木 2009 Toyota Sequoia Build Thread 木

Changes in suspension height and larger tires will give additional height to the vehicle with both positive and negative results. Some of the positive are additional height with corresponding changes in approach, break-over, and departure angles.

The coil-over will provide for better articulation. Spacers are a low-cost alternative to merely provide additional lift in order to clear larger tires and rims with the futile hope of attracting mates. Spacers merely compress the OE unit, thus increasing pre-load, reduce articulation, and result in a more harsh ride, in addition to transmitting more shock to vehicle components and accelerating wear. Some studies suggest it causes cancer and male infertility.

Too much of a "good thing" can have detrimental effects. Exceeding suspension heights of 3 inches will introduce all sorts of issues with axles, driveshafts, and steering. As you've probably already encountered with your other projects, modifications to your truck will have second and third order effects and require additional modifications to fully realize the original benefit. Other additions like a hitch with receiver and stock attributes like a larger spare tire will effect your ability to clear obstacles but often an angled approach and precise brake modulation will minimize ground contact with those features you mentioned. Training of course enhances your ability to deal with those challenges but even a structured trail ride with the ground features you cited will give you the practice and experience you need with this much larger "new" vehicle in a somewhat controlled environment close to home.

The rake I speak of isn't something I manufactured but was what I distilled from a Toyota/Lexus engineer I spent some time with. It makes sense when you think of what the axles must do, especially the front, to provide motive forces as well as braking and steering. Why on earth people seek to impair their vehicle performance is beyond my comprehension especially when you place off road driving in the proper context - performance driving.

I believe you are planning to attend the next Rendezvous. Let's look at some specific obstacles and derive some techniques to satisfactorily navigate them with your new "tuna boat". Be sure to remind me at the event whereupon I will look at you oddly as if we've never had this discussion. :D
 
Changes in suspension height and larger tires will give additional height to the vehicle with both positive and negative results. Some of the positive are additional height with corresponding changes in approach, break-over, and departure angles.

The coil-over will provide for better articulation. Spacers are a low-cost alternative to merely provide additional lift in order to clear larger tires and rims with the futile hope of attracting mates. Spacers merely compress the OE unit, thus increasing pre-load, reduce articulation, and result in a more harsh ride, in addition to transmitting more shock to vehicle components and accelerating wear. Some studies suggest it causes cancer and male infertility.

So the OE shock/spring is still compressed even if the spacer is mounted outside of the unit and not inside where it's purposely pre-loading the spring? By lowering where the shock/spring mounts and then dropping the differential as well aren't you just raising the rest of the vehicle away from these components? I get the increased articulation the CO provides, it's physically longer and has a bigger range.

I believe you are planning to attend the next Rendezvous. Let's look at some specific obstacles and derive some techniques to satisfactorily navigate them with your new "tuna boat". Be sure to remind me at the event whereupon I will look at you oddly as if we've never had this discussion. :D

Don't worry, I'll only remember this generous offer at the last moment or the most inopportune time possible. :p
 
That spacer typically uses three screws that replace the top plate of the CO that draws the top of the assembly together causing some pre-load to occur. Don't forget those second and third order effects of the upper and lower control arms... that spacer affects the original articulation of the CO.
 
Great...more reading and research is needed I guess.

This:

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vs ordering individual components of a Tundra kit (obviously wouldn't be able to use the rear components):

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Some very minor updates, but if I don't put them here now I'll forget. After cross referencing the part numbers for Tundra/Sequoia hood hinges and hoods it appeared that they were interchangeable. This, in my mind, meant that I could use Tundra ditch light brackets on the Sequoia. I hit up Caliraised LED for a set of brackets and extensions (allowing two light pods to be mounted to each bracket) as I had used their products on the Tacoma and was quite happy with the fit and finish.

While waiting for the brackets to ship I debated what light pods to buy. On the Tacoma I had used Auxbeam products and, overall, was very happy with the results. I considered using Rigid this time around, but I just can not swallow their pricing. I've used a number of products from Mictuning in the past (they make switches, relays and other electrical components) and saw that they were offering light pods with some impressive marketing hoopla and shiny PDF files. I ordered a pair of spots and a pair of floods.

My initial impression after receiving them is that these things are all turned out by the same Chinese factory somewhere. They're identical in design and manufacture quality to some no name pods I've seen in the past. They appear to be on par with the Auxbeam products, but the mounting hardware is different. I actually received different hardware with the floodlights vs the spotlights...a little annoying, but I had the nuts and bolts kicking around to remedy the situation. I've messed around with the Rigid products in a 4Wheel Parts store previously and, without seeing the light patterns next to each other, the only physical difference I can find is that the housing for the Rigids is slightly thicker with a different gasket design to seal out moisture. We'll see how these hold up over time.

While I waited for the brackets to ship I went ahead and added some waterproof connections to the factory harness. I have a paranoia about water ingress so this got heat shrink and a solid wrap of electrical tape.

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Just doing some pattern tests on the back of the garage door the simple difference in the reflector design between the spot and the flood seems to work well for shaping the beam. We'll see how well they do in the real world.

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Shipping took awhile for the brackets. I'm a Caliraised fan, but apparently one of the items I ordered from them was out of stock so it prevented the entire order from shipping. If they had contacted me I would have asked to have that item removed from the order or shipped separately...instead I had to follow up with them and, conveniently, it happened to be the same day that item came back in stock. The brackets took all of 10 minutes to install.

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While gathering up the tools to install the brackets I got a visit from my new shop dog. He's been hanging around the garage lately, not entirely sure where he came from or if he already has an owner. He doesn't have a collar or tags so I'm assuming he's just a stray. He's kind of odd looking, and doesn't really like to be scratched behind the ears. He seems pretty loyal though and shows up whenever I'm working in the garage. He must be some exotic hairless breed or something... I've named him Bud.

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Next up it was time to run the wiring for the lights. It's always best to use a relay when switching lights...or really most any electrical circuit in a vehicle. Just make sure you use a relay that's rated for the load it's going to be switching. Each pair of these lights is pulling less than 3 amps so these guys are more than enough.

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If you're adding relays spring for the ones that come with a wire socket...or buy one separately.

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This keeps the wiring a little neater and gives you a more solid connection at the relay. If you're worried about water ingress here they also make water proof harnesses for relays that carry a rubber gasket to prevent that pesky pixie lubricant from getting in.

I plan on making some sort of bracket to hold relays later, but for the moment I just attached them to the top of the factory fuse box.

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I pulled wire from each set of lights and wrapped it in loom as it crossed the engine bay. I crimped connectors for each ground wire and paired off the positive wires for each set of lights.

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Is that wire an overkill gauge for this load? Yep...but it's what I had. Bigger is almost always better. I'm not a huge fan of butt connectors, but when crimped well they provide a good way to do this type of splice:

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I then buttoned up the rest of the wiring and didn't take a single picture. I'll have to pop the hood later today when I wire up the switches and add some photos...after I clean up the work bench.

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Washed a small fleet of vehicles over the weekend and I need to make a product recommendation. I am in no way affiliated with Meguiars and they're certainly not paying me for this. Back in my younger days of street trucks and stereo systems I fancied myself as a competent car detailer. Detailing a vehicle to the deep wet shine was therapeutic to me. I have, for the longest time, been a fan of Meguiars Cleaner Wax. It's a traditional wax that's always given me great results.

I decided to give one of their newer waxes a try this time and picked up this:

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I have to say...I'll never go back to using the other wax or any traditional Carnauba wax again. This stuff is the bomb! Very easy to put on evenly, and it wipes off of everything with ease...even rubber and plastic! Carnauba clings to plastic trim like a fat kid to cake and you always have to be careful when waxing not to get any on plastic panels. This stuff wipes right off when no residue and no chalky afterflakes on the plastic. They only downside is that it has a much longer drying time than traditional wax. If you try to buff it off before it's dry you'll have a bad day. Loving that finish though:

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So there you have it...a build thread with electrical advice, suspension questions and detailing product promotion. What a great time to be alive.
 
Took this afternoon and finished up wiring the switches and finishing up the ditch lights. I took the opportunity to do a little planning and when ahead and ran some wiring for the future as well. Nothing like saving time later.

Took a couple terminal blocks I had and went work work jumpering them together. Initially I created a solid rail here, but later on I split it in half to provide a constant 12v on 5 of the terminals and a switched 12v on the other 5...more on that in a minute.

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I pulled the panel from under the steering wheel (again...we did this already when putting the brake controller in) and started in on it. I'll warn you now, this isn't an install of your typical autozone $4.99 switch...because I'm a little obsessive about maintaining OEM looks and tend to over engineer things.

Here's where I'll be mounting the switches for the lights. I'll be moving the RSCA button over to the right, again planning for the future.

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Toyota keys the slots for their switches, you can see the differences in the two slots below:

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Using an razor blade I trimmed the far right switch position so that I could relocate the RSCA switch there. I wanted to separate it from the light switches and provide room for future lighting switch options to keep things all together.

Unfortunately the Sequoia has few aftermarket switch options. Fortunately it uses the smaller size Toyota switches...just like the Hilux and Prado! Australia to the rescue:

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These switches match the factory switches in size, shape and backlight color (close enough anyway). They also come with a nice wire harness for quick connections:

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Using this image as a guide:

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I used my multimeter to verify this connector matched. The wire colors are different, but the layout matches...I'm assuming it's a common layout but if you buy a different Toyota switch it would be best to verify it.

I added connectors wires 1, 3 and 4 from the diagram above. These will connect to two of the terminal blocks.

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I mounted one of the blocks just below the switch panel on the back side of the trim piece, this will be the rail that has 5 constant terminals and 5 switched terminals. The 5 constant terminals will run into the switch using wire 1 from the diagram above and then run out on wire 2 to the relays that are mounted in the engine bay. This will trigger the relay and make the power connection for the lights. The 5 switched terminals will be powered through a relay that is triggered by the vehicle lighting circuit. More on that in a minute.

Here wire 1 and 2 are connected and I'm preparing to mount the terminal block for the ground rail. I mounted the terminals by drilling holes through the strengthening ridges on the back of the dash trim, running wire through them and then twisting them tight using pliers. Quite strong but still removable if need be. A small zip tie would also do the trick.

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Here I'm mounting the ground rail. I had to cut it down as it wouldn't fit full length.

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Here all the connections have been made for the switches and I've divided the upper rail in 1/2 by removing one of the white jumper wires. The right side in the photo will be the constant side and the left will be switched. The yellow wires will provide power to the lighting circuit inside the switches.

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Between this switch panel and another to the right of the steering wheel I can add a maximum of 5 switches here. Using the method @bob91yj and @Scott B. mentioned earlier in this thread (putting the wires in the chuck of a drill) I wrapped 5 wires together to use as trigger wires for the relays under the hood.

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I pulled this bundle plus one additional 12 gauge wire through the same factory grommet I used previously to get them into the engine bay. The 12 gauge wire will connect to the right side of the upper terminal block, providing constant power. The 5 trigger wires will connect to the green wire on the switch harness, 1 to 1 to send 12 volts out to the relays under the hood. Now all that's left is to source 12v that's switched on with the vehicle's lighting circuit. For this I poked around in some of the unused factory connectors behind the switch panel. Toyota appears to use a single wire harness that has all the connectors in place even for options the vehicle doesn't carry. Smart on their part, it's cheaper and only requires one installation method. Most of the switch blanks are actually slotted to hold these unused connectors.

After poking around a bit I found that the purple wire on this connector is switched by the vehicle lighting circuit. Normally I don't like chopping into factory harnesses but this is the connector for either a power rear lift gate or turning on/off rear parking sensors. I'm not going to be adding either of those features so I'll take this wire for my own use.

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Some splicing, crimping, heat shrink and electrical tape later and I've got a serviceable connection.

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Time for some wire loom. Now I've got a clean harness with the 5 trigger wires and the 12V supply wire.

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I made the connection from the other terminal block to the factory grounding point behind the kick panel and then buttoned everything back up. Under the hood I ran the 12v supply wire to the Blue Sea fuse block and gave it a 3A fuse. Powering the relays and the leds inside the switches is pulling milliamps of power. Even if I expand this to 5 switches and relays it should pull a maximum of about 1.5 - 2 amps. After buttoning things up, and again taking no under hood pictures I tested everything out.

Everything off:

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Turning the headlights or running lights on activate the switch back lights:

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With the headlights/running lights off and the switches on we have indicator lights:

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And with everything on we get all the pretty lights:

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The 3 unused trigger wires are tied off inside the loom behind the panel and under the hood. To add switches in the future all I'll need to do is connect them to the terminals, splice them to a trigger wire and connect the trigger wire to a relay. It's like a SPOD, but cheaper!
 
A little maintenance today. Since purchasing the Sequoia it has been squealing when first started up for the day. After it warms up the squealing will stop. At first I assumed it was squeals of excitement at having moved from the life of a soccer-mom-mobile to one of a hardened off road warrior. I came to quickly realize, however, that it was in fact the drive belt yelling to be changed.

I ordered this from Amazon:

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It's made by Dayco who makes the factory belt that Toyota uses. Internet minds recommend going with this or the stock belt in order to prevent any squealing. Since the factory belt was $76 and this one was $33 I chose this one. Below is the routing diagram for the 4.7 V8:

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It's important to note that many websites list pulling the tensioner pulley clockwise to relieve the tension. This is incorrect, at least for 2009 Sequoias anyway; counter clockwise is the way to go.

In order to facilitate a quick install it's important to do this maintenance in your driveway with an afternoon thunderstorm rolling in hard behind you. The thunder and lightning will help motivate you to seat the belt correctly the first time and get this install buttoned up fast! Cranked the truck after the install while crossing my fingers that the belt wouldn't fly off. Everything worked fine, cycled the A/C to be sure there was no squealing as the clutch engaged and was met with glorious silence. Overall it took about 20 minutes to complete the swap, and the dealer quoted $270 for this. Highway robbery.
 
Just caught up on your thread. Always impressed with your work. Could not even imagine having the kind of patience on the electrical work that you have. Nice work.
 
Nothing like a little motivation to make sure the job is done right the first time!

Both lightning and my wife have that affect. Being on the receiving end of either's wrath has the same results...:D

Just caught up on your thread. Always impressed with your work. Could not even imagine having the kind of patience on the electrical work that you have. Nice work.

Thanks! I find electrical work theraputic. Crimping, soldering, pulling wires...it's calming and comforting...I've always enjoyed doing that kind of work. The positions I have to contort my 6'4" frame into in order to get under the dash...not theraputic or enjoyable.
 
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Thanks! I find electrical work theraputic. Crimping, soldering, pulling wires...it's calming and comforting...I've always enjoyed doing that kind of work. The positions I have to contort my 6'4" frame into in order to get under the dash...not theraputic or enjoyable.

You know, some people pay good money for a therapist to "contort" them like that...
 
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