is removed, it's where the battery's cells will equalize without a load on them. AGM batteries are capable of holding a higher charge, closer to 13 volts and will rest around there as well.

The only part of your system you need to upgrade is probably the battery. That box will fit a Group 31. DEKA makes a great value Group 31 AGM, 100 Amp Hour battery for less than $200. Keep the solar on it as much as possible even at home, and it should last you a long time.
Click to expand...

Thank you Mitch, this is very helpful. I do have that Atwood and will check that fuse. I am quite sure at this point that the battery is in need of an upgrade. I am looking at AGM batteries at the moment...
 
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