Family Camping Setup

Nuclear Redneck

Nuclear Redneck

Adventurist
Looking for some advice. I currently have a 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited and a homebuilt trailer with two RTTs which I use for camping. Seeing Dave's build is making me rethink what I want to have. I've no intention of selling the Jeep. It just isn't as comfortable for long distance travel on the highway to get to where I want to camp.

My goals:

1) Carry 2 adults, two kids (8 and 6 years old) plus a 80 lbs mutt into the great outdoors for at least a week without resupply.
2) I want to be able to be sleeping or cooking within 10 minutes of finding a good camping spot.
3) I want a dedicated camping vehicle. I think. I had a Chaser trailer; should never have sold it. But, I'm not sure it is the best solution for me this time around.
4) I want the ability to tow toys (a boat, or bikes, or motorcycles) but not be tied to a trailer if I just want to get out for the weekend.
5) I want a heated space with at least makeshift seating for everyone in case the weather gets nasty. Indoor cooking, at least a burner, would be a plus.
6) I want to be able to go down say the road to the Racetrack in Death Valley, but not the Lippincott Road. I hope that helps you picture my desired capabilities.
7) I will spend most of my time west of the Mississippi.
8) I will take whatever rig I have to Alaska in the next 2-3 years.
9) I want a range of 300 miles off pavement.
10) I want the ability to self-extract; I think a winch and traction aids should be sufficient.

I think that a modern 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck with a flatbed Four Wheels Camper would be a good solution. I am open to other ideas though.

As far as prices go, I find myself in a good place and I can afford the latest that Dodge or Ford produces plus a loaded FWC Flatbed. I'm not sure if that represents the best bang for my buck or not.

Based on your experience, what would you recommend?
Would it be better to start with a chassis cab?
Would you recommend one brand over another?
Any ideas on which factory options are better than others?
Diesel or gas?

As you might have guessed, I'm still figuring this out. I'm in the Navy, stationed in San Diego, and due to my ship's schedule will not be able to use this rig until next summer. So I'm not in rush, but I do want to get my thoughts together and figure out what I want to do. Of course, the Navy may make it all a moot point by ordering me to Japan or somewhere else overseas.

Thanks, Tate
 
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For the ultimate in flexibility the idea of a fwc and flatbed would be my choice.. if needed, you could remove the fwc from the truck and still use the truck as a truck if the need arose.

Sent from my LG-H810 using Tapatalk
 
Your goals pretty much mirror mine. The Ram 2500 or the F-250 platform are perfect IMO for this. FWC meets all your wickets and then some, add a surplus M1010 type trailer like @SomedayAdventure has done to haul toys (or even a RTT for the kiddos or friends) and just go.

Can't wait to see what you come up with Tate - good to see you here on AAV my friend!
 
Dave,

I've been eyballing the 3500. I am by nature and training very inclined to be sure that I don't exceed GVWR or GCWR. I think that the ride with the flatbed and a loaded Grandby will be fine. Then I'll have plenty of tongue weight left over for a bit of a toyhauler. I think I want the ability to tow 10,000 lbs without worry. My limits are a bit arbitrary, but I want the ability to trailer the Jeep if I build it up a bit more.

I am in the position where I will have to rely on a turnkey approach rather than building this myself. If things work out well, I'll transfer from my current command just as the kids are getting our of school for the summer next year. I have a vision of picking them up from their final day in the truck camper and hightailing it for the hills right then for about 30 days. Just gotta pull things together by then.

I'm leaning towards getting 3500 chassis cab with the Cummins. by going with the chassis cab, you get a few more options than using the pickup truck with no bed. Goodies like dual fuel tanks with 74 gallons total. And a lower gear ratio than the 3.42 in the 2500.

I sent an email with all the information in my post to Adventure Trailers, looking to get some guidance. If things go well, I'll commission a build to be ready this fall.
 
That's a great option. It didn't work for me because I still needed a truck in the interim period while the camper was being built. The dual fuel tanks are a HUGE benefit, just so you know that should give you a 1,000 mile range - I've got 500 with just the 31 gallon tank :wow
 
31 gallons, that's cute. :stir

I think you're on the right track with the 3500. If I could change one thing about my truck it would be a 3500. Well, maybe swap the interior but that's a relatively easy fix.
 
2016 RAM 3500 SLT CREW CAB CHASSIS 4X4 172.4" WB $ 44,220.00
6.7-Liter I6 Cummins® Turbo Diesel Engine $ 7,400.00
AISIN Heavy Duty 6 Speed Automatic Transmission $ 1,600.00
Electric Shift-on-the-Fly Transfer Case $ 270.00
cloth 40/20/40 Premium Bench Seat $ 900.00
Single Rear Wheel Group $ (400.00)
Heavy Duty Snow Plow Group $ 200.00
Cold Weather Group $ 125.00
Luxury Group $ 650.00
Add 4.10 Axle Ratio $ 125.00
Fog Lamps $ 140.00
Trailer Brake Control $ 295.00
52 and 22 Gallon Dual Fuel Tanks $ 695.00
Unconnect 5.0 $ 465.00
Power Adjustable Pedals $ 125.00
Tire Pressure Information System $ 150.00
ParkView Rear Back-up Camera $ 395.00
ParlSense Front/Rear Park Assist System $ 395.00
Destination Charges $ 1,195.00

Total $ 58,945.00

This is the MSRP base on RAM's Build and Price website. I'm sure I'd be able to do better working with a dealer. My old man's got some contacts in the heavy trucking industry; I might be able to get a deal through someone he knows.

Some of the items listed above I'd live without if I could find most of what I wanted on a dealer's lot. But, since I expect to have to order, I figured I might as well get what I want. The Heavy Duty version of the AISIN is the only one offered on the chassis cab; I think that's a good thing. I am most stoked by the availability of the 4.10 axle ratio and the dual fuel tanks. Those, and the Cummins, are must haves for me. The power adjustable pedals are for my wife. She's got great legs, just not a lot of 'em. The snow plow group gets the 220 amp alternator and a transfer skid plate. The luxury group gets the Multi-view information display and steering wheel audio controls.

Plus if I order it, I can get a blue one to remind me of my old man's 1980-ish heavy half ton W150 Dodge that I first drove in a hayfield.

Comments and suggestions welcome.
 
Why do you need the snow plow group?
By ordering the diesel you will already have the heavier front end suspension.

My F-350 is very similar to what you spec'd and we just picked up a new Hallmark Everest. You might want to check them out...
Either way you can't go wrong!
 
smlobx said:
Why do you need the snow plow group?
By ordering the diesel you will already have the heavier front end suspension.

My F-350 is very similar to what you spec'd and we just picked up a new Hallmark Everest. You might want to check them out...
Either way you can't go wrong!
Click to expand...

The Snow Plow group gets you the 220 amp alternator and a transfer case skid plate.
 
Dave said:
Look at the U-Connect 8.4 and 9 Alpine speakers and subwoofer option.

SO glad I got it. Very nice on long road trips! As an audiophile, I don't see any reason to have to upgrade the stereo and that was a big plus for me.
Click to expand...

For some reason, the website forces you to get the 6.4 Hemi if you get the Uconnect 8.4.
 
Here's the total for the camper portion:

Flatbed Grandby $ 24,995.00
Mechanical Jacks $ 695.00
Solar Panel 160 Watt Roof Mount $ 995.00
2 way Refrigerator/Freezer 65 Liter $ 690.00
Forced Air Furnace/Thermostat $ 595.00
Self-Contained $ 2,000.00
Fan-Tastic Fan $ 295.00
Extra Roof Vent $ 195.00
8' Side Awning w/Light $ 845.00
Yakima Tracks $ 340.00
Sidewall steps $ 295.00
Exterior LED Lighting Package $ 295.00
Thermal Pack $ 575.00
2nd Deep Cycle Battery $ 225.00
Gas Strut Roof Lift Assists $ 325.00
Aluminum Accordion Entry Steps $ 300.00
Camper Installation $ 495.00

Total $ 34,155.00

I'm not sure how much the flatbed itself will cost. Nor have I figured in any taxes or fees. Budgeting $8,000 for the flatbed puts me over $100,000. Which seems like quite a bit and it is. But I think that it is doable.

On the flipside, I figure that I could use an off the lot 3500 pickup, no flatbed, and put a regular Grandby with the front dinette on it for around $75,000. Maybe even $67,000 if I decided not to go with the Cummins. That would buy a lot of gas. But, I could also just keep using my Jeep and trailer. I don't want to do that. I've been a bit of a gear head all my life. Never had the time or the money to really get after it. Now I've got the money and I think I'm really leaning towards doing this.
 
Of course, the next big thing are aftermarket goodies.

Bumper
Winch
Rock Rails
New tires ?
Air compressors
Etc.

Probably around $10,000 there.
 
For your needs, I'd consider the largest fridge they sell (110 vice 65 liter IIRC). Can't have too big of a fridge ;)
 
True on the fridge. It only adds $400 to double the size.

Care to share any details of your flatbed? I've been looking at Highway Products. They seem to be open to doing many custom touches.
 
I think the CFO strained an eyeball when I told her the grand total. In the interest of looking at the other side here's the break down for a gas powered, crew cab, short bed with a slide in Hawk:

2016 RAM 3500 SLT CREW CAB 4X4 6'4" Bed $ 44,040.00
6.4-Liter Hemi $ 1,395.00
cloth 40/20/40 Premium Bench Seat $ 900.00
Snow Chief Group $ 490.00
Add 4.10 Axle Ratio $ 50.00
Fog Lamps $ 140.00
Trailer Brake Control $ 295.00
Unconnect 8.4 $ 605.00
Power Adjustable Pedals $ 125.00
Remote Start System $ 225.00
ParkView Rear Back-up Camera $ 245.00
ParlSense Front/Rear Park Assist System $ 395.00
Destination Charges $ 1,195.00

Truck Total MSRP
$ 50,100.00

Hawk $ 16,495.00
Mechanical Jacks $ 695.00
Soalr Panel 160 Watt Roof Mount $ 995.00
2 way Refridgerator/Freezer 130 Liter $ 1,090.00
Forced Air Furnance/Thermostat $ 595.00
Front Dinette w/Hot Water, shower, Toilet $ 3,200.00
Fan-Tastic Fan $ 295.00
Extra Roof Vent $ 195.00
Batwing 270 Awning $ 1,400.00
Yakima Tracks $ 340.00
Rear Wall steps $ 295.00
Exterior LED Lighting Package $ 295.00
Thermal Pack $ 575.00
2nd Deep Cycle Battery $ 225.00
Gas Strut Roof Lift Assists $ 325.00
Camper Installation $ 495.00

Camper Total
$ 27,510.00

Grand Total
$ 77,610.00

Now that total doesn't take into account taxes and plates. But it's $24,000 less than the chassis cab setup. That pays for many miles of travels.

Decisions, decisions.
 
Why I think I’m going to buy a 6.4 Hemi powered 3500 chassis cab for a dedicated camper vehicle. Here are the pros:

1) The difference in upfront cost. The Cummins is a $7400 option in the chassis cab. That money will pay for the flatbed.

2) Fuel is more readily available. Note that I didn’t say diesel was hard to find, but gasoline is at damn near every fuel stop in the States. Also, chances are if I’m running with a group of folks that they will have gasoline available as well. Plus, I’ve seen the Mad Max movies; I know gasoline will be available after the apocalypse.

3) I don’t drive enough to justify a diesel. I’ve got 23,000 miles on my 2013 Jeep. That includes driving from San Diego to Washington DC and back. I figure I’ll be doing well to put 7500 miles a year on a dedicated camping rig.

4) If Gordon White (editor of Truck Camper Magazine) can get a little over 10 mpg running a dually 4X4 with the 6.4 Hemi while carrying a 4,000 plus lbs camper in the Rockies, I should be able to get somewhat better running a SRW with a FWC flatbed. Those are hand calculated numbers, as listed on his website. I can live with 12-13 mpg given the miles I expect to put on the truck.

5) When I’m towing the Jeep, I can use the same fuel source for both vehicles.

Now there are cons:

1) No exhaust brake. I will get the trailer brake controller and that will help when I am towing things with brakes. Otherwise, I’ll just have to be smart about how I handle down hill grades.

2) Lower tow rating. It looks like the 6.4 has about 1800 lbs or so less tow rating than a similarly equipped 6.7 chassis.

3) Can’t get the dual tanks with the Hemi. But with 52 gallons as standard, that’s over 500 miles even at 10 MPG.

4) MPG will be lower than a diesel.

5) Resell will be lower.

6) All the cool kids will point and laugh at me. I’m a Navy Nuke who was a mathalete in high school; this will not be an unusual thing for me.

List price for a gas powered chassis cab is about $49,000. I’d still go with a 4.10 ratio. According to the GrimJeeper’s gear calculator, I’d be turning about 1850 RPMs at 70 MPH on stock tires. Going to 35 inch tires will drop that down to 1700 or so. Lastly, one of the huge advantages to building this on a chassis cab is the industry standard of the frame rail spacing. If I just hate the gas motor, or I decide that Ford is a better platform, or Isuzu, or Mitsubishi, I can jack up the flatbed and shove another chassis cab under it.
 
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Nuclear Redneck said:
Why I think I’m going to buy a 6.4 Hemi powered 3500 chassis cab for a dedicated camper vehicle. Here are the pros:

1) The difference in upfront cost. The Cummins is a $7400 option in the chassis cab. That money will pay for the flatbed.

2) Fuel is more readily available. Note that I didn’t say diesel was hard to find, but gasoline is at damn near every fuel stop in the States. Also, chances are if I’m running with a group of folks that they will have gasoline available as well. Plus, I’ve seen the Mad Max movies; I know gasoline will be available after the apocalypse.

3) I don’t drive enough to justify a diesel. I’ve got 23,000 miles on my 2013 Jeep. That includes driving from San Diego to Washington DC and back. I figure I’ll be doing well to put 7500 miles a year on a dedicated camping rig.

4) If Gordon White (editor of Truck Camper Magazine) can get a little over 10 mpg running a dually 4X4 with the 6.4 Hemi while carrying a 4,000 plus lbs camper in the Rockies, I should be able to get somewhat better running a SRW with a FWC flatbed. Those are hand calculated numbers, as listed on his website. I can live with 12-13 mpg given the miles I expect to put on the truck.

5) When I’m towing the Jeep, I can use the same fuel source for both vehicles.

Now there are cons:

1) No exhaust brake. I will get the trailer brake controller and that will help when I am towing things with brakes. Otherwise, I’ll just have to be smart about how I handle down hill grades.

2) Lower tow rating. It looks like the 6.4 has about 1800 lbs or so less tow rating than a similarly equipped 6.7 chassis.

3) Can’t get the dual tanks with the Hemi. But with 52 gallons as standard, that’s over 500 miles even at 10 MPG.

4) MPG will be lower than a diesel.

5) Resell will be lower.

6) All the cool kids will point and laugh at me. I’m a Navy Nuke who was a mathalete in high school; this will not be an unusual thing for me.

List price for a gas powered chassis cab is about $49,000. I’d still go with a 4.10 ratio. According to the GrimJeeper’s gear calculator, I’d be turning about 1850 RPMs at 70 MPH on stock tires. Going to 35 inch tires will drop that down to 1700 or so. Lastly, one of the huge advantages to building this on a chassis cab is the industry standard of the frame rail spacing. If I just hate the gas motor, or I decide that Ford is a better platform, or Izuzu, or Mitsubishi, I can jack up the flatbed and shove another chassis cab under it.
Click to expand...
Sounds like a very well thought out plan. Given all your reasoning, if I were in your shoes, i too would probably opt for the hemi as well..
 
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Thoughts on the flatbed.

The top of the RAM cab is 48 ½ inches from the frame. Allowing 2 inches of clearance (need to check with Four Wheel Campers to see if that is adequate) between the bottom of the camper overhang to the top of the cab, means that the overhang will be 50 ½ inches from the top of the frame rails. The camper measures 42 3/8 inches from the bottom to the overhang, leaving a gap of 8 1/8 inches. The gap will need to be filled by the flatbed.

Based on pictures I’ve seen, most flatbeds have long pieces of channel that lay on top of the frame rails and then smaller lengths of channel perpendicular to those pieces. Then that is covered by plate material. Making some assumptions, if the pieces parallel to the frame rail are 5 inches thick, it should be possible to put a nice long (8 feet or so) drawer between those rails. It would be a space about 8 feet by 4 inches by 30 inches. Perfect place to store the hi-lift jack, shovel, axe, and maybe a fishing rod or two.

The frame is 112 inches from the back of the cab to the taillights. That’s 9 feet 4 inches. If I use 8 feet of that for the drawer, then I’ll still have place about 7 inches tall, 30 inches wide, and 16 inches long underneath the deck and above the frame rails. It seems like that would be an excellent place to tuck up a nice air compressor, manifold, and various pressure switches. Since I can’t get the 22 gallon midships fuel tank in addition to the 52 gallon tank aft of the axle (not according to RAM's build and price website, anyway), that space would be available for a compressed air tank or tanks.

If I place the rear edge of the camper even with the rear edge of the frame rails, then I’m left with about a 14 inch space between the front of the camper and the back of the cab. I plan on having one big past through box there with doors on either side. There will be a place for up to a 38 inch tire on the driver’s side; I think there would be room to have a well in the floor of the box to help keep the spare in place. I’d put in straps as well.

I just read the article on the Expedition Portal about a recent Flatbed build on a Tacoma. http://expeditionportal.com/road-life-adventures-flatbed-tacoma/ I’m gonna steal the grey water tank idea. And possibly add a potable water tank forward of the wheel on the driver’s side. One downside to the FWC camper is the 20 gal water tank. That’s 5 days at a very minimum supply for four people. It would be nice to have double that. 20 gallons is 2.67 cubic feet; so a box 3 feet long by 1 foot wide by 1 foot tall would be nice and extend my time out and about. One of the good things about using the 3500 instead of a 2500 is the increased payload.

I’m still working on a drawing of this in Sketchup. Hopefully, I’ll have something to post here in a few days.
 
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