ramonortiz55 4runner build: La Venenosa

I never posted my before lift numbers.

Front before lift:





Rear before lift:





Will post pics of lift height after settlement soon..
 
So my starter went out last week, I ordered one from Camelback Toyota and it arrived damaged :(

Good thing their customer service is top of the line, getting another one shipped out to me second day air.





 
I received my Savage Rear bumper with swingout a few months ago, I barely had the time to have it sent for powdercoating and getting it installed.

I decided to do a writeup on the installation since the vendor didn't provide any. Hopefully this helps anyone that is interested in buying this setup in regards to installation.

This will be installed on a 2001 4runner.

The morning sunlight was not good with me - So I apologize in advance if any of the pictures are too dark. I try to make this as comprehensive as possible.

Here is the powdercoated bumper and swingout assembly:





First step is to obviously remove the rear bumper and hitch:



Drop the spare and get it out of the way:



Since the hitch is the first thing to go, I made sure the trailer wiring harness bracket was disconnected from the hitch:



The hitch receiver is held in place to the frame with a total of 8 bolts - 4 on each side:



Removing the eight bolts will drop the hitch receiver:



Next remove the mudflaps, there are about 3 screws that hold the mudflaps onto the 4runner. They are located against the wheel well:





Removing the mudflaps will reveal a bolt, take it out:





Once that bolt is off, remove the bumper cover. These are held firmly in place with tabs, crawl underneath the vehicle and push the tabs out with a flathead, pliers, etc.







Once that black bumper cover is gone, it will reveal a black bracket with two bolts, remove the top two bolts on EACH side of the bumper:





The bumper is now being held in place by four bolts underneath the vehicle, two on each side on this bracket:



Oooops.. found two more bolts - The bolts are located where the bumper ends at the mudflap - notice the fuel filler neck cover - One on each side - These are a little hidden.



The bumper should now come off:



Inside of the frame rails, a long rod with a bolt welded on it will be seen, pull them out:



In order to get the bumper in, the rubber grommet that holds the exhaust tail piece must be removed:



When the bumper was removed, this black bracket was revealed - one on each side. Remove this also:



Feed your cat:



Once you're finished feeding the cat, it is time to install your bumper:



This is the hinge bracket where the swingout attaches to. Make sure this gets installed FIRST before installing. When the bumper is purchased, Savage only drills pilot holes for the hinge bracket. Drill them out BEFORE getting the bumper powdercoated or painted.





Hinge hardware:



Assemble and bolt on like this:





Install bumper:



Picture of hinge for the swingout:





Only FOUR bolts were used to set the bumper. In the bumper kit, these two brackets were included:



These go into the frame rail:



The first and last bolt now threads into that bracket:



This plate is used to install the locking lever:





Install the "anchor" for the locking lever:



Install the locking lever:



Now the gas strut is installed:



Strut bracket that is attached to the arm:





Pop open a beer and enjoy your progress:



Behold the tire carrier stand:





Next, the license plate bracket is installed.





Hmm.. time to run some wiring:



I decided to tap into the trailer wiring, good thing they were labeled. I tapped into "Tail" and "Ground", black and white:



Run wiring and attached using quick splices - I made sure it was well wrapped in electrical tape:



Clamped it to the rear tube of the bumper, where it is hidden. No, I don't mind the hose clamps. It cant be seen unless you are looking for it.



Now complete:





Enjoy the rest of that six pack!
 
Last weekend I decided to clean the throttle body on my 4runner.

Decided to document the procedure In hopes it would benefit someone who likes do things on their own:

For this task, I picked up some throttle body cleaner, a rag, and my wife's toothbrush:



One of the most important steps in this procedure is to stare down the throttle for a good 2 or 3 minutes. This helps break down the carbon inside. The harder you stare, the more it breaks down and easier it is to clean. Sorta like WD-40 loosens up rusted nuts and bolts.



First step is removing the airbox assembly, loosen airbox bolts and straps:





unplug mass airflow sensor and any other connectors in the vicinity:



There will be a smaller airbox towards the firewall with some airlines connecting into it, remove the airhoses and the small airbox:





Don't forget the airhoses that run towards the front of the engine towards the piping of the airbox:





Loosening these thinner clamps will help removing the piping to the airbox:







Remove another plug, this one is right besides the accelerator cable:



Three cooling lines will be feeding into the throttle body, these can be removed also:







Another plug:



Remove the accelerator cable off the throttle, this can be done by clocking the body of the spring and sliding it out carefully:



Another picture of everything removed:



Remove the two top nuts that are holding the throttle in position:



Now remove the bottom bolts that are holding the throttle in position:



Pull off the throttle gently:



Take it to the operating table:



Generously spray inside the throttle body with cleaner and brush the carbon off with your wife's toothbrush and rag:



Carefully rotate the "door" to make sure all the carbon buildup has been cleaned out.

If you aren't bleeding, you aren't done:



Once you are satisfied with the removal of carbon, installation is reverse of removal.

 
Just read through yuor very thorough documentation of your build. Very nice! Wife and I are considering a 1999 4 Runner Limited. It has 98k miles. Do you have any resources or recommendations for what to look for, specific to these vehicles? I am a hands on home shade tree mechanic, but pretty much only on Jeeps to this point. I now all vehicles, especially this old, have their specific bugs. Any thoughts for me?
 
jscusmcvet said:
Just read through yuor very thorough documentation of your build. Very nice! Wife and I are considering a 1999 4 Runner Limited. It has 98k miles. Do you have any resources or recommendations for what to look for, specific to these vehicles? I am a hands on home shade tree mechanic, but pretty much only on Jeeps to this point. I now all vehicles, especially this old, have their specific bugs. Any thoughts for me?
Click to expand...
Yes, here is something that will give you plenty of bedtime reading:

https://www.4runners.com/threads/3rd-gen-4runner-buyers-guide.630/

Emphasis on the following:

1. Check for the pink milkshake
2. Some 4runner years didn't come with a center console with cupholders - Make sure yours come with it - Or if you can put up with not having cupholders. I know for sure you can swap the center console out if you don't have one with cup holders.
3. Check for rust.
4. Replace the lower ball joints ASAP, especially if there is no record of it being done.
5. Read the buyers guide, it includes soooo much info..
 
The illumination bulbs were out on my AC controls, ECT, rear window button, rear defroster, and power point.

This is a write up on the step by step process I took to replace the bulbs.

My research was done here:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/141615-light-bulbs.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/160498-led-dash-lights-faqs.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/12565-replacing-lights-behind-c-controls.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/13845-climate-control-light.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/132012-write-up-climate-control-dash-bulbs-2000-limited.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/151858-revisit-auto-climate-control-back-lights.html#post1498072

***************************************************************************

After reading thru those threads, I determined I needed the following part numbers. These are for a 2001 4runner, the bulbs for other 4runner generations might be different.

2001 4runner limited climate control light bulbs:

Part Number #81850-35050 - 2 Total
Part Number #81850-35040 - 2 Total

Hazard control light bulb:

Part Number #84999-10860 - 1 Total

ECT and Defroster light bulb:

Part Number #90010-01041 - 1 Total

Rear window roll down:

Part Number #90010-01042 - 1 Total

Cigarette lighter:

Part Number #84999-10250 - 1 Total

***************************************************************************

Ordered all my bulbs from Camelback Toyota:



Removing the center console cup holder, this is done by tugging it off:





Then removing the shifter surround:



Next, the radio surround is removed, gently pry it away from the dash:



Pull it out slowly to reveal the plugs by the ac vents:



Unplug the power point plugs:





Once the power point plug connector has been removed, locate the bulb - it is the gray end of the power point:



Twist to remove:



Next, I removed the hazard switch:



This is done by releasing the side tabs:



Next, I removed this portion:



This is done by releasing tabs at the ends AND at the top center:





Next I removed the AC controls faceplate, tabs are on top. This is very flimsy, so careful:





I then removed the screws that hold in the AC control unit, disconnected the rear plugs and pulled it out:



At this moment, I went ahead and installed the power point bulb:



Time for some surgery. Hazard switch:



Twist and pull out the bulb, replace with new one:



Now the strip, this has two bulbs. One for defroster and ECT, another bulb for the rear window switch:



A needle nose pliers will allow the removal of one of the bulbs.



To remove the other, the backing must be removed, a small flat head screwdriver helps here. I then removed the other bulb and replaced it.



Next step of the surgery was to open the front of the AC control unit. I removed two screws. FOUR tabs need to be released on the top and bottom. Forks or toothpicks help keeping tabs open while I worked on other tabs.







Carefully opened the AC control unit..





Bulbs removed and replaced:





I then assembled the AC control unit together.

Reinstalled everything back together.

Finally have all my illumination working properly!
 
Decided to do a detailed writeup for swapping the valve cover gaskets on my 2001 4runner.

This job took me nearly two days - It was my first time doing this and I do like to take my time while working on cars. I've been known to start working on a car, leave it alone and come back and finish it a few days later. LOL.

I know some of you are not as patient as me, I just am never in a rush when working on cars.

So this it the list of items needed with Toyota Part numbers:

1. Valve cover gaskets - Part #11213-62020 - 2 Total
2. Spark Plug Tube gaskets - Part #11193-16010 - 6 Total
3. Intake Plenum Gaskets - Part #17176-62040 - 2 Total
4. Washer Seals - Part #90210-05007 - 16 Total
5. Camshaft Plugs - Part #11188-62010 - 2 Total
6. Halfmoon Plugs - Part #11183-62010 - 4 Total
7. PCV Valve Grommet - Part #90480-18001 - 1 Total
8. Toyota FIPG seal packing - Part #00295-00103 - 1 Tube

**Throw the PCV Valve Grommet and Spark Plug Tube Gaskets in the Freezer a night before. I will explain why later**

Mandatory parts picture:



My research links:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/91765-valve-cover-gasket.html

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...e-cover-gasket-replacement-part-s-n-pics.html

http://www.yotatech.com/f2/5vzfe-leaky-valve-covers-fixed-56k-beware-149594/

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/109197-valve-cover-gasket-replacement-job.html

Now let's tackle this job!

First step is removing the airbox assembly, loosen airbox bolts and straps:





unplug mass airflow sensor and any other connectors in the vicinity:



There will be a smaller airbox towards the firewall with some airlines connecting into it, remove the airhoses and the small airbox:





Don't forget the airhoses that run towards the front of the engine towards the piping of the airbox:





Loosening these thinner clamps will help removing the piping to the airbox:







Remove another plug, this one is right besides the accelerator cable:



Three cooling lines will be feeding into the throttle body, these can be removed also:







Another plug:



Remove the accelerator cable off the throttle, this can be done by clocking the body of the spring and sliding it out carefully:



Another picture of everything removed:



Remove the two top nuts that are holding the throttle in position:



Now remove the bottom bolts that are holding the throttle in position:



Pull off the throttle gently, pay real close attention how the metal gasket is oriented. It needs to go back the same way or your truck will explode:



Next, we will remove the upper intake manifold. Make sure to give it a good stare before you start. Nice, hard, evil stare. You're going to own that intake manifold. It's yours. Touch it. Feel it. Be the Manifold:



To remove it loosen these brackets that hold the speedometer cable:



and these other brackets that are on the driver's side of the manifold. (the bracket with the blue paint might need to be removed from the other end if you cant fit a ratchet at the upper bolt):



disconnect this hose at the far end of the manifold, on top:



Next, remove all the other bolts that hold down the intake manifold - Not pictured. Manifold should then come off.



Now time to remove the lower intake manifold -

If for some reason you couldn't take the speedometer bracket off due to it being too congested, you can take it off now:



This stainless tubing has hose attached to the ends, take off the hose. I didn't have to remove the tubing itself, just the hose.



Remove the computer diagnostics port that is attached on the driver's side of the manifold:



At the back of the lower intake manifold, there is a bolt holding the wiring harness, remove it.



At this time, the bolts holding the lower intake manifold can now be removed.



Remove the remaining bolts holding the lower intake manifold down:



Once the lower intake manifold is removed, cover up the exposed intake chambers with a rag, tape, etc to prevent stuff from falling in there. You do NOT want a bolt falling in there. Might as well jump off a bridge:



Moving onto the passenger side valve covers, remove the spark plug wires and coil packs:



disconnect the injectors:



Remove the bolts holding down a wire bracket - This will not be able to be removed completely, but taking the bolts off will make the job easier. It will give you room to work with.



At this time, the valve cover can be removed:



So beautiful, so clean. Thanks to frequent oil changes :)



At the end of the engine heads there will be a wiring harness attached to a bracket, close to where my hand is at. If you feel around, you will find it. This will need to be removed:



Looks like this:



There are two halfmoon plugs per side:

one in the front:



one in the back:



one camshaft plug in the back that is being held down by two bolts:




The halfmoon plugs can be removed with some channel locks. Gently pry upward. UPWARD. You may wiggle a little. Just not much. Don't want to crack the head. :anonymous:

Removed:





Remove the camshaft plug:







At this time, make sure your supervisor approves your work:

 
After you have received supervisor approval, clean off the old gasket material using any scraping tool. Make sure to scrape well in the areas where the halfmoon and camshaft plugs go:



After that is done get your valve cover and flip it over. The spark plug tube gaskets will now be replaced:



Grab a small screwdriver and tap the gasket from the other side:





Pull out the PCV grommet:



Now remove the old washers seals:



I did this by tapping it from the other end with a small flat head screwdriver:





At this point, go back to the freezer and grab the THREE replacement gaskets and the PCV grommet:



Pop the new PCV grommet in:



Pop the new replacement gaskets in. Some people use a large socket to get them to sit right. Since I froze them, they were able to shrink. Making my job easier:



Sit the new valve cover gasket carefully:



Notice the areas that will need seal packing, this is where the FIPG goes. Be generous. Don't skimp out, you want a nice noticeable ooze when you sit it on the head:



Install with new camshaft plug:



Now goes the halfmoon plugs:



Same procedure, a nice noticeable ooze:



The Toyota manual indicated to add extra FIPG to the indicated locations:



I made sure it was on there :D





Set the cover on carefully:



Torque the valve cover bolts down to



The procedure for the driver's side is the same as the left, with the exception of a wiring harness section going above the valve covers:



I didn't chase down the harness to see what it was for, I just worked around it.

Once the driver's side is done, install everything as it was removed. Replace the plenum gaskets between the manifolds.



Done!
 
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