Dave's 05 Tacoma Build

[Dave]

I am a big fan of Toyota trucks - Hilux, Tacoma, 4Runner and Land Cruiser.

My first experience with Mr. Toyoda's legacy came in the form of a used '79 Toyota Hilux 3/4 ton long bed with a 20R/4 speed tranny, an old school Timberline shell, and some rust. That thing ran like a swiss watch and never complained through almost 200,000 miles of abuse from me with nothing but routine maintenance and tires. So began my love affair with all things Toyota.

My second Toyota was a 1988 4Runner 4WD SR5 with the 22RE, R151 5-spd, and all factory options. That thing could go anywhere I pointed it with ease so long as I didn't try to go fast uphill on a long highway grade! 1st Gen 4Runners are solid machines and excellent off road in all conditions.

My third Toyota was a 2002 Toyota Tacoma TRD PreRunner Xtra-Cab with the V6 in Lunar Mist which my wife sold when I was in Iraq in 2003. I came home to my fourth Toyota, a brand new 2003 Toyota Tacoma TRD 4WD SR5 Xtra-Cab in Lunar Mist. We quickly outgrew the cab size which brings us to my fifth and "final" Toyota, a 2005 Toyota Tacoma TRD 4WD Double Cab in Silver Streak Mica with all available factory options.

The 2005+ Tacoma was based on the international Land Cruiser Prado 120 chassis and came the 1GR-FE 4.0 Liter V6 gasoline engine that produces 236 horsepower (176 kW) and 266 ft·lbf (361 N·m) torque. This Tacoma is the North American version of the Toyota Hilux pickup sold in international markets.

The project vehicle was purchased new in February 2005 at Toyota of San Juan Capistrano, CA, with a build date of January 2005. It is one of the very first trucks of this generation built at NUMMI in Fremont, CA, USA http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NUMMI and was a dealer trade from Reno, Nevada.

My buildup is an ongoing strategic process of parts selection and vehicle modification focusing on reliability, durability, and comfort in the field. The end result of all the time, money, sweat, and busted knuckles has been all the great memories made while enjoying the wonders of adventuring in North America with family and friends!

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Make: Toyota
Model: Tacoma Double Cab 4WD SR5 TRD Off Road
Year: 2005

Engine: 4.0 1GR-FE
Trans: 5 spd Auto A750F, 3.35 low ratio: A750F
T-Case: VF2A, low ratio 2:57:1
Front Axle: Stock Toyota IFS, 4.88 Nitro Gears, Icon Tubular Upper Control Arms, Icon 2.5 Remote Reservoir Coil-Overs
Rear Axle: Stock Toyota E-Locker, 4.88 Nitro Gears, All-Pro "APEX" Expedition HD leaf springs with Timbren bump stops.
Tires: BF Goodrich AT KO2, 285/75R16
Wheels: Stock Toyota TRD Alloys

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CURRENT MODS:
3.0 inch lift via Icon Vehicle Dynamics Tubular Upper Control Arms, Icon 2.5 Remote Resi Coilovers, & rear Icon 2.0 Remote Resi's and All-Pro Offroad "APEX" Expedition HD leaf springs with Timbren bump stops.
BFG AT KO2, 285/75R16 's, Stock Toyota TRD Alloys
4.88 Nitro Gears from East Coast Gear Supply
All-Pro Offroad APEX aluminum front bumper with Rigid Industries D-2 LED's
All-Pro APEX aluminum IFS skid
All-Pro Trans and T-case skids
All-Pro APEX HD rock sliders
Warn M8000 winch w/Viking hawse fairlead
Warn wireless winch remote
Viking 3/8 synthetic winchline (80ft) w/Safety Thimble and Winch Saver
Rigid Industries grill and SR-20 LED light bar
sPod lighting control system
Rigid Industries SR-50 LED light bar mounted via SoCal Super Trucks brackets
Rigid Industries rock lights
Rigid Industries back up light
Demello Offroad custom rear swingout bumper
Trimmed Rear Bed Quarters
Rhino Lined fenders, rockers etc
iPad Mini navigation mounted via Bird Dawg Industries Tech Deck
Hella air horns x3
TRD Sport hood/grill
Rear Diff breather extension
TRD neoprene seat covers
Weathertech floor mats
Kenwood Excelon KDC-994 Head Unit, Bluetooth and iPod
Kenwood KAC-7202 Amp
PAC SWI-X steering wheel audio control adapter for Kenwood
Image Dynamics IDQ10 v.2 D2 Subwoofer
Alpine Type-S Door Speakers
Total Sound Deadening - eDead v1 SE2 - Fatmat
Ventshades
Quick Fist 4-D Mag Light mount
Sears Die Hard Platinum P5 Group 35 Battery (main)
Blue Sea Systems negative bus 12 circuit fuse block (cab power)
National Luna Power Pack w/remote dual battery monitor
Blue Sea Systems negative bus 6 circuit fuse block (house)
Overland Solar 90 watt solar panel
Power Tank CO2 system
Safari Snorkel SS135HF
Console Vault
On board hard mounted First Aid kit and 2.5 lb ABC fire extinguisher
Full trauma kit
Full recovery kit
Frame and sliders corrosion proofed with full POR-15 treatment
Hi-Lift
Engel MT-45 Fridge W/New Gen Engel fridge slide & Engel remote thermometer
Adventure Trailers FlipPac, color matched w/AT LED lighting upgrade
Goose Gear custom FlipPac camper interior module
Fiamma F35 Pro awning w/custom enclosure made by SLO Sail
Magnaflow CAT back exhaust system with high clearance crossover pipe. Wrapped and heat shielded.
LED lighting upgrades: Tails, markers, rock lights. Custom interior lighting by Anti-Dark
Stop Tech slotted rotors and Power Stop HD disc brake pads
Yaesu FT-2900R 2M radio, Diamond antenna

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Then:

Now:

The evolution of the truck since new:

Rack and Eezi-Awn version

Coyote Creek, Anza Borrego, CA

Trip with HMR's rig and ours, Anza Borrego, CA, 2006/7-ish

Death Valley trip

Calico Cleanup 2008

Camped near Striped Butte with the new FlipPac, Nov 2009

Joshua Tree NP, rarely seen snow-capped Idyllwild in the background, photo by Chris Marzonie

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MAINTENANCE CORNER:
New BFG MT KM's at 56,500 miles (21JUL09)
POR-15 corrosion proofing project on sliders and frame completed (23JUL09)
OME Dakar HD rear springs and OME Nitrocharger shocks at 57,500 miles (28JUL09)
Nitro Gear 4.88's from ECGS at 58,200 miles(30AUG09)
New cataytic converters x2 and new MAF under warranty at 80K (20OCT10)
Icon Vehicle Dynamics 2.0 rear remote reservoir shocks at 102K (20OCT11)
Icon Vehicle Dynamics 2.5 front remote reservoir coilovers and Icon billet upper control arms, front end alignment at 102,000 (25NOV11)
New BFG MT KM2's at 102,11 miles (29NOV11)
New OEM rear 2 piece drive shaft (SEP12)
Magnaflow CAT back exhaust with high clearance crossover (DEC12)
Disc brakes upgraded to Power Stop slotted rotors and extreme HD pads at 112k (DEC12)
New All-Pro Expedition rear leaf springs & polyurethane bushings w/Timbren bump stops. Front end alignment at 113.6k (JAN14)

ROUTINE SERVICE:
- 60,000 Mile Service (12OCT09): Front and rear diff fluids changed. Transfer Case fluid changed.
Engine Oil and filter. Transmission fluid flushed @ dealer. New OEM front brake pads, rotors machined @ dealer. OEM air filter, new wiper blades.
- 72,500 Mile Maintenance (5JUL10): Denso spark plugs, OEM engine air filter, OEM cabin air filter. Engine oil change, OEM filter. U-joints greased.
- 77,000 Mile Maintenance (10OCT10): Engine oil change, Bosch filter.
- 80,700 Mile Maintenance (6NOV10): Engine oil change, OEM filter. Tires rotated. U-joints greased.
- 85,420 Mile Maintenance (22FEB11): Engine oil change, OEM filter. OEM engine air filter. New wiper blades.
- 86,500 Miles (26MAR11): New OEM rear drum brake shoes (replaced early, 30%+ remaining on old shoes). Tires rotated.
- 90,700 Mile Service (21MAY11): Denso spark plugs. Engine oil change, OEM filter. MAF cleaned. Front and rear diff fluids changed. Transfer Case fluid changed. U-joints greased.
- 91,500 Mile Maintenance (3JUN11): New OEM front brake pads. (only had 31k on this set...) Topped off coolant with OEM Toyota pink engine coolant.
- 93,768 Mile Maintenance (17JUL11): Engine oil change, OEM filter. U-joints greased. Brake fluid flushed and replaced at dealer.
- 98,500 Mile Maintenance (18SEP11): Engine oil change, OEM filter. U-joints greased. OEM engine air filter.
- 103,000 Mile Maintenance (15DEC11): Engine oil change, OEM filter. U-joints greased. Brake fluid flushed.
- 106,817 Mile Maintenance (10MAY12): Transmission fluid flushed, Cooling system flushed, Power steering fluid flushed, new serpentine belt.
- 110k Mile Maintenance (DEC 12): Engine oil change, OEM filter. U-joints greased. OEM engine air filter.
- 112k Mile Maintenance (OCT 13): Engine oil change, OEM filter. U-joints greased.
- 113.6k Mile Maintenance (JAN14): Denso spark plugs, MAF cleaned. U-joints greased. Tires rotated.
- 120K Mile Maintenance (OCT15): Transmission fluid flushed, OEM engine air filter.
- 122.2K Mile Maintenance (DEC15): Engine oil change, OEM filter. Transfer Case fluid changed. U-joints greased, A-arms greased. New BFG AT KO2 285/75R16 tires.


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Spark Plugs: If it's your first time changing the plugs, you will notice that the Driver Side has NGK, and the passenger has Denso Plugs. Toyota has been doing this for eons, and I really cant confirm why they do this.

Using 6 identical Denso plugs is what I recommend, gapped @ .040 to .041. OEM does not use iridium so I recommend non-iridium plugs per OEM engine build specs.

1GR-FE Spark Plugs:
HOW TO CHANGE SPARK PLUGS ON 1GR-FE

1GR-FE Throttle Body Cleaning:
HOW TO CLEAN 1GR-FE THROTTLE BODY

Great Electrical Reference:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/103969-electronics-basics-reference.html
http://www.the12volt.com/

FLUIDS:
Diffs:
Hypoid gear oil APL GL-5
Above -18 °C (0 °F): SAE 90
Below -18 °C (0 °F): SAE 80W or 80W - 90

HOW TO CHANGE DIFF FLUID

Transfer Case:
API GL-4 or GL-5
SAE 75W-90

Rear Diff - 3 QTS, APL GL-5 SAE 90 (torque fill and drain plugs (24mm socket) to ONLY 36 ft lbs per OEM specs!)
Front Diff – 2 QTS, APL GL-5 SAE 90 (same as above, 10mm allen socket)
Transfer Case - 1.1 US QT, APL GL-5 SAE 75-90 (same as above, 24mm socket)

Engine Oil – SAE 5W-30, OEM recommended. 5.5 US QTS, 4.6 Imp QTS

ONLINE TOYOTA SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE GUIDE!
http://smg.toyotapartsandservice.com/guides.php?xv=1&xy=2004&xint_id=6&v=22&y=2005&int_id=6

ONLINE TOYOTA TACOMA FSM!
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/05+/local files/repair.html

TACOMA TSB INFO!
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tacoma/127749-2005-technical-service-bulletins/

Resetting the "Maintenance Required" light on 2005+ Tacoma:
1. Turn ignition key to 'ON' and press the odometer button until the display reads actual mileage... not Trip A or B.
2. Turn ignition key to OFF.
3. Hold in the same button you used in step 1.
4. While holding the button in, turn ignition key to 'ON'.
5. The 'Maint Reqd' light should blink and go out!

My complete Hilux Safari Snorkel install write up for 05+ Tacomas featured at Cruiser Outfitters:
http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/tech_2ndgenTaco_snorkel.html

“In the Summer 2010 Overland Journal, there’s an article about a well-equipped camper owned by forum member Tacodoc. The truck has many upgrades that make it more capable off-road. The camper is an Adventure Trailers Flip-Pac, tailored to meet Tacodoc’s needs. The result is a go-anywhere adventure travel vehicle with enough creature comforts and conveniences to make a trip of several weeks a pleasure. And the truck just looks cool!” – Chip Haven

Feature Vehicle, Overland Journal Summer 2010 issue:
http://store.overlandjournal.com/products/Summer-2010.html

 

[Dave]

At Lake O'Neill in December 2011

 

[Dave]

Icon Vehicle Dynamics V.S. Series aluminum body 2.0 shock absorbers

We threw these Icon Vehicle Dynamics V.S. Series aluminum body 2.0 shock absorbers on at the Overland Rally in Hollister.
Big thanks to HMR and Chris for taking pics!

Out with the old and in with the new... OME's with almost 50K and still good.

Totally stoked with this upgrade!

Bottle jack to get that bottom bolt in

Hi-Lift and blocks for safety.
Old Man Emu Dakar rear springs with extra leaf still looking good, best springs I've had on the back. Deavers were too soft.

Big thanks to Chris (Tacovendor) for lending a hand and just being a really COOL guy to work with - THANKS CHRIS!!!

Drilling frame for resi mounts

Mission accomplished!

 

[Dave]

Icon VS Series 2.5 remote reservoirs and Icon tubular UCA's

Well, I'm at 100K now and I've had the Icon (formerly Donahoe Racing) 2.5 coilovers on the truck for approximately 80K... pretty impressive performance and longevity IMO. The only issue they have had is a small shaft seal leak on the drivers side CO and decreasing response due to needing to to be re-charged.

2005 Tacoma upper A arm removal can be a real PITA... got it done but it's no fun bending virgin sheet metal out of the way for that looooong bolt!
Great tech how to here: http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3381

COILOVER REBUILD AND UPGRADE: The original Donahoe Racing 2.5 inch coilovers have almost 80K on them, very impressive considering the weight of my truck (5,400 lbs) and the punishing terrain I've taken it across over those 80K. So those came off along with the OEM upper control arms and the old shocks were taken in to Icon for a rebuild.
Here's how the coilovers look after rebuild - recapped and upgraded to VS Series 2.5 remote reservoirs!

ICON TUBULAR UPPER CONTROL ARMS: New for 2011 are the 2005+ Tacoma / 2007+ FJ Cruiser Tubular Uniball Upper Control Arms, these are a direct replacement Uniball Upper Control Arm to replace the weak OEM upper arm and is intended to maximize wheel travel, correct caster, and add strength to Independent Front Suspension components.
The Icon 2005+ Tacoma / 2007+ FJ Cruiser Tubular Uniball Upper Control Arm System - 58450 Fits:
2005+ Toyota Tacoma 2wd / 4wd
2007+ Toyota FJ Cruiser 2wd / 4wd

The ICON 2005+ Tacoma / 2007+ FJ Cruiser Tubular Uniball Upper Control Arm System - 58450 are built with the following specifications:
-1026 DOM Seamless Tubing
-CNC Bent Tubing
-CNC Machined Bushing Housings and Sleeves
-4130 CNC Machined Uni-ball Cup
-17-4 High Grade Stainless Steel Uni-ball Adapter Pin
-High Precision CNC Machined Pin Provides OEM Like Fitment
-Professionally Precision Welded
-1" Teflon Lined Uniball

With the combined Icon Vehicle Dynamics 58450 Upper Control Arm and Icon coil over shock package you can obtain 2½+ of lift and 2 of extra droop wheel travel on your 2wd or 4wd Truck. The Tubular Uniball Upper Control Arm System (Part 58450) replaces the OEM factory upper ball joints with a 1" Teflon Lined Uniball. Icon Vehicle Dynamics has designed the arms to maximize droop wheel travel, correct castor, and increase the durability of suspension components when you install Icon coil over shocks or other manufacturers lift systems.

Installed the UCA's and shocks today, these things are amazingly high quality.

Area prepped

First some grease on the bushings. It's nice that these UCA mounts have zerks.

High quality tapers. These UCA's are completely rebuildable.

Arms installed, notice the sheet metal had to be bent back about 1/2 inch on both sides to clear the looong bolt. It was easy.

Shocks ready to go on with all the tools needed and red loctite

Shocks installed

Modifying the remote reservoir brackets to fit with the ARB

Tomorrow morning I'll attach the mounting brackets and attach the remote reservoirs, re-install swaybar, skids and tires and it's alignment time.

Stay tuned!

 

[Dave]

Here's how the bracket looked after I modded it to work with the ARB

Bracket mounted. Note how the cutout was made to allow the ARB bracket bolt to pass through and how the Icon bracket is sandwiched between the frame, the ARB bracket and the sway bar relocation blocks underneath.

Icon 2.5 Reservoir mounted with hose clamps. Coilover set for 3 inches of lift.

Took it down for an alignment after I had everything back together. Obviously it was way out of spec - see the numbers, before and actual (after).

The ride is noticeably more plush now, and the annoying vibration in the steering wheel at 45-50mph is gone now. This setup should give a much higher level of performance than I have known previously and I'm very excited to hit the trail!

 

[Dave]

Rhino'd teaser pic

Added a set of these mud flaps from TW member Reno Tacoma. I modified them to be more off-road friendly. Great product -I'm liking them

 

[Dave]

New Style Storm Cover

I despise the big blue storm cover that FRP sells for the FlipPac. It is designed in a way (not a true rectangle) that makes it necessary to put it on one way only - reversing it 180 degrees causes it to not fit right (too tight) and this can be a royal PITA. The color was awful IMO and when inside you had almost zero visibility in addition to minimal ventilation. And, a cheap system of securing the fly to the tent - FRP supplied white bungie cords that were instantly dirty and matched the "hobo tarp" look of the fly after one use. The two battens for the vents are sewn in place i.e. not removable or replaceable... For a $300+ OEM fly I was less than impressed.

Adventure Trailers sells a MUCH improved design made by SLO Sail. Better material, better ventilation, windows for better visibility, a 360 degree bungee cord around the bottom of the fly and multiple attachment points/buckles for real straps to tie it down if needed in a Pacific Northwest storm. It features removeable/replaceable battens for the vents and, you can throw it on in either direction because of it's true rectangular shape and generous cut.

Finally, a modern design that complements the vehicle

 

[Dave]

The Demello Offroad Rear Bumper Project

Due to my evolving needs the CBI rear bumper has been sold. Applying the lessons learned in the field during my travels during the last 7 years of owning this truck, I will be working with Demello Offroad here in SoCal to develop a totally new 2nd Gen Tacoma rear bumper specifically designed for long range trips and extended remote camping.

Getting the swingout dialed in. This configuration allows for 2 or 4 cans (your choice) as well as propane, pioneer tools and Hi-Lift. Stout, traditional tow hitch as well as recovery points and Hi-Lift jack friendly. An optional spare tire mount can be attached in the center as well (2 spares anyone?)

Next up will be a receiver on the swingout for attaching a Thule or Yakima bike rack, LED rear back up/camp light and fold down aluminum table.

Bumper requirements:
1. OEM quality tow hitch
2. Trailer wiring plug provision
3. Recovery points x2
4. Hi-Lift jack points x2
5. Thule/Yakima bike rack compatible with hitch attached to swingout
6. 4WD Mud flap attachment
7. Provision for 2 LED rock light pods at corners

Swingout requirements:
1. 2 AT aluminum can carriers
2. Aluminess shovel/axe mount
3. AT aluminum propane bracket
4. Flip down aluminum table
5. LED back up light mounted center on stalk
6. Provision for propane hose and wire harness flex at hinge
7. Lockability. Locks closed and open.

Next up will be the rock light tabs, propane regulator hardmount underneath, aluminum fold down table, LED back up light and then it's off to powdercoat at last.

Demello is turning this into a work of art and I'm really happy with the result. So many small refinements over my other bumper that are perfectly suited to my needs have been incorporated into this design that I literally ran out of things to add. The design will be available for others to purchase and the swingout is made for "ala carte" additions and subtractions based on what the user wants. For example, the receiver hitch on the swingout can be used to carry mountain bikes or a spare tire carrier or even a firewood/gear basket can be added there.

Being able to configure things to the mission adds a great deal of utility to a swingout vice just being stuck with a spare and a can carrier back there.

Here are a few pics of the completed Demello bumper installed and ready just in time for Mountain Rendezvous

All the accesories on the swingout are lightweight - AT can carriers, AT propane bracket, Aluminess pioneer tool carrier, and the fold down table are all aluminum.

Heavy roller bearing pivot, gate locks closed and open. Dual receiver hitches for towing and carrying mountain bikes or an optional second spare on the swingout. Built in mud flap brackets and LED back up light and LED license plate light.

 

[Dave]

Being able to carry a bike rack (and bikes) again is muy bueno, really digging the utility of the new Demello rear bumper and how it compliments the FlipPac

 

[Dave]

Fish Creek Anza Borrego

Great photos by Robert Barlow

 

[Dave]

Safari Snorkel Install

Safari Snorkel SS135HFD

Modified for '05-'12 Toyota Tacoma 1GRFE 4.0 Liter-V6

Install Guide by Dave Bennett & Cruiser Outfitters

​

See my complete Hilux Safari Snorkel install write up for 05+ Tacomas featured at Cruiser Outfitters

*KIT NOW INCLUDES A TEMPLATE SPECIFIC TO THE '05-'12 TACOMA FENDER - A CRUISER OUTFITTERS EXCLUSIVE

Required parts​

PARTS NOT INCLUDED IN THE SS135HFD KIT:
3 foot section of 3 inch Exhaust Pipe (1)
3x3 inch Heavy Duty Rubber Plumbing connector (1)
3 inch hose clamps (2)
4 inch hose clamp (1)
Black Silicone Sealant (RTV)
Silicone spray lubricant
Primer
Touch up paint

NOTE:These parts are all available at your hardware store or auto shop. The exhaust tubing will require bends for proper installation. Keep in mind you can easily drive the truck (after mounting the snorkel) to an exhaust shop, they can easily bend the tube to fit your install. OR, you can cut and modify your OEM interior intake to fit.

Fitment To: Passenger Side Fender / A-Pillar
Fitting Time: 6-8 Hours (Depending on Skill Level, Tools, etc.) - Update: With the custom template now included in all SS135MOD kits, install time has been reduced to approximately 4-5 hours, again depending on skill level, tools, etc. We plan on 4 hours here in the shop.
Special Tools:

• 92mm hole saw
• 3/8 Drill with assorted drill bits (a uni-bit or step drill bit is preferred)
• Hack saw/air hack saw
• Round file
• Tube bender

Prior to commencing the installation, it is the Installer's responsibility to verify that all components and particularly the template placement (Item 14) are correct!
Ensure you have all parts and tools accounted for before you begin work!
STEP 1:

Open hood. Remove the OEM air intake duct from inner fender/engine intake using a screwdriver and 10mm socket/ratchet. Leave intake air filter in place

STEP 2:
Remove the RHS inner fender liner and the engine air intake duct from engine bay in accordance with the factory service manual.
There are 6 plastic inserts and 2 10mm screws retaining the fender well liner to the inner fender well and fender flare.
From the inside of the engine compartment, remove the plastic inserts carefully using a flat tip screwdriver, popping them out toward the tire. Using a 10mm socket, remove the screws from the edge of the flare and remove the last 2 plastic clips hidden under them.
Fold the liner back out of your way as shown (this will all be re-installed in reverse order later).

STEP 3:
(Update: The SS135MOD now ships with a custom template that eliminates the need for step 3, instead temporarily attach the template to the fender using masking tape and proceed with marking, drilling and cutting. It is still advisable to double check the template and your marking with the old method prior to drilling any holes. Measure twice, drill once.)

Hold the snorkel up to the fender where you want the snorkel to mount, paying special attention to the indentation in the snorkel for the antenna.

​

Attach the studs and then mark them with paint.
CAREFULLY (have a buddy help out if possible) hold the snorkel back up where you just had it and lightly touch the painted studs to the sheet metal.
Pay close attention to the antenna indentation mentioned earlier as well as the rake of the snorkel at the windshield and the level appearance of the snorkel on the fender.
Using the stud marks you have chosen, align your template and firmly tape it on.
Mark all holes and cut-outs with a black marker.
This will mark the location for attaching the template to drill the 5 holes and the use of the 92mm hole saw.

NOTE: This is all necessary as this template is cut out to fit the contours of a HILUX fender and not a TACOMA (see picture for detail). Cruiser Outfitters now provides an accurate Tacoma fender template making this step obsolete if you purchase your SS135 from the.

​

STEP 4:
Using a spring loaded punch, mark the exact location for drilling your 6 pilot holes

STEP 5:
Using a small drill bit, drill pilot holes.
Drill the 5 snorkel mounting stud hole positions to 16mm.
Using the 92mm hole saw, drill the main hole.
Enlarge the main hole as per template cut away section.
Test fit snorkel to fender.
Use round file to adjust any mounting stud holes that are not true for smooth fit (this is not a cause for alarm as studs may protrude slightly irregularly).
De-burr and paint all holes. Allow sufficient drying time.

STEP 6:
Test fit and trim down the Hose – Air Entry.
It is beneficial to fit this air entry hose to the entire snorkel body assembly and then do a test fit before final install of the snorkel body to the fender.
Pay close attention to the tight fit inside the fender and take your time.
I trimmed about 5 inches+ off mine (an inch at a time!) where it mounts to the snorkel inside the fender. Trim the oval end, DO NOT trim round end!
This is necessary as it is a tight turn inside the fender for the air entry hose to fit through the inner fender well air intake opening.
Once you are satisfied with fit and length, move on to next step.
NOTE: Save a 2 inch wide piece of the air entry hose for use later on the intake.

STEP 7
Carefully mount snorkel to fender using supplied washers and locking nuts.
Start at the front nut and tighten evenly as you go, using a cross pattern.
Install air entry hose on snorkel inside fender and tighten hose clamp for water tight fit.
Re-install inner fender liner, replacing all plastic inserts and the 2 10mm screws at the fender flares.

STEP 8:
Mount upper bracket to snorkel body using supplied 10mm bolts.
Using bracket as a template, carefully mark 3 screw locations on A-pillar with black marker.
Punch, drill pilot holes and finally drill these out to 8mm.
De-burr and paint. Allow sufficient drying time.
Insert plastic body inserts.
Install all 3 10mm bolts and all 3 screws at A-pillar. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!

STEP 9:
Measure the distance from the rubber snout to the opening on the air filter assembly.
Using a tube bender, carefully bend the 3 inch pipe (Intake Connector) and cut to desired length as shown below. DO NOT cut the pipe too short, it must insert fully at both ends!

STEP 10:
Remove the air cleaner housing and inspect. There are 2 small holes, waterproof these holes by applying the black silicone sealant (RTV). Replace the housing.
Using the 2 inch piece left over from the air entry hose (Step 6), slide this over the end of the Intake Connector and then apply the 3x3 heavy duty rubber plumbing connector over this as shown.
Using the bare metal and of the Intake Connector, lubricate with silicone spray and insert it into the rubber snout at the fender.
Rotate the Intake Connector to the desired angle and, lubricating with silicone spray, insert the rubber connection at the air cleaner housing.
Ensure that angles are good for airflow and then install and tighten the remaining hose clamps (this assembly requires 4 total including the one hidden inside the fender).
NOTE: It is YOUR responsibility to ensure a watertight seal at the 4 clamps – these are the ONLY possible source of leaks so if done right you have no worries!

​

STEP 11:
The air inlet sleeve (large washer) is no longer included in all SS135MOD applications and is not mandatory fitment. The water separation of the newer (included) Safari Snorkel air ram assemblies does not require the sleeve and in fact allows greater air flow without it.
Lastly, install the air ram assembly and fasten with the black hose clamp provided.

​

 

[Dave]

​

I've been running a Warn M8000 winch on the truck since installed the ARB bumper back in 2005. This 8,000 lb. capacity winch is made in USA and offers outstanding reliability. Its low-profile design allows for a variety of mounting options, making it perfect for most Trucks, Jeeps and SUVs. It is a perfect fit in the ARB bumper.

• Premium Series winch that delivers classic design, proven performance, and legendary WARN reliability
• Low-profile design and separate control box allows for a wide range of mounting options
• Exclusive brake design provides superior control while winching
• Durable 3-stage planetary geartrain for smooth, reliable, operation
• Series-wound, high-speed motor provides fast line speed and strong pulls

Having a reliable winch is a great insurance policy and provides peace of mind and safety when solo or in a group. It's also a great way to make new friends!

It's been a great winch that's served me well. It's first use was down in Baja where it was used to prevent a friend and his wife from a rollover into a canyon (that's Wil from Sierra Expeditions).

The Warn winch itself is a well covered topic so I will cover winch upgrades and options here.

SYNTHETIC WINCH LINE:

I chose Viking Offroad synthetic winch line for it's reputation as the best. They are rated at 12,300 lbs (6metric tons) for 5/16" and 17,600 lbs (8 metric tons) for 3/8".

I chose Viking orange 3/8' line with Safety Thimble because my truck is heavy and I wanted bomb-proof line.

Some of the benefits of synthetic over steel are:

By switching from steel cable to a synthetic winchline you will reduce the weight as follows:
- 5/16" x 100' of Steel Cable weights 18 lbs vs. 2.7 lbs for Synthetic, saving 15.3 lbs.
- 5/16" x 125' of Steel Cable weights 22.5 lbs vs. 3.375 lbs for Synthetic, saving 19.1 lbs
- 5/16" x 150' of Steel Cable weights 27 lbs vs. 4 lbs for Synthetic, saving 23 lbs.
- 3/8" x 100' of Steel Cable weights 26 lbs vs. 3.6 lbs for Synthetic , saving 22.4 lbs.

Synthetic winchlines are safer because they are so light , they can't store as much kinetic energy as heavy steel cables. Therefore the synthetic line will not carry as much force like heavy steel cable will when it breaks under load. You can test it out by comparing steel cable to a wet napkin and a synthetic winchline to a dry napkin, throw a dry napkin as hard as you can it will only go a few feet, but soak it in water and now you can throw it much farther.

The only downfall of synthetic in my opinion is that it is susceptible to damage from abrasion, where the rope has come in contact with a rock, the fairlead mount or bumper. The most common culprit is the bumper, manufacturers do not always provide enough clearance or opening for the winchline to pass through untouched before it goes through the fairlead. The solution is to grind the opening larger to allow the fairlead mount opening to be at least 1/4" larger than the opening of the fairlead. In particular on the bottom and on the sides.This reason accounts for probably 98-99% of the rope failures. The remaining reasons are:

1. Allowing ropes to come in contact with sharp rocks under load
2. Buying too long a winchline for your winch
3. Not properly installing the winchline under load. Loose winchlines can result in backlashing. This is where the rope gets stuck in between itself which can cause high friction and abrasion
4. Overheating winches, in particular winches with internal brakes in the winch drums
5. Using winchlines for sucking axles down (rock crawlers) by threading the line through the front of the fairlead then down ot the axle. This will prematurely wear out the line

I also upgraded to the Viking Delrin rollers on the ARB and I'm in the process of relocating the solenoid box to under the hood. Next up will be the Warn wireless remote.

WARN SOLENOID RE-LOCATION AND REMOTE WINCH CONTROLLER:

This mod let me get the winch solenoid in and out of the elements and also increased air flow to the radiator. The remote controller enables key-fob control of the winch from in-cab or elsewhere and eliminates the need for the cumbersome corded controller.

I still keep the corded controller in the truck as a back up but this remote setup is way more user friendly.

Relocated the winch solenoid pack under the hood, ran all new cables etc.

Made a new bracket for the Hella air horns and re-installed. Just enough room!

Now the winch is complete!

Super easy upgrade, 10 minute install.
(in a hurry...crappy pics)

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[Dave]

Old Man Emu Dakar Springs

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The OEM Toyota rear leaf springs on the 2nd Generation Tacoma were too street oriented for for my use. After trying AAL's and a set of custom 12-leaf Deaver springs I finally found a heavy duty off the shelf spring option that worked for me - Old Man Emu Dakars with the optional extra leaf.

In retrospect, the Deavers and Bilsteins served me well but they had seen better days, and I need something stiffer since I like to load her up. Those Deavers had been on the truck since 2005 and had been up and down the west coast of the USA, down to Baja and Laguna Hanson, caught air in Arizona at the Expedition Trophy in 2006, been all over Johnson Valley, Big Bear, Anzo Borrego, Calico, and Death Valley multiple times as well as up and down Saline Valley road repeatedly, all while heavily loaded down... they were clapped out.

So, I looked at the Dakars and liked what I saw. TRDparts4U sells the Dakar springs as part of the OME HD suspension package.

Here are the part #s I'm using:
REAR SHOCKS N182 qty 2
TOYOTA BUSHES 90389-A0003 qty 4
UBOLTS OMEU53A qty 4
REAR LEAFS CS047R qty 2
EXTRA LEAF D29XL qty 2

These support my loaded truck and camper with ease and make the rear suspension "feel like a truck" again. 50K on them and going strong. OME recommends that you add an Extra Leaf to the spring pack when load exceeds 220Lbs as a heavy constant load. I carry more than that so it was a no brainer.

Some of the features that I appreciate in the Dakar leaf springs:

• Draw Tapered & Diamond Cut Leaves: Ensure the load is progressively distributed over a larger surface area, reducing the high stresses that develop at leaf ends. This provides increased ride quality and protection against leaf breakage, significantly increasing the spring life.
• Bolt Clamps & Liners: The leaf clamps are bolted to allow installation of anti squeak nylon liners.
• Fully Scragged & Load Tested: Scragging ensures the spring takes a permanent 'set' which reduces the risk of sagging. Load testing ensures the spring meets the required specification.
• Graphite Coating: To further reduce the friction between the spring leaves & friction pads.
• Military Wrap: Designed to provide added safety.
• Anti Friction Pads: Regreasable nylon interleaf liners reduce friction at the leaf tips where the load is the greatest.
• Flat Axle Seat Area: Allows a positive, safe axle mount reducing spring stress & increasing spring life.
• Shot Peening: The tension side of all leaves is shot peened to reduce spring stress. This process can double the life of a spring.
• Two-stage Leaf Pack: Featured on most rear springs for optimum comfort. When unladen the vehicle is largely riding on the primary stage, with the secondary stage providing additional support when a heavy load is added.

OME Dakars with extra leaf and Nitrochargers

OME Dakars installed, Mike and Chris helping with swapping out gears for 4.88's

DEAVER SPRINGS

I ran a set of custom Deaver 12 leaf springs for a couple of years. Loved the flex on the trail, but for a laden vehicle doing long range unsupported trips in the desert I tired of hitting the bumpstops all the time. This led to the early retirement of the Deaver springs and the upgrade to the heavier Dakars.

My original rear suspension: Custom Deaver 12 pack and Bilstein 5100's

 

[Dave]

4.88 Gears

Working with East Coast Gear Supply has been a pleasure, Chase has excellent customer service and these third members were built to my specs and on my doorstep in one week!


http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/


Total cost for Nitro Gear 4.88 pre-built third members was $1,560.00 delivered, which includes the larger OEM Toyota 3.90 and up front carrier which is required for 4.88's :costumed-smiley-007


Now all I have to do is swap them out and ship the cores back to ECGS!


*EDIT: I had to pay $35 and $40 each for F/R diff cores to be shipped BACK to ECGS via UPS after the install. This was an additional cost that I forgot about until it was time to ship them back.*

New Nitro Gear 4.88's and old OEM 3.73's side by side. The 3.90 and up clamshell is larger than the OEM 3.73 clamshell.

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Jack stands for safety, wheels off and ready to disconnect axles and driveshaft

Removing e-locker for re-use

Disconnecting the axles is easy, you only need to pull them out a couple of inches on each side to free up the third member for removal. This is a good time to inspect brakes and other areas as well.

Pulling the OEM 3.73 third member out. Be careful, it's heavy!

Getting ready to pull the front half shafts

Front IFS clamshell is harder to remove and needs a few parts like the actuator and the gear pictured below changed over from old clamshell to the new one but is a fairly straight forward operation.

*This is the gear that has to be exchanged between the old core and the new front IFS clamshell - you can see it here in the old clamshell above.

Attaching the front differential, note the ADD module must be re-used.

Putting it all back together!

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[Dave]

ARB Bullbar

There are many aftermarket bumpers available for Tacomas, FJ Cruisers, 4Runners and Land Cruisers. I chose an ARB bullbar for it's reputation as the best.​

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Unlike most brush guards and bumpers, ARB Bull Bars incorporate a fully engineered mounting system which completely replaces the factory bumper. Loaded with features aimed at making remote area travel safe, no other bumper offers the same degree of vehicle integration, protection or functionality.

Product Features:

• Air Bag Approved
• Recessed Indicators
• Recessed Fog Lamps - Optional
• Retains Factory Tow Points
• Powdercoat Black
• Light Mounts
• Antenna Mounts

With an air bag equipped 4x4 it is essential that the vehicle's crush rate and air bag triggering is not altered when an aftermarket bumper is installed. To ensure compatibility, ARB assesses each vehicle's frontal crush characteristics and replicates the crush rate into the design of each air bag compatible bull bar and its mounting system. This method enables engineers to achieve maximum possible vehicle and passenger protection without affecting the crash pulse. ARB has invested heavily in vehicle crash barrier tests to validate the performance and compliance of its air bag compatible bull bars, and as a consequence, our bars offer a far greater level of protection than most standard brush guards and grille guards. I feel safer knowing that this degree of engineering is protecting my family on the road.

[video=youtube;stJL4_gP5LU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=stJL4_gP5LU[/video]
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[Dave]

Magnaflow

Finally got around to the exhaust. The stock crossover pipe on the 2nd Gen Tacoma is notorious for hanging just below the cross member (WTH Toyota?) and since skid plates are finally in my future I wanted that belly flat


Took it to Bear Valley Exhaust in Murrieta for the surgery as well as the addition of a Magnaflow exhaust. I really like the way it sounds (not ricer but a nice rumble for a V6) and Magnaflow is made right here in USA (Rancho Santa Margarita in SoCal).

 

[Dave]

Well, the Old Man Emu Dakars are flat. Time to source a new set of rear leaf springs. Choices I'm pondering are:

AllPro Expedition springs with their u-bolt flip and Timbrens:
https://www.allprooffroad.com/05tacomarearsuspension/05tacomaleafsprings

A custom set from National Spring in San Diego:
http://www.nationalsprings.com/leafSprings.html

Iron Man 4x4 springs... only rated up to 440 lbs:
http://www.sierraexpeditions.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=4683

Or, just slap another set of OME Dakars ( CS047R ) on with the extra leaf again:
http://trdparts4u.toyotaofdallas.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=-7251

I'm going to talk to AllPro and find out more about the capacity of their Expedition springs and report back here. I think it's between them and National Spring at this point

 

[barlowrs]

I am in the same boat, my Dakars are flat. I had talked to Allpro before (and friends that worked there) and from what they have said, they will actually have a lower load rating than the Dakars, as there is NO overload leaf available for the Allpro pack. From what I was able to figure out, the Dakar with overload is the best option for standard pack (without going custom). Keeping an eye on this in case you come to different conclusions.

 

[Dave]

Interesting. My best bet may be custom springs then with the AllPro u-bolt flip and Timbrens. Of course, custom springs doubles the price of this important life cycle replacement... ugh. Nothing on this truck has been easy or cheap!

 

[soc.diver]

Lift research is actually how I found Dave and Barlowrs build threads on ExPo. I just (September) put the full OME lift kit on my 06 access cab. I did put the extra add-a-leaf in so it takes about 500# just to level it out. How much life did you get out of that spring pack?