Maximum Articulation on the AZBDR (M101 + Jeep LJ)

Dean

Adventurist
Founding Member
#1
After Overland Expo West this year I took a short detour to see a dentist (who turned out to be more or a dental monitor) in Phoenix. To get back on track I realized my route would overlap with a section of the Arizona Backcountry Discovery Route (Section 5 between Globe and Young to be exact).

As with most BDR's, the route was a combination of paved backroads and dirt FSR's. This particular section started off pretty mild and soon got rather intense since recent flooding had washed out certain sections. This one particular section put my trailer's stock socket-and-ball hitch to maximum articulation (if not a little bit past it). I've been putting off getting an off-road coupler for a while because I could never really justify one... now I can.

Entering the Wash:



Maximum Articulation:



Exiting the Wash:



For the most part the trailer preformed admirably. Being spring under meant a low center of gravity. The aftermarket axle has the same WMS width as the Jeep so it tracked perfectly behind the Jeep. Despite the overall size (compared to smaller M416 style overland trailers) I had zero issues other than the above pic (which aren't the trailer's fault) and one small dent (which I'll blame my spotters). One issue was the tongue did bottom out over some of the whoops. A quick remedy for this would be a skid-plate or a cheater-wheel built into the tongue to help it glide/roll over the whoop rather than drag. Probably something I'll add when I extend the tongue and add the tongue box.
 
#2
I use the max-coupler on mine so I don't have articulation problems, but I have pulled the tongue through the muck a time or two. I'll have to think about that skid-plate/cheater-wheel idea...
 

Dean

Adventurist
Founding Member
#3
I use the max-coupler on mine so I don't have articulation problems, but I have pulled the tongue through the muck a time or two. I'll have to think about that skid-plate/cheater-wheel idea...
Trying to decide between the max-coupler, the lock-n-roll, or a DIY/homebrew one.
 
#4
I had the same debate and ended up going with the max-coupler based on some reviews I read way back when. It has been bulletproof and rock solid. Haven't regretted the purchase one bit.
 

Grumps

Adventurist
Founding Member
#5
I also used the max-coupler on my trailers and would again. It can be a little cumbersome to connect but is super quiet when towing.

-Andy
 
#9
@Dean if you want to design something for that skid plate, tote your trailer over to my barn after AAV and we can weld it up. Send me the specs so I can make sure I have the metal, or bring it with you.
 

Dean

Adventurist
Founding Member
#10
@Dean if you want to design something for that skid plate, tote your trailer over to my barn after AAV and we can weld it up. Send me the specs so I can make sure I have the metal, or bring it with you.
I'll keep that in mind if I don't address the issue before then.
 
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