Groundhog Day on the Georgia Traverse

Bryanseye

Adventurist
South Carolina's Cherokee Foothills Highway always tempts me with its slow curves, easy hills, and soft edged skyline to the north. It is easy to be lulled into comfort, forgetting that those southern mountains just on the other side of the dormant hardwoods rise abruptly and mark the boundary of a vast mountain range. I would not be complacent this morning as the radio told me that the groundhog saw its shadow. No matter, it was already cold by our standards, getting colder, and I was headed to the beginning of the Georgia Traverse.

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The route, developed by David Giguere of George Overland, leads you across the top of Georgia from South Carolina to Alabama with an aversion to pavement. A group of us set off on Friday afternoon from a South Carolina campground and made our way through rhododendron choked hills, along the Chattooga River, and out to occasional pasture land. Travel was easy going with plenty of scenic distractions, and recent rains kept the dust down so that everyone in the convoy could share, but the occasional fallen tree or ditch would bring needed attention back to the road.

A few hours into the trip we met our first obstacle; a forest service gate had blocked this section of the route (FS32C off Patterson Gap Road for anyone making the trip). No worries, a brief study of a map of the surrounding area found an easy detour and we descended to the Tallulah River. What fun that was! Granted, it is an established fording spot with a firm, rocky bottom, but the long diagonal upstream crossing through water just deep enough to bring the word "hydrolock" to the front of your mind made this an entertaining splash across the river. We then made camp at an established site as the shadows cast by recent fire charred trees grew long.

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It was a cold night, somewhere in the teens depending on who you ask, but everyone was in great spirits the next morning. We warmed up with coffee and calories and got back on the route. The morning passed by as we crushed ice beneath our tires in the damp, dense Dick's Creek area followed by an ascent to Tray Mountain. The mountain was a fun climb and we said hi to a few others enjoying the mild challenge. Afterwards we were forced back onto pavement for a run over the pass before jumping back across a stream and into the forest. It was already getting late and we found a campsite before dark.

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Around 2am the rain started to fall. I have always been one to find rain in a tent mostly relaxing, but there is that small part of me that keeps thinking we have sprung a leak. Well past reveille it didn't sound like it was going to stop, so with rain gear deployed I was out to make coffee under the awning.

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The weather let up just as we were breaking camp and we were treated to a hike down to a very healthy, rain-fed waterfall. It was our last moment on the dirt, and a great ending to the trip that made the cold, damp morning more endearing. The drive out of the mountains was picturesque with the Appalachian fog clinging to the empty spaces between icicle covered cliffs. A brief lunch of brats and kraut in Helen was a fine choice before finding interstate and heading home.

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This trip was my first to the area, and my first use of a GPS app. I used Gaia on a large screen Android phone that has become my mini-tablet with wifi only. The gpx files from Georgia Overland and Gaia maps were very easy to follow and I only missed a few turns (maybe I was daydreaming) but quickly identified the error and corrected easily. I used a magnetic mount and was surprised how well it did. Several rough sections of road and a few big bumps climbing an obstacle on Tray Mtn. never let the phone go, but I could easily remove it when needed.

My 20 degree bag was not enough for the weather we faced, and I am a slightly cold sleeper. A few handwarmers thrown in did wonders and were like an alarm clock after their 7 hour expiration.

What I described covered just over the first 1/3rd of the entire route, and there are a few other loops and sideroads that can extend your stay further.

Finally, everything is better with friends. I had the pleasure of travelling with a great group.


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Awesome story, glad you had a good trip. Now...where was I when that AAV sticker with the fuel/fire/air became available? I'm not generally a sticker/patch officiado but that one is pretty cool, needs to be slapped on the side of my reefer.
 
Awesome story, glad you had a good trip. Now...where was I when that AAV sticker with the fuel/fire/air became available? I'm not generally a sticker/patch officiado but that one is pretty cool, needs to be slapped on the side of my reefer.

That made its debut at 36 Hours of Uwharrie and Appalachian Rendezvous

:cool:
 
Thanks for that trip report. I have always enjoyed the Georgia Traverse trails. The scenic views along the route are worth taking the extra time to enjoy.

-Andy
 
Thank you for taking the time to do the write up. The Georgia Traverse is on my short list, I have heard 90% can be done by high clearance, non 4x4 trucks. I would like to go scout some of the questionable areas but I live 10 hours away. I would then have to return another time to finish. I am not one to skip sections unless I absolutely have to. North Georgia is a beautiful part of the country for sure.
 
Thank you for taking the time to do the write up. The Georgia Traverse is on my short list, I have heard 90% can be done by high clearance, non 4x4 trucks. I would like to go scout some of the questionable areas but I live 10 hours away. I would then have to return another time to finish. I am not one to skip sections unless I absolutely have to. North Georgia is a beautiful part of the country for sure.

What you've heard is correct. Actually up until about 4 years ago you could do the entire thing in 2wd. There is a 40 yard long section of Trey Mountain that has eroded away over the past several years and hasn't seen any maintenance from the forest service. You'll need 4wd there. If there have been recent rains, like the torrential downpour that's happening out the front door right now, there are other sections of the traverse where 4WD will be needed. Parts of Tray, Charlie's Creek, Warwoman and areas in the Cohutta's can still be wet, muddy and slippery for up to a week after it rains, especially when the leaves are on the trees to keep the sun off the mud.

There are some optional sections of the Traverse (like many of the off shoots on Tray) where 4WD is a must. On Tray these areas have some of the best camping. I definitely recommend a good GPS program, an up to date GPS track and some common sense when on the Traverse. There are many areas where people have been forging their own paths off of the forest service roads on the Traverse and causing huge damage to the forest and surrounding ecosystems. In recent years the forest service budget has only allowed for paper signs tacked to trees asking people not to leave the road. This has been less than effective.

If Bell Mountain is still part of the Traverse (haven't looked at a recent version) it is no longer the difficult trail it once was. The county paved the road all the way to the top and made the overlook a tourist attraction. This was once one of the toughest trails in North Georgia.
 
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Thank you for your assessment. While I am not opposed to bypasses, I don't want to miss the spirit and thrills of the trail. I certainly do not endorse or condone cutting through the forest to avoid them. Perhaps Old Blue and I will stay in the flat and sugary sands of the Ocala NF. I will do more research and look at the specific areas you mention and see what can be done to avoid them. Perhaps the alternatives are just as interesting. I do love the sights in N. GA.
 
Thank you for your assessment. While I am not opposed to bypasses, I don't want to miss the spirit and thrills of the trail. I certainly do not endorse or condone cutting through the forest to avoid them. Perhaps Old Blue and I will stay in the flat and sugary sands of the Ocala NF. I will do more research and look at the specific areas you mention and see what can be done to avoid them. Perhaps the alternatives are just as interesting. I do love the sights in N. GA.
I would recommend the following bypass to avoid going over Tray Mountain. There is one tricky spot but no way around it and you would have to back down to a turnaround spot. It is not difficult depending on vehicle, but as you claim a long wheel base "one wheel drive," it might give you some trouble. If you want to visit the top, the back side of the Tray Mountain road is much more maintained and you can drive up to a parking area. We passed a Ford Fusion coming that direction whose driver was interested if it got much worse on the other side. He was advised to turn around at the top as we didn't like the idea of his ripped open oil pan.

The bypass takes you to Helen, a nice spot to stop for a bite anyway, and the rest of the route that we did should give you no problems and is very enjoyable.

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Most of our time, elevation, and distance occurred on this leg (noted by the tall peak on this graph). Skipping it will get you greater distance and see some things that we did not. We were a large train, and the winter made for short daylight. Due to our footprint, with kids, we opted for late starts and early camps, really averaging 6 hours of travel not including stops. Definitely a case of "your mileage may vary."

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356 into Helen is a nice drive past Unicoi lake. One could even stop for a hike up to Anna Ruby Falls:

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Or stop in at the Unicoi Lodge if they have something interesting going on. If there aren't any events happening it's really just a large building with a great breakfast buffet and dinner buffet (depending on what time you drive past) but nothing much else to see there.

If you wanted to add some dirt to this bypass take the left onto Bean Creek which is a dirt path between 356 and 255. There are a couple of small water features to see as the road snakes alongside Bean Creek. Toward the end of the road it will become paved again and dump you out onto 255 where you can take a left and head up to see the Stovall Covered Bridge.

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Continue on 255 past the bridge until you see Hub Tatum Rd on the right. Take this dirt road and then turn right on Lynch Mountain Rd (also dirt) for some great views of the Sautee Valley. This will dump you back out onto 255 right behind the Old Sautee Store:

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And the Sautee Nacoochee Center:

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The old Sautee Store is a mix of tourist trap type items, camping and North Face gear and some great historical stuff from when this building was used as a general store / post office / gathering place. The Sautee Nacoochee Center is an old school house turned museum. They have some great exhibits explaining the history of the valley, the nearby Indian Mound and the area around Helen. Plenty of old photos, artifacts and a rebuilt slave cabin. Very cool place to check out if you're into history.

After visiting these spots take highway 17 toward Helen and you'll have the chance to see the Indian Mound and the Hardman Farm Historic Site. I toured the Hardman Farm years ago when it was still privately owned and not open to the public. I haven't been since it was turned over to the state and made into a historic site. I imagine they have some cool history about the farm, Captain James Nichols (he built the farm and named Anna Ruby Falls after his daughter) and the surrounding area. After that you can head toward Helen, check out Nora Mill on your way and grab lunch at the Nacoochee Village or in Helen and get back on track with the traverse. If you end up making a day of things in this area (as one easily can, especially if you've never visited before) there's camping on the easy side of Tray Mountain just north of Helen, an established campground with great water features (Andrews Cove Campground, open seasonally) just north of Helen on the Unicoi Turnpike, or camping right on the Chattahoochee River at Low Gap Campground out Chattahoochee River Rd (also a great dirt path through the forest north of Helen).

And now I'm itching to go drive through these areas...guess I figured out what I'm doing today...it's time to go fire up the motorcycle.
 
WOW! Thanks for the information. See, it make sense to ask the pros. Either way its a win-win. I love this part of America. I am eager to go explore it. I know in 3 years, I will have all the time in the world.

Bryanseye, what tracking software allows you to look at your trail like that, with the graph of elevation vs speed? GAIA?

Gallowbraid, thanks for the diversions. I enjoy stopping at all those "off the beaten path" locations. It really helps to make the journey complete.
 
WOW! Thanks for the information. See, it make sense to ask the pros. Either way its a win-win. I love this part of America. I am eager to go explore it. I know in 3 years, I will have all the time in the world.

Bryanseye, what tracking software allows you to look at your trail like that, with the graph of elevation vs speed? GAIA?

Gallowbraid, thanks for the diversions. I enjoy stopping at all those "off the beaten path" locations. It really helps to make the journey complete.
Yes, Gaia. This was my first time using it, and only second time paying for an app, but worth every penny. The app is free by the way, but a paid subscription allows you to download maps which is vital to this area.
 
Yes, Gaia. This was my first time using it, and only second time paying for an app, but worth every penny. The app is free by the way, but a paid subscription allows you to download maps which is vital to this area.

I use Gaia exclusively and have paid for the subscription. I like how it integrates the different maps so I don't have to go and download each of them individually and link them. I had no idea it would make graphs. Must be available online. My altitudes don't change much here in flat Florida though.
 
Lots of great info above.

Just to add a real-time update: the rough section near Tray Mountain is still closed as of yesterday (April 14, 2018) .

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The Forest Service says its temporary. Their website/facebook page is a little unclear, so I took a look while I was in the neighborhood.

Still a great area, and plenty of primitive sites if you look around.
 
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