Power Wagon Build

wesel123

Adventurist
Founding Member
Changing the thread title. Figured this was a good start.

We have a trip coming up next week to Flagstaff and am looking for a quick way to bring power to my power pack in the back of the PW.

Could I tap off the trailer charge wire off the back of the seven way plug. Add a fuse and a 12v outlet and call it a day?

Not looking to power a ton of stuff, just a fridge and cell phone charger.

Thoughts?

Other option was to add a powered fuse box under the hood and running cable to the rear. Not really wanting to get that complicated though.
 
Last edited:
No.

If you want power back there, a fridge and say 2.5 amps for a tablet (let’s just say 5-6 amps total), do it right the first time. Run some 8 gauge wire (fused at the battery) back there along the frame rail and install a proper Blue Sea type 12v plug and one of their high power USB’s.

Done son. You’ll be glad you did :D
 
I was reading your mind already. Just got back from the Depot with 25 ft of red and 25ft of black.

I have a 6 fuse Blue Sea box that I'll throw in. Just trying to figure out what relay I need to "switch" on the the fuse box.
 
Last edited:
Make sure you fuse it up front AT the battery!

I’d recommend a simple battery cutoff switch to control power to your Blue Seas fuse block. Simple and durable.

C4330788-7099-473E-81DE-020231989687.jpeg
 
Going to put in a 4 pin 30a relay in lieu of the switch. The water proof panel I purchased has a switch on it.
 
Had to mount to the factory fuse box cover as I can't seem to find a pre-fab'd base. I'll make one up in the next few weeks but this will get me by until then.

Waiting for the 12v plugs for the bed to show up tomorrow but finished the relay and fuse box. Will run 8 ga. Wire to the rear tomorrow as well as mount the plugs.

30amp relay off of a 30amp main fuse. Will use 20amp fuse to feed the rear. Can't drill into the fuse box cover as the legend is on the other side. Used 3m tape and Plastic weld for now. Again until I source a proper plate to mount everything.

Would like to also source a relay that has screw terminals in lieu of spade connections, any one have a source for something like that?


20200525_203954.jpg
 
Ran 8ga. wire (oil and gas resistant). Damn I'm getting old, that absolutely was a pain I'm the butt.

Cut in the waterproof panel. Up and running, just need a better set up under the hood. Held up all the way to work no problems, but it looks hooky.


20200526_214616.jpg
20200526_215659.jpg
 
Eezi Awn all mounted up. Strange how my camping set up has come full circle and over 13 years to refine....lol. Seems as though I can never settle.

Next up is the awning. I have my old Fiamma 35 and some Gamviti removable mounts to install.
20200713_140734_03.jpg
 
Today's project was installing the BC35 Garmin "backup camera" in the grill of the PW. The Garmin Overlander supports the Garmin backup cameras. I figured I need to see over the hood of this pig so my backup camera is now a forward facing camera.

Pretty basic install, hardest part was getting the transmitter close enough to the Overlander to get a good signal.

Very happy with the results.

20200720_144904.jpg
20200720_144917.jpg
20200720_192822.jpg
 
Thanks!

The travel trailer is an Outdoors RV 21 RBS. These are overly built trailers similar to Artic Fox. They build their own frames unlike 90% of the other trailer manufacturers. And are true 4 season build quality with 2" bonded walls with Aluminum frame structure. They are like a "cabin" on wheels, built to take down forest roads.

This one will be going on the market soon as we are going to upgrade to a Outdoors RV 23 Dual Bunk House. We use this trailer to travel but more importantly it's got a spot on our small piece of property that we can park it on. Needed the bunks and we have a 14 year old and 2 year old that don't want to share the dinette in the 21 footer......did I mention that they are both girls....I'm so screwed!
20200627_165247.jpg
20200627_165221.jpg
20200627_165306.jpg
20200627_165439.jpg
20200627_165435.jpg
20200627_165447.jpg
 
Hey gents need an opinion on the TopperLift.

My issue is with bring my WR250R with me on trips. The bike with my mirrors folded/removed (I have Double Take mirrors) will fit inside the shell but I cannot "load it". I have since installed a Bedside thinking I could pull the slide out, load the bike and slide it back in. Although my RDL shell may have the room inside it doesn't allow the bike to get past the hatch opening. So in lieu of getting a "taller" shell I was thinking of using the Topper lift, essentially extend the top, load the bike and drop the top down.

Also would like to know the reliability of the Topper system. Will it hold up to off road use?

Thoughts?
 
Last edited:
Hey gents need an opinion on the TopperLift.

My issue is with bring my WR250R with me on trips. The bike with my mirrors folded/removed (I have Double Take mirrors) will fit inside the shell but I cannot "load it". I have since installed a Bedside thinking I could pull the slide out, load the bike and slide it back in. Although my RDL shell may have the room inside it doesn't allow the bike to get past the hatch opening. So in lieu of getting a "taller" shell I was thinking of using the Topper lift, essentially extend the top, load the bike and drop the top down.

Also would like to know the reliability of the Topper system. Will it hold up to off road use?

Thoughts?
I like the idea of them, but have not seen many in the wild and never heard any real feedback on them.
 
Back
Top Bottom