Otto - The Tundra

#41
All masked off for bedliner.


Sprayed! I used a Scholtz gun I had, It's for bedliner and undercoating, but Raptor's gun must be much smaller orifice. Holy crap did I go thru it QUICK. Its only one coat, but does seem to be well coated.... 4 liters are supposed to do a full size truck bed, two coats.... I used two on this.

Wait till it just sets up a little and peel tape!


 
#44
And drawer is installed! It fits great, my filler panel fits, and its not super heavy. Id bet 100lbs maybe. I can move it myself reasonably easy, its just awkward.

First I had to finish the latch and strike. Glued and screwed in place. Latch is offset to add a webbing pull on the other side.


Then added some brackets to hold the filler panel, just some scrape aluminum.


Four bolts in the back, sealant on them, then a coat of paint for good measure too. Two in the front, from the top, didn't take pic...


And WaLa! Works great!!



Filler fits good.


Cubby below, house battery will likely go there.


Tight to the tail gate. About 1/8" there.





VOTE TIME: Fridge here or in the cab? Oh and new DFG Made in the USA aluminum slide. Nice little piece.

 
#49
Let me just start hat I get it, canopy installs are done by the low paid employees..... But holy shit. I hate sloppy installers....

Issue 1, the canopy pinches the factory tie downs, they moved them a little, and put the canopy on. They are now fixed in place...... Ask me if I want to just remove them!
Issue 2. Vampire taps. Really???? And get the wring wire the first time and leave a bite in the wire?
Issue 3. There is a "fuse box" and disconnect in the corner. The door on the fuse box is supposed to be able to open.... It was at a funky angle and hit the side, cant open. Once pried open is has USB ports?! But guess what isn't connected to anything.....
Annnnd they ran a wire to the cab for the lock, and used exactly ZERO zip ties..... Its just running along under the bed, supported kinda by some cross members, across hard edges, etc. Tha'ts gonna take some doing....

Come on, at least add some tape??


Fixed.


A little spacer and moving the bracket up a bit made the fuse box usable. Ill wire the usb up once I get my house battery figured out.
 

Greg

Adventurist
Senior Staff
#50
Let me just start hat I get it, canopy installs are done by the low paid employees..... But holy shit. I hate sloppy installers....

Issue 1, the canopy pinches the factory tie downs, they moved them a little, and put the canopy on. They are now fixed in place...... Ask me if I want to just remove them!
Issue 2. Vampire taps. Really???? And get the wring wire the first time and leave a bite in the wire?
Issue 3. There is a "fuse box" and disconnect in the corner. The door on the fuse box is supposed to be able to open.... It was at a funky angle and hit the side, cant open. Once pried open is has USB ports?! But guess what isn't connected to anything.....
Annnnd they ran a wire to the cab for the lock, and used exactly ZERO zip ties..... Its just running along under the bed, supported kinda by some cross members, across hard edges, etc. Tha'ts gonna take some doing....

Come on, at least add some tape??


Fixed.


A little spacer and moving the bracket up a bit made the fuse box usable. Ill wire the usb up once I get my house battery figured out.
When I got my cap I told them not to wire it and that I would do it myself.
 

Greg

Adventurist
Senior Staff
#52
That would have been a good call....
This will work on a 2010+ Tundra. Just disconnect the harness from 7 pin trailer plug and add it in between. Electric brakes and 12V auxiliary lights can be spliced into if you need to.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007EA6WQU

Or maybe even re-purpose a gooseneck t-connector. (this would work on a Tacoma too)
https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Toyota/Tundra/2019/PK11893-11932.html

Repair the vampire taps as best as you can I guess.
 
#53
This will work on a 2010+ Tundra. Just disconnect the harness from 7 pin trailer plug and add it in between. Electric brakes and 12V auxiliary lights can be spliced into if you need to.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007EA6WQU

Or maybe even re-purpose a gooseneck t-connector. (this would work on a Tacoma too)
https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Toyota/Tundra/2019/PK11893-11932.html

Repair the vampire taps as best as you can I guess.
Yes thats a great tap spot! I wish the trailer was constant 12v.

It's fine behind the tail light at this point. All cleaned up....

I need to get house batt done. It's just $$
 
#54
Fridge is in the back.... Cut starboard spacers, get it up over the ridges, and the tailgate. Latch barely drags on the tailgate now. May add a little more spacer if needed.






now do I temporarily wire it to the start battery or hold my horses till I get the house wiring done? Hmmmmm.....
 
#56
Fridge is in the back.... Cut starboard spacers, get it up over the ridges, and the tailgate. Latch barely drags on the tailgate now. May add a little more spacer if needed.






now do I temporarily wire it to the start battery or hold my horses till I get the house wiring done? Hmmmmm.....



Are you going to build a Jerry can water spigot?
 

Greg

Adventurist
Senior Staff
#57
Fridge is in the back.... Cut starboard spacers, get it up over the ridges, and the tailgate. Latch barely drags on the tailgate now. May add a little more spacer if needed.






now do I temporarily wire it to the start battery or hold my horses till I get the house wiring done? Hmmmmm.....
That's a really nice drawer system.
 
#59
Install day finally came! Had a bit of help and it took us 5 hours 58 minutes from the time the truck got pulled in. We weren't really rushing, but the heat killed us.

Working on a new truck is AMAZING. No rust, not much road grime even! Once the fastener was loose you could spin it off by hand even! Clean threads are amazing.




Font In, taking the upper UCA off made it easy to drop the in CO in. Swapped to the SPC ones. Had to disconnect the sway bar to get just a wee bit more droop.


And this was the only issue with the kit. The resi line must run outboard and forward on the CO's. They were both assembled the same way, so one needed to be flipped. Was not possible without breaking the flex line, so the top cap had to be removed. Off to the store for a 12mm Allen wrench, but simple.


Rear end all free. Leafs are heavy. I am not super wild about how the OME kits does the brake line extensions, it simply raises them up off the axle. Seems like a spot to catch sticks etc..... Maybe find some longer replacement hoses.


Forgot to take pics.... But all back together.


Now onto the wheels. More sidewall is better IMO, so I downsized to a 17". They clear, but barely. They have a bit less backspace than I anticipated, but I think I can live with it. Make a bit more rubbing in the front, and a little more poke than I would normally run, but it was the only BS option in the 17"


Wee bit of poke...
 
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