Scott B.'s Little Guy Offroad Teardrop Build

[Scott B.]

Start of Kitchen Build

We've slept in the teardrop a total of 9 nights, and have cooked many meals utilizing the unfinished kitchen. We have developed a plan as to how we would things to be arranged, and it's time to start.

The kitchen as delivered:

The Plan

Ideally, we would like to keep the counter free of permanently mounted items. It is a very nice work surface, and quite roomy.

The storage area will contain 2 columns of drawers. The left side will have the stove (on a pull-out/swing-out shelf - I have a really cool idea, I hope it works!) and a drawer. There will be either an open area or a small drawer above the stove. (Not what we want, but due to the depth of the stove, and the shallowness of the space, the stove will be mounted several inches lower than we want.) The right side will have 2 or 3 drawers - not finalized yet. Also, to the right of the drawer columns will be a storage slot for the water can.

Small items will go in the shelf compartment above the countertop. We have some ideas for a storage system - to be built after the drawers.

The Build

I need flat, vertical sides to mount the drawer slides to. As the TD sits, I do not have any. From the center divider, I removed the trim strip. This gives me flat surfaces to mount the drawer slides.

I need to extend that piece to the tailgate.

Also, the sides are not flush with the tailgate opening. Here, I need to build and fit a vertical "wall".

I made some templates, glued a piece of poplar to 1/2" birch plywood, and cut to fit.

I didn't get a picture of the wall panel with the curve cut - I will post one tomorrow.

I chose to add the poplar to the plywood for appearance. I opted to hide the end grain.

 

[Scott B.]

Here's the side panel after being trimmed.

Today, I glued up an extension for the center divider and added standoffs to the side panel, to position it correctly to allow the drawer slides clear the tailgate lip. (The center divider looks funny because I used some scrap pieces - all will be fine once I cut it to fit.)

Here you can see the side panel with the standoffs sitting in the correct place. After varnishing, I will screw this panel to the side of the teardrop.

 

[Scott B.]

The center divider is complete, minus a pocket screw hole or two to attach to the floor.

Now to start the drawers!

 

[Scott B.]

I put 3 coats of varnish on the end panel and center divider, and got them mounted. In addition to biscuits, I also used 2 pocket screws (to the floor) to hold the center divider straight.

The kitchen area really looks different with the dividers in place. I am really anxious to get all the drawers installed!

Next, I built the drawer (actually, sliding tray) that will mount the stove. The sides are held together using a lock joint, and the top is rabbited sitting in a rabbit along the tops of the side pieces. (Sorry, no before picture.)

I ordered full extension drawer slides - now to get it mounted.

 

[Scott B.]

Today, I fine tuned the fit of the drawer slide and installed the slides! We now have a working stove pullout!

Installing a slide:

The working pullout:

The lazy susan bearing that will allow the stove to pivot out:

I set the stove on the bearing, and it looks like it will work how we want it to. I will fit it tomorrow.

In the meantime, I glued a second piece of 1/2" plywood to the under side of the pullout. I am going to inlet the bearing into the plywood, to allow the stove to sit almost flush on the pullout, so I wanted to reinforce the supporting surface. Seeing as this TD will go off-road, I am trying to make things as resistant to vibration problems as possible.

 

[Scott B.]

I pulled the router out this morning and recessed a spot for the lazy susan bearing.

Since it will not be seen, I decided to just cut it by hand and not use any jigs - hence the ragged edges!

I put 2 coats of varnish on the drawer. Tomorrow, I will sand it and put a 3rd coat on.

Then, mount the stove!

 

[Scott B.]

More work on the stove pull-out.

Varnished.

Marking the stove base for the lazy susan attachment holes.

Test fitting

Storage position:

Out:

Swiveled:

It works!

I need to bolt it up permanently - I ran out of light tonight.

I am also going to remove the handle from the front of the stove. It just drags on the pull-out, and I don't need it.

 

[Scott B.]

Auxillary 12V Wiring

Since I don't have a battery on the trailer, I needed a way to power the trailer from the 2nd battery in the truck, rather than the main battery (through the 7-pin connector.)

Little Guy ran their normal battery wire from the forward battery location to the terminal block (located in the trailer body.) Here, you can see the ground and +12 (with the fuse holder.)

I decided to use this wire, and change the end to a quick-disconnect.

I added a similar connection on my truck, originating at the 2nd battery.

I kept both the truck harness connector and the trailer harness connector short - too short to attach when the trailer is connected to the truck. I want to ensure that only one of the connectors will be connected at a time. No harm will occur if both are attached, but my batteries will then not be isolated.

I have a 20' extension that goes between the vehicles. Another advantage here is the trailer does not need to be attached to the truck to have power.

 

[Scott B.]

I am building the top and bottom drawers (for the left side.)

Construction is the same as the stove slide.

The top drawer is not very deep (front to back) due to the curvature of the rear hatch. It looks to be plenty big for utensils and the like.

I am in the process of building fixed dividers in the lower drawer. I should be finished this weekend.

 

[Scott B.]

I finished the top drawer today. Though it is a little small, it fits really nice above the stove. It should be sized right for holding utensils and such.

And with the stove in place:

I built some dividers for the bottom drawer to hold propane.

 

[Scott B.]

I fit the bottom drawer today. If you look close and the bottom edge, you will see where I had to make an allowance for the footman loop on the floor of the TD.

All that remains is to varnish the drawer and decide whether or to add drawer fronts - and if so, what will they look like.

 

[Scott B.]

I installed the pump in the Scepter water can lid.

Original lid:

Spout cut off:

Hole bored:

Pump installed:

Now to figure out how to mount it in the back of the TD...

 

[Scott B.]

We spent 2 nights camping at Mt. Pisgah over the 4th. The kitchen is almost 1/2 done, but what was there worked great. The swiveling stove in really, really nice.

I was able to complete the bottom drawer before the trip, and get the bottle opener installed.

Here is a shot cooking breakfast:

 

[Scott B.]

Water Can Tie Down

As you saw from the previous pictures, the water can is not tied down to anything. I have been jamming towels around it and the Action Packer to keep them from moving around - but this would not work very well off-road.

As I may have noted before, I had to secure the water can before I could mount the vertical divider for the right side drawer stack (to make sure I left enough room for the water can.)

Here is right side of the kitchen:

I decided to use a Quick Fist strap to secure the WC. They are strong, durable and easy to use.

First, I built a spacer to mount to the side of the trailer the same size as the bottom corner block. This spacer will contain/mount the strap also.

Installed:

The hook end installed:

A close-up of the hook. I opened and shortened a stainless steel eye loop, and slid a piece of PVC tubing over it.

The result:

For those wondering what the cutouts in the spacer block are for:

It is a Lodge dinner bell triangle! We saw this in Cabela's one day, and thought it would be fun in the teardrop. There are some times on the trail when we cook for the group. This will be much easier than yelling or going to everyone's camp!

With the can secured, I mounted the vertical drawer-support panel.

Now, to build the remaining drawers!

 

[Scott B.]

I built and installed 2 drawers over the weekend.

The top and bottom ones are the same size as the left side ones, so I built those first. The middle one will be the size of the pullout-stove combination. I thought to get the sizing correct, it would be easier to build/install the top and bottom ones, then measure for the middle.

In retrospect, not necessarily. I will build the 3rd drawer this weekend.

You can see we are also starting to lay out the top shelf organizer. We picked up fabric (duck cloth) over the weekend, so the sewing should start very soon.

 

[Scott B.]

I built the last drawer yesterday! They are getting varnished now, and will be ready to go in a day or so!

Now to trim the drawer fronts...

We have also started on the storage pouches. I will post pictures as soon as there is something to see.

 

[Scott B.]

I started the electrical upgrades on the TD.

The plan is to add a switch panel inside for additional interior lighting and one in the kitchen area for work and night lighting.

What I started with:

Inside

Kitchen

Taking things apart:

Inside

The existing box turned out to be a little too narrow to comfortably accommodate the Blue Sea switch panels I wanted to use.

Seeing how the existing 12V ports were wired, and knowing what I was adding, I needed some more parts.

The first thing to do was cut a hole to mount the kitchen switch panel.

Test fit.

Next, drilled holes for the 12V port and USB charger port.

 

[Scott B.]

Here is the kitchen side, with all components (minus lights) installed.

 

[Scott B.]

Inside, I build a new box. Similar in style to the original, but slightly wider. Also, the construction design is a little different.

A base block:

A top block:

With kitchen components installed:

With side panels installed:

The side panels each contain a USB charger port.

The face panel (to be built) will contain the switch panel and a 12V port.

 

[Scott B.]

Taking a break from wiring, I installed a set of Yakima roof racks.

Until recently, Little Guy used a different brand of racks that bolted to the side of the teardrop. However, the 5x8 did not have much room on the sides to mount the mounting brackets. (Actually, I was initially planning on using Yakima Side Loaders - but they did not fit either.)

LG has started bolting Yakima sliding tracks to the roof of the TDs. I bought the racks from LG, and they came with mounting instructions. (I wanted their instructions, since I did not know where the cross bracing was positioned, and how strong it was.)

Here's what I started with:

Parts

Teardrop roof

After laying out the rail position according to the LG instructions, I decided the rail position was not optimum. They had it positioned too far toward the rear of the trailer. Given that position, it would be very difficult to carry a load horizontally - and, if I could, the bar spacing would be minimal at best.

I opted to move the rail forward. I transferred their measurements to my new position, and found the additional cross braces I needed. Then, installation proceeded as specified.

The result

Overall, we are very happy with the racks. As it sits, there is a 28" space between the rails. Not the ideal 30 - 36, but should be sufficient for our plans.