Dave's Jeep JT Gladiator: The 'Gator

Dave

Adventurist
Founder
Senior Staff
Editor
#22
Something like Decked. But then you lose bed depth. Like you said. Trade offs and compromises are a bitch.

View attachment 51238
I think the Decked systems are nice, but you lose most of the bed. It's just not for me.

If you really look, those drawers are a not a very efficient use of available space - lots of wasted room there. Not fully square and wasted space on the sides and in between the drawers.
 

Greg

Adventurist
Senior Staff
#23
I think the Decked systems are nice, but you lose most of the bed. It's just not for me.

If you really look, those drawers are a not a very efficient use of available space - lots of wasted room there. Not fully square and wasted space on the sides and in between the drawers.
That's the reason why I don't have it on the Taco. That and they block access to the DC inverter in the bed of the truck.

If you do the 2nd row delete like you did in the JL I don't think you'll have a space problem and you'll have in cab storage making the lockable storage offered by the Decked system not as necessary.

Something like a Pelican 350*, big enough to hold 2 Scepter MFC/MWCs plus some other stuff, can be in the bed and locked as long as you have 23" clearance between the gear pods.

* keeping the bed open was the original plan for the Tacoma. Link is to an Amazon warehouse deal. This is how I got my 350 case.
 

Haggis

Adventurist
Senior Staff
Editor
Founding Member
#24
Something like Decked. But then you lose bed depth. Like you said. Trade offs and compromises are a bitch.
View attachment 51238
Hatd to stuff a couple dead deer or a bear into one of those. We looked at the Decked system as well but they eat too much bed, don’t provide enough storage and didn’t have any weight savings over the modular system I home built. At least with my garage built stuff I can swap it in and out quickly whenever I want and it cost me 1/10 of the price. The hunt for the perfect rack and cover system goes on.
 

Dave

Adventurist
Founder
Senior Staff
Editor
#27
OBA installed. Same mount I had on the JL, made by innovative JK products. Used the same home made 8 ga wiring harness I made for the JL. Fused at the battery.

83ACD082-BE4B-4F28-A6AF-F16B0A899CC0.jpeg
Seat is all the way forward here

C0EC716F-5E19-48E2-A8BC-A5D49E699474.jpeg

Seat in normal position all the way back, mat reinstalled.

F221D822-A90B-4107-9800-04F77AE8178B.jpeg
 

Dave

Adventurist
Founder
Senior Staff
Editor
#32
ARB dual compressor wiring on the Jeep Gladiator. Virtually identical to the JL Wrangler, here is what you need to know to use the OEM aux switches for your compressor.

These OEM switches are easily programmable as either momentary on or latching.

6BC9D8FB-6347-4378-9F46-370922B4C6DD.jpeg

For the aux switches, MOPAR gave us two pigtails - one under the hood and one inside the cab. Such an outstanding system and honestly one of the most underrated options on the JL/JT. Here is the under hood location:

EF645C9D-7ECF-4460-8D67-563DCA978BB5.jpeg

And here is where to find the interior pigtail: Passenger side kick panel, disconnect the door wiring harness at the plug, remove limiting strap and the 10mm nut holding the kick panel. Panel pops off.

FB9277AB-E00A-4E54-94C6-338E3461B965.jpeg

Once revealed, here is what you need to know starting with the diagram. Wires are identical on each pigtail.

7B024241-EE26-4895-B529-678D63B482E2.jpeg
I’m using Aux 4 for this install. Here it is exposed. Pick your switch wire per the color code and diagram above.

557459A7-B9A8-43B8-9C10-7E5585573600.jpeg

For the ARB switch wiring harness (just the switch, compressor power is a separate harness), you need the blue and the black wire.

Note: I am only using this compressor for OBA, I am not using it for air lockers. If you are using yours for lockers, your wiring will different.

Black is ground, I used the OEM post here for chassis ground with a marine grade shrink wrap ring terminal, same grade butt connector for the ground and the hot side - blue to blue for OEM Aux #4

DE804DAE-8327-4795-8DFD-2B3B09B7AC65.jpeg

Ready to put the kick panel back. Note the use of orange zip ties. This serves as “breadcrumbs” for later so I can see at a glance any wiring I have added/changed from OEM.

74A1BCBA-595D-4BAF-AAC4-C28580CAF8F0.jpeg
 
#34
Very slick. Can you get OEM looking switch covers?

On the cruiser I bought a few factory rear window defrost switches. You can take the OEM symbol off with a little sandpaper and add a custom sticker with a little air compressor on it. It's not quite OEM, but it's close. I like it better than an ARB Carling switch on the dash.
 

Dave

Adventurist
Founder
Senior Staff
Editor
#35
Very slick. Can you get OEM looking switch covers?

On the cruiser I bought a few factory rear window defrost switches. You can take the OEM symbol off with a little sandpaper and add a custom sticker with a little air compressor on it. It's not quite OEM, but it's close. I like it better than an ARB Carling switch on the dash.
I haven't seen them but no doubt the Jeep aftermarket will catch up.
 
#36
Very slick. Can you get OEM looking switch covers?

On the cruiser I bought a few factory rear window defrost switches. You can take the OEM symbol off with a little sandpaper and add a custom sticker with a little air compressor on it. It's not quite OEM, but it's close. I like it better than an ARB Carling switch on the dash.
A Magic Eraser will often times remove the painted on OEM wording as well without scratching the plastic.
 

Dave

Adventurist
Founder
Senior Staff
Editor
#37
Sometimes you gotta make something from scratch.

Adapter plates to allow use of the Leitner Designs HiLift mounts - with the XL boxes. The HiLift will need to hang lower to clear the boxes, and if you have a 60 inch jack you’ll need to trim about 4 inches off the bottom of the standard. More on that later.

A88AB0A8-B89D-473B-AEE3-0FE350D49D6F.jpeg

You’ll need 6x6 steel plate (1/8 inch, .125 hot rolled USA steel), drill four 5/16 holes. De-burr and wipe it down with acetone before you prime it.

I will paint these semi gloss black once the red oxide primer cures some and once that dries I’ll post up the finished product.
 

Dave

Adventurist
Founder
Senior Staff
Editor
#38
Here you can see the details on the adapter plates as well as why I needed to trim a wee bit off the 60 inch HiLift standard - it was too long to fit. All in all very happy to have cracked the code on safe, secure HiLift mounting.

Yes, it weighs 35 lbs. Yes, it can hurt you. But if you know how to use one, it does so much more than just lift ;)

66081D1B-83F0-4EA2-B565-C4CAC706B3E7.jpeg

F0C21A72-5EE4-476C-9769-40270B8D09E4.jpeg
 
Top Bottom