Rebuilding Icon Vehicle Dynamics Shocks

Along with good tires, your suspension is THE single most significant upgrade that you can make to a vehicle, and ICON Vehicle Dynamics (IVD) makes some of the best rebuildable off-road shocks around.  Compared to the non-rebuildable OEM shocks on most vehicles, or from other aftermarket manufactures, ICON’s fully rebuildable shocks offer a number of big benefits. They provide significantly more performance, adjustability and durability thanks to the fact that they’re rebuildable which enables a much longer service life.  But these rebuildable shocks fit into the same locations on many applications as non-rebuildable shocks, how can they really be so much better? To see what is inside an ICON shock that makes them work so well, and to see exactly what it’s like to rebuild an ICON shock I sought out ICON’s master shock builder, Adrian Aldama.  He graciously allowed me to take a ton of photos of his hands while he worked his magic rebuilding the IVD shocks from our Project Tundra.

The first part of any shock rebuild is getting the shocks removed and off the vehicle.  While you’re pulling the suspension apart, take the time to make note of any observed wear and the general condition of things.  How are your bushings or rod ends holding up?  Are your shock shafts or lower eyes showing signs of rock pitting or other damage?  How are the hoses and shock bodies looking?  Are there any visible cracks in anything, especially springs? Now is also the time to check out all of the other parts of your vehicle’s suspension too.  Bushings, ball joints, rod ends, links, control arms – inspect all of the parts in your suspension system for visible wear, play, or damage.  Even the best shocks in the world can fail, and will be hamstrung by other worn out suspension components.  All of these parts work together as your suspension system, so whether you’re pulling your shocks for a rebuild, or doing a fresh install, make sure every part in the system is in good shape. 

Once you have your shocks out, you have two paths you can pursue for your rebuild.  You can take the rebuild on by yourself at home, or your can have an ICON service center handle the rebuild for you.  Doing the rebuild yourself will take a number of specialized tools, like a coil compressor, special hand tools, and a nitrogen charging setup, so you should know that it’s not something you’re going to knock out without some some costs incurred for special kit, and knowledge.  That being said, if you knowledge, tools and skills, ICON does sell full service kits with oil and replacement parts as needed.  On the other hand, an ICON shock service center will have all of these tools and more, and the vast experience of rebuilding hundreds of these shocks.  All you have to do is hand them your old shocks, and they’ll hand you back fully serviced shocks for a service fee.  Here’s what happens behind the scenes when your shocks show up at ICON for a rebuild.

Step one is to remove the springs from any coilovers, and to thoroughly clean your shocks prior to disassembly.  As a shock technician disassembles your shocks, they’ll make note of any parts that are damaged, worn or that should be replaced.  In the case of the 3.0 coilovers on my Tundra, my shock shafts were starting to wear slightly where the oil seal sits on the shock shafts at ride height.  If you look closely, you can see a difference in the chrome finish of the shock shaft.  A non-rebuildable shock would just be permanently worn out, with a worn shaft and seal close to leaking your precious oil out.  Yet on a rebuildable shock, simply replacing the seal extends the service life for quite some time, and you can go all the way back to like new performance by installing a new shock shaft if needed.  The same goes for literally any other seal or part on the shock.  If it’s wearing, it can be replaced.  If it wears on a non-rebuildable shock, chances are you won’t know about it until the shock fails, breaks, or starts leaking oil everywhere and then it’s time to throw it out and buy a new one.

In the case of ICON shocks, a rebuild is also a great time to make upgrades to your shocks.  Depending on the model of shock and vehicle application that you’re working with, there may be a number of performance upgrades that you can add to your shocks.  For example, you can upgrade your remote reservoirs to finned reservoirs which significantly enhance oil cooling.  More oil cooling capacity means that you can push your suspension harder and for a longer period of time before you start to experience shock fade.  These finned reseviors also happen to look very good at cars and coffee too.  You can also add ICON’s awesome Compression Damping Control (CDC) Valves to your reservoirs if they don’t already have CDC valves.  This little adjuster can make a world of difference in your suspension’s performance by providing an externally adjustable clicker that allows you to make a very noticeable compression damping change. 

Both CDC Valves are set in the H position, which uses the smallest port to flow the least amount of oil which provides the greatest amount of compression damping.
Both CDC Valves are set in the S position, which uses the largest port to flow the greatest amount oil which provides the least amount of compression damping.

To explain the value of the CDC valve in real world use, this valve allows you to adjust your suspension to match the damping needed with the type of surface you’re driving on.  For example, say you’re going to be spending a long time on a dirt road with a bunch of gravel and small embedded rock.  You can back your CDC valves off toward the soft end of the adjuster to allow for more small bump compliance. Now lets say you’re going to go play in the sand dunes, which means you’re going to be spending time smashing whoops and experiencing big G-outs in bowls.  You can add in a bunch of compression damping to keep your shocks from blowing through all their travel, which will allow you to carry more speed in the sand.  The CDC Valve works by metering the flow of oil through a part that looks like the cylinder (the part that holds the bullets) of a 10-shot revolver.  As you adjust the CDC Valve from soft you hard, you line up a port that restricts more and more oil, which increases compression damping with each click.  The CDC Valve allows you to tune your suspension to match the load you’re carrying and the surface you’re driving on, and I would absolutely recommend adding them to your setup if you don’t have them.

Shims installed on a piston.
Shims laid out for inspection and cleaning.

Yet with or without a CDC Valve, both the compression and rebound of an ICON shock can be adjusted during a rebuild.  By changing the valve shim stack that allows oil to flow through the piston attached to the end of your shock shaft, you can adjust the amount of compression and rebound damping that your shocks have.  This is yet another thing that can’t be done with non-rebuildable shocks, where you’re just stuck with the shock manufacturer’s generic setting.  In many cases, non-rebuildable shocks are valved much too soft for Adventure Travel use, and the loads these vehicles carry while traveling “overland”.  ICON spends a great deal of time coming up with vehicle specific tunes for a number of their shocks, but additional performance can be obtained by tweaking the valving if you’ve modified your vehicle significantly from it’s stock form.  You need more damping to control a heavier load, so if you’re regularly packing around several hundred pounds of payload, you could stand to adjust your valving to help better control that load.  Likewise, if you’ve identified that your vehicle’s suspension is doing something that you don’t like, talking with a shock expert like Adrian can help your shock technician recommend valving changes that will correct any problems you may be experiencing.

Once any upgrades, replacement parts, and valving changes have been identified it’s time to get into rebuilding the shock.  New O-Rings and seals are installed along with any replacement parts.  Speaking of parts, just take a minute to check out these pictures to appreciate how much stronger ICON shocks are than OEM shocks.  As a point of reference, the 3.0 shafts are 1.0 inches in diameter which is more than twice the diameter of the factory Toyota TRD units.  Other parts like seal heads, lower eyes, really put it all into prospective just how much these shocks can hold up to.  As we go through this assembly process, Adrian shares with me how some of the unique features of ICON shocks work.

Bump piston and bump cylinder. Note the two sets of ports which meter oil flow out of the bump cylinder.

In the case of 3.0 coilovers, like those found on the Tundra, the shock actually has a second internal piston that works as an internal bump stop.  In the first 60% of the stroke, the bump piston isn’t engaged, and therefore has no impact on damping.  Yet once the shock is more than 60% compressed, the bump piston enters its own cylinder with two sets of bleed ports that significantly restrict the rate at which oil can escape the cylinder, which causes a significant increase in damping.  Should the bump piston move past 80% of the stroke, the number of bleed ports is reduced even further, providing an additional level of damping to help soak up even the biggest of hits.   Speaking from first hand experience, this internal bump system works quite well.  It never gets old hearing passengers start to cringe for an upcoming bump only for the truck to soak it up like it’s hardly even there.  Thanks ICON!

Top out washers unloaded. Note the two thicknesses.
First washer compressed.
Second washer compressed.

On the other end of the shock stroke (top out) ICON has another unique feature in place that helps prevent the harsh bang that can be experienced on other shocks when they reach full extension.  By using two Belleville washers, which are conical washers and a cup similar to the bump cylinder on the 3.0, ICON has created a system that works much like a limit strap.  As the shock starts to top out, the washers enter the cup which restricts oil flow and starts to slow the shaft.  Then the thinner of the washers is compressed to a flat state, which is second level of additional damping.  And finally, the thicker of the two washers compresses to a flat state, which combined with the oil displacement between the two washers creates a progressive top out damper.  In use, this system works so well that you have to recalibrate yourself to recognize when your wheels aren’t on the ground as you no longer have the telltale bang, or feeling of suspension topping out harshly.  This top out system is just one example of the little details that make running ICONs such a leap forward in trail performance.

With everything rebuilt, its time to bleed the shocks with fresh oil and then charge them with nitrogen. Shock oil is like anything else in that it breaks down and loses performance as its used, so having fresh oil in your shock is just like fresh motor oil in your engine – a fresh serving of performance and protection.  Once this is complete, the shocks are functionally like-new shocks, and their performance and feel should be quite close to brand new shocks.  To help the rebuilds look as fresh on the outside as they are on the inside, Adrian adds new stickers as a finishing touch.  Now all that’s left to do is install the shocks back in the truck and enjoy some more years of top shelf performance.

This level of suspension performance does come with a bit of extra maintenance, compared to running an OEM or non-rebuildable shock, but this trade off is a small price to pay for all of the performance you pick up.  Really all that ICON shocks need is to be kept clean, and that’s as simple as using a pressure washer that’s just powerful enough to get the dirt and mud off.  If you live where it snows, coil covers are a great way to keep the crap that melts ice from eating your suspension.  Again, keep things clean and they’ll last you a long time.  Three and a half years into running ICON suspension on the Tundra and I’ve experienced no failures.  Tearing my shocks down did reveal signs of wear, but nothing was in imminent risk of failing.  After the rebuild, all of my shocks are freshened up and ready to go for another few years.  Were I running some kind of OEM shock, I would simply be stuck dealing with continually decreasing levels of performance until I finally caved and shelled out for new shocks, or had something fail on me that forced my hand.

If you’re running any brand of rebuildable shocks on your vehicle that haven’t been serviced in a few years, it might be time to consider getting your suspension freshened up.  Rebuildable shocks should not be used like they’re a consumable product where performance starts new at 100% and then slowly ticks down towards 0%, or a failure sooner.  Get your shocks rebuilt when you notice a change in performance, or you start to notice signs of wear.  Something as simple as new bushings and fresh oil and seals can ensure that you never see performance levels fall more than a few points from new, and having shocks that are operating at 80% – 100% sounds much better than running non-rebuildable shocks from 100% down to 40% or so before you get sick of crappy performance and replace them. 

A good shop can help you identify any changes you want to make to your valving and spot any internal parts that may need replacing – so even if you’re an accomplished wrench, there is value in working with a shock service shop.  Either way, servicing a rebuildable shock is an easy way to ensure that the rad suspension that you invested in continues it’s optimal performance year after year.  We all change our oil when we’re supposed to, so there is no reason that we shouldn’t be changing our suspension oil and other bits on the recommended intervals too.  Not doing so is quite literally leaving performance on the table, and given how good a properly setup and tuned suspension can make a vehicle – it’s a shame not to have it running at it’s peak.

FULL DISCLOSURE: Icon Vehicle Dynamics provided suspension rebuild services at no charge to the author for the purposes of this article.

Utah Winter Adventure – Part I of III

In the past few years, we’ve taken to planning a small annual trip that lasts approximately a week long during the winter time. Destinations are unknowns (new to us) and planned throughout the year as rough locations and POI’s that we would like to hit. Routes in between are roughly formed and there are times where we improvise and have to call an audible.

Our previous trips: Death Valley Expedition 2015 (DVX15) and California Coastal Expedition 2016 (CCX16), and many other small trips to Anza Borrego, Trona, Thomas Mountain and other sites, have really helped us form a template as to how our trips are planned, what works and what doesn’t. Our plan for the winter of 2017 had us traveling from our home base in Southern California through Nevada, Utah, and Arizona. We wanted to utilize as many dirt roads as we could, while also hitting certain POI’s, so hardball wasn’t entirely out of the question. This is what we came up with for our Utah Winter Expedition 2017 (UWX17):

Day 01- A Late Start with a Late Entrance.

After a late start of last minute packing and getting ready, I hit the road about 4pm on my way to the meeting spot just north of Lake Mead. I linked up with Cris and family at the El Cajon Pass McDonald’s right around dinner time for a quick meal. We hit the pavement hard and arrived in the area just before midnight. It was pitch black dark and all we had to navigate by were maps and the GPS point. It took us a little bit to find the exact camp spot, but we eventually found it. Everyone had already called it a night and had gone to sleep, instead of waiting for us, so Cris and I quietly setup camp and called it a night ourselves.

Day 02- A Dusty Blast to a Wrong Whitmore

We awakened to a very chilly morning, but were instantly rewarded with an awesome view of the lake. We had camped in the dark just above the lake shoreline and it paid off now with a spectacular view of the entire area. We had a comfortable start to our day and enjoyed the area while eating breakfast before we set off. We had a driver’s meeting to go over the day’s route, which would be Whitmore Canyon just on the North side of Grand Canyon.

We set off just before noon and headed up to St George, Utah to restock and make last minute meet ups. We made a nice stop at Walmart and had lunch before we proceeded south and hit the dirt. The dirt road in was a good one, dusty but well maintained. We blazed in towards Mt. Trumbull and hit the school house to reconvene since we became so spread out along the way. The wind was nonexistent so our trail of dust was so thick that visibility was near zero in places.

Continuing south as the sun began to set, we took a wrong turn and started gaining elevation instead of dropping down to 1500-ft or so where the overlook is. We doubled back towards the trail split but opted for a nice, safe, open spot along the way since darkness had already arrived, the first of several unplanned audibles on this trip. We set up camp in the dark and started the campfire. A bright moon rose over the mountain as we had dinner, and it would continue illuminate our night skies for the rest of our trip.

Day 03 – New Years Eve at the Correct Whitmore Canyon

We woke up to another sweet view as we camped just a short stroll to a cliff side, which opened up to a beautiful view of the valley below, and the road we were supposed to be at last night. The sun had not yet crested the ridgeline, so the weather was chilly again. It was a calm morning as we had time to explore the immediate area on foot and view the spectacular valley below us. We gathered just after breakfast for a driver’s meeting to make a call on where to go next. The general consensus was to hit the spot that we totally missed the previous night and spend the rest of the day there. It ended up being a great call.

We hit the road around 11am and began the short drive to Whitmore Canyon. The road in was smooth but turned to slow and rocky. It eventually led us to a breathtaking view of a portion of the Grand Canyon. There was a slow, rocky switchback descent into the campsite. Cris and Jon led the way and setup camp as we all made our way down. The camp site was just terrible (read sarcasm)…  It was right on the cliff’s edge above the Colorado River with a 180-degree view. This was a perfect day. We all got settled in, made lunch and relaxed the rest of the day.

After lunch, a few of us relaxed around the fire ring, while Andy and I made the hike down to the bottom and the Colorado River. It was about 45min, 917ft down, and about 1.2miles one way. It was a great little hike to see the river and experience how the views changed as you make your way down. The water was definitely chilly but refreshing. Oddly enough there was a cactus garden right before the water’s edge, so maneuvering to the water was a bit tricky without getting poked by the many needles.

The hike out is always tougher than the hike in, but we got back into camp just before sunset and joined the others relaxing around the fire ring, just in time for appetizers, cold beverages, and dinner.

As the night went on and we were enjoying the campfire, we saw a set of headlights coming down the hill that we rolled in from. We became very hesitant when they rolled straight up to our campfire in the middle of our camp. Two guys walked out, cups in hands and a decent slur in their talk. As they were introducing themselves, and us keeping our distance, a third guy came out as well.

Luckily they just came down to make themselves known and told us that they were going to setup camp not too far away from us. They thought we were someone they knew as they were meeting someone down there. They left our area and rolled about ¼ mile away and setup camp. Later that night as we were still around the campfire, we saw another pair of headlights coming down. We walked out to meet them in a somewhat defensive position so they wouldn’t roll into our camp. They found their friends and we continued our night a little less relaxed. We called it a day as one by one, we left the fire and went to bed.

Day 04 – Attempting to Beat the Setting Sun and Rising Moon

We awoke to a another splendid view with an epic sunrise, so we decided to take another easy morning. We soaked in the rising sun cresting over the canyon as we had breakfast. After a comfortable start, we decided to get our trip on the road again. But before we headed out, we decided to take a group photo of this epic campsite so we staged up on the cliff’s edge, and snapped a few for the books.

 

Once on the way out, we doubled back from where we drove in. We hit the 4-way intersection at the schoolhouse for a quick break around 11am. We reconvened a quick driver’s meeting to discuss the route and the rough area of where we would be heading to. We decided to head east after talking with a local as they said it is much more scenic than double backing the exact way we came in to get back on the highway.

Mt Trumbull Loop was extremely scenic with a steady incline in elevation. Once we hit the top, we drove along the ridgeline for a bit until it opened up into flatlands and a nice wide-open fire road. Once we hit Antelope Valley Rd, we hit the gas and zoomed our way back to Highway 389, a very smooth and great driving road. Definitely one of the better dirt roads of the trip thus far. We aired up before we hit the pavement and we hit it hard towards Kanab for our late lunch.

Once we entered Kanab, we decided to hit up a burger joint which was VERY good. After filling our bellies, we all split off for different errands to run and decided to rendezvous at the market before we hit the road again.

We hopped onto the road after a long but relaxing pitstop as the sun was beginning to set. Jon had a site set in his mind, so we followed him up Hwy 89 to Hancock Road towards the Pink Coral Sand Dunes. We drove around a bit through a very scenic fire service road with a full moon rising over on the east, and the sun setting in the west. He found a spot, but it was small and along a hillside. Not very spacious for all of us to camp in. I scouted around being tail-gunner on offshoot paths we had passed but couldn’t find a tangible spot for us all to camp in comfortably.

With night falling very quickly, we double backed to the main road and found a campsite along the road from which we came in. It was a large spot and about fifty yards off the road with good cover. We were happy with this spot so we setup camp and enjoyed the night while waiting for Brian to link up with us that night.

To be continued in Part II…