Factor 55: ProLink vs. FlatLink

Scott B.

Scott B.

Adventurist
As I gather the few remaining pieces for my front bumper, I am looking at line termination pieces - hooks and/or loops.

I have decided to go with Factor 55, as I have a couple of their parts and am very happy with the design and quality. Yes, they are expensive, but made in American and will last my lifetime, so I will only be buying these once.

Does anyone have any pros or cons regarding the ProLink and FlatLink? Pricewise, they are within a few dollars, so that is not an issue. I am just asking if anyone thinks one design is really preferable over the other.
 
Having had the Flatlink I’ll tell you it’s great as is the Prolink. But it’s limited by its design to use screw pin bow shackles in one direction only, and soft shackle use is too tight IMO.

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I’m looking at the Flatlink E for the Jeep as it allows use of a screw pin bow shackle facing both directions as well as generous room for threading soft shackles.

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Scott B. said:
What about the ProLink E?
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Great product. I prefer the flat stowage of the Flatlink E over the protrusion of the Prolink E when stowed.

It's really the same thing, user preference on the appearance dictates your choice.

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What exactly do these things do that a shackle (which is often needed to make one of these work) does not? I have had a shackle on the end of my winch cable instead of a hook since about 1986. Am I doing it wrong?

I know these are popular here, and I swear I'm not trying to pick an internet argument, but these just seem to go against the general principle of not adding any more potential projectiles than necessary to the rigging. What are the for?
 
Scott B. said:
What about the ProLink E?
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FlatLink E. It's what I use... that's all the information you need to know. :D

the original model only allows for the insertion of a 19 mm screw pin from a steel bow shackle; although the hole is radiused it's tough inserting a soft shackle. The "E" models allows the insertion of conventional steel shackles, gated winch line hooks, or recovery hooks, in addition to soft shackles. Folding flat against your fairlead with the winch line completely retracted for stowed travel is another benefit. The "E" model offer greater utility.
 
Code Red said:
What exactly do these things do that a shackle (which is often needed to make one of these work) does not? I have had a shackle on the end of my winch cable instead of a hook since about 1986. Am I doing it wrong?

I know these are popular here, and I swear I'm not trying to pick an internet argument, but these just seem to go against the general principle of not adding any more potential projectiles than necessary to the rigging. What are the for?
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You are at least practicing "Closed System Winching" recovery technique, which was certainly scoffed at in 1986 and has only been accepted as common practice in most OHV communities since about 2010. Kudos. If you are using a shackle on the end of your steel or synthetic winch rope with a steel thimble, like the attached image, then yes you are not doing it as well as you could be.

Whether made of galvanized steel or 18-8 or 316 stainless steel and intended to protect the rope, it isn't strong enough for some of the forces that could be applied in recreational vehicle recovery. This type of thimble could deform from a side-load, collapse, or simply be crushed, compromising the integrity of the rope, potentially resulting in failure or worse, injury.

These "blingy" recovery thimbles you're asking about offer several features which I'll let you review at your leisure on Factor 55's FAQ page vice reproducing them here. I wouldn't attempt to try to sell you one - you'll have to convince yourself.

Ol' watashi originally used the cheap-ass, non-rated hooks that most winch suppliers include with their steel rope and used by the majority of the OHV crowd, but always thought there had to be a better, safer way. I have been running one of their products since Mike first introduced them and have been satisfied with the product from ease of use to the high margin of safety it introduces into recovery situations. Can you do without it? Sure... until the old way you have been doing it fails, which could be the next recovery you perform or never. As Inspector Harry Callahan once posited to a client, "Do you feel lucky"? I, personally, have never been "lucky".

Are there other manufacturers out there? There are, but I'm not a retailer, just a curmudgeonly pundit.

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No kudos necessary, I started doing it out of pure laziness. I got tired of having to go reattach hooks on tree straps that came loose before the line was tensioned. The thing that made me weird in 1986 wasn't using a shackle it was using a tree strap.

Well I read the linked FAQ.

Your point seems to be that the thimble might be a problem in a hard pull. But Factor-55 doesn't replace the thimble, so if that's the weak point, Factor-55 seems to retain it. All the photos above seem to retain whatever thimble was on the rope, as do the photos on Factor-55's website. If my 3/4" pin will damage the thimble, then surely a 5/8" pin will do the same. I suppose you could take the thimble off, but that seems to be a quicker route to damaging the rope.

Factor 55's position in the FAQ seems to be that my thimble might crush on a hard pull and then I wouldn't be able to get my rusty old 3/4" shackle pin through the thimble, but that their 5/8 titanium double sheer pin will glide through easily. I can't really argue with that. If it crushes down to squeeze my 3/4" pin, then after I hammer that 3/4" pin out of the thimble there should be room for a 5/8" pin to slide right in there. I'm just not really sure what that does for me. They don't mention any possibility of compromising the integrity of the rope or risk of injury. And if we're talking about risk of injury we have to balance more metal out on the end of that line against what? a crushed thimble that will still be crushed (a little more) around the smaller pin?

Maybe I am not visualizing it right, but I kinda find it hard to believe that the recovery that is going to crush the thimble and damage the rope with my 3/4" shackle pin is going to damage it less because I replace that 3/4" steel pin with a smaller radius 5/8" pin made out of titanium. It kinda seems to me that since my 3/4" pin will be in there when it crushes, I'll be able to BFH the thimble back into submission. If not, I have smaller shackles.

So my takeaway is that its easier to fit a 5/8 pin through a crushed thimble that a 3/4 pin. But I still don't understand how that helps me.

I swear I am not trying to argue about this. There are a lot of smart people who clearly know more tricks than I do using these things. I feel like I must be missing out on something, but I just can't understand what it is.
 
No argument detected. You're just trying to put your mind around it - I get it. I like to think I too am a rationale thinker and thus have avoided the marketing strategies of other critical recovery gear manufacturers of revolutionary devices like the "murder spork" or "recovery ring", that only costs $20.00 but sells for 10 times that amount, from so called expert recovery specialists.

The thimble is fully supported and enclosed in the Factor 55 thimble. There is no play whatsoever - there is no possibility of a side load or it getting crushed.

I do use my winch frequently, albeit more for training and demonstration purposes, IAW my role as an offroad driving and recovery trainer. The device is reliable and safe, so I don't consider it as "Gucci-gear" for the utility and durability it provides during recovery. Like the Honey Badger, I don't give a damn what others may think, I err on the side of risk management. Hell, it's even an unremarkable anodized gray color vice the more fashionable disco Jeep coordinating color schemes available.

IDK... maybe it's like religion - you have to have faith - perhaps you know somebody who is equipped with a Factor 55 thimble who'll let you examine it more closely. Maybe then you'll have that "epiphany" and you too will "get religion".
 
Thanks Tango. I don't think I'm ready to join the choir on this one, but maybe I'll stop by for the fried chicken after the Bible study on Wednesday night and take a closer look. If I can ever get off my 2-week-a-month travel rotation, then maybe I'll make it to the App Rendezvous and we can kick it around in person.
 
Code Red said:
I feel like I must be missing out on something, but I just can't understand what it is.
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FWIW, you're not alone. I've gone back and forth about whether or not anything is really solved by the ProLink or FlatLink. I've been holding out on a new bumper for the LandCruiser before installing a winch, so while I've been waiting I've been contemplating. For me, the issue that they both provide a solution for is neater storage. With a thimble on the end, whether metal or rubberized (e.g. Bubba Rope), it shouldn't be snugged up directly against the fairlead unless specifically designed to do so. The option then for keeping a little tension on the line means connecting your line to an external recovery point. Doing so in the case of my Tacoma would involve about a foot of synthetic winchline to be exposed to direct UV light and potential damage. The only other fix I have thought of for this issue would be a short length of sacrificial line for storage purposes only. I haven't made final decision on what direction I will go with the Cruiser yet.

For the OP: I have owned and used both on my Tacoma. My preference is the FlatLink for the flatter storage.
 
Brett C said:
What about the new Warn closed loop system?

https://www.warn.com/shop-winch-accessories

https://www.warn.com/100770-epic-sidewinder-black

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A big problem I see with the Sidewinder is angled pulls.

Look on Warn's web site - they have a picture of a Sidewinder on the end of a winch cable, with the open end attached to a bumper (presumably the stuck vehicle.) Looks great - clean, easy connection. On a straight pull, it should work perfect.

But, what if (when) the pulling vehicle is not directly in front of the bumper of the stuck vehicle? Pulling the bumper on an angle would create forces going through the Sidewinder that would not be going through the strongest part of it. I think there would be significant twisting force and uneven loading.

Sure, you could add a shackle in the mix, to allow for the angle - but that defeats the intended purpose.
 
Scott B. said:
A big problem I see with the Sidewinder is angled pulls.

Look on Warn's web site - they have a picture of a Sidewinder on the end of a winch cable, with the open end attached to a bumper (presumably the stuck vehicle.) Looks great - clean, easy connection. On a straight pull, it should work perfect.

But, what if (when) the pulling vehicle is not directly in front of the bumper of the stuck vehicle? Pulling the bumper on an angle would create forces going through the Sidewinder that would not be going through the strongest part of it. I think there would be significant twisting force and uneven loading.

Sure, you could add a shackle in the mix, to allow for the angle - but that defeats the intended purpose.
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You asked what if and my response is rig it differently in that case.

I highly doubt Warn has not done their due diligence when he comes to strength and materials.
 
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Team FlaLlink-E! What I like the most about it is the rounded edges which makes it a lot nicer to use with soft-shackles. Both the ProLink & FlatLink have more squared edges which are great for traditional d-rings, but not as great for soft-shackles.
 
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