Batteries - which are good, which are not

Scott B.

Adventurist
I am about to add a second battery to my truck, and am trying to answer the age old question of which battery to buy.

Historically, I am an Optima fan. However, once Johnson Controls bought the company and moved production south of the border, quality suffered. Really suffered. It seems quality has returned with the current products, but am I willing to take a chance?

I have read some about Odyssey - some people really like them. But I have no personal experience.

I have read about Die Hard and Northstar also, but again, no personal experience.

So, thoughts, opinions and suggestions.
 
I had the Diehard platinum (now discontinued) and was not impressed. I decided to try out an Exide 2 years ago and am very happy with it so far, but at least in SoCal, they are hard to find. Reasonable price, good specs, and made in the US. I ordered my Group 31 from Amazon, but they seem to no longer carry them.
 
Optima quality may have improved, but I don't know a single upfitter willing to take the gamble and risk putting their batteries into fleet operations again. They really burned a lot of bridges when batteries starting coming in from the field balloon shaped! Oddly, Johnson Controls has USA plants as well, but took the cheap route when they bought Optima, and moved them to Mexico.

Odyssey is a USA made battery by a company called EnerSys, they have military contracts with their Hawker line, so production will remain here. They always use 100% virgin lead, and not recycled lead that has been purified. They have a great number of patents that make their batteries superior. Some folks will say that Northstar is a copy of Odyssey, but the patents that Odyssey owns assures that they are not.

Odyssey did have a form-factor change that affects people replacing their stock batteries with the Group 31-M, which now requires the Slee Offroad terminal extensions, as they moved the posts further away from the back edge of the battery which puts too much strain on the cables. The correct size form-factor does not have this issue, but it's capacity is smaller.

I'm personally testing a Full River "FullThrottle" battery right now, and after last weekend I'm not that impressed with it, it got pretty low pretty quick. They're a chinese battery made with recycled lead, and I'm not sure about construction enough to say it's handled trail vibrations very well. A battery that can't handle vibrations will suffer tiny fractures internally affecting their charging and discharging.

Deka makes a great battery at a decent price, they serve as great house batteries, and you can get a Group 31 with 110 amp hours.

If you're going with a second battery, especially a larger one, with CTEK and REDARC battery isolators/DC to DC chargers, not only do they properly charge AGM batteries that will increase your battery life, but some have built in solar options. These DC to DC chargers increase the charging voltage to allow the batteries charge at the levels they desire. The other added benefit to a DC to DC charger being that you won't have to upgrade your starting battery to match chemistry (It's generally not desirable to have a "flooded cell" battery mixed with an AGM battery, although people do it, their AGM battery will not charge properly and reduce its lifespan).
 
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Optima quality may have improved, but I don't know a single upfitter willing to take the gamble and risk putting their batteries into fleet operations again. They really burned a lot of bridges when batteries starting coming in from the field balloon shaped! Oddly, Johnson Controls has USA plants as well, but took the cheap route when they bought Optima, and moved them to Mexico.

Odyssey is a USA made battery by a company called EnerSys, they have military contracts with their Hawker line, so production will remain here. They always use 100% virgin lead, and not recycled lead that has been purified. They have a great number of patents that make their batteries superior. Some folks will say that Northstar is a copy of Odyssey, but the patents that Odyssey owns assures that they are not.

Odyssey did have a form-factor change that affects people replacing their stock batteries with the Group 31-M, which now requires the Slee Offroad terminal extensions, as they moved the posts further away from the back edge of the battery which puts too much strain on the cables. The correct size form-factor does not have this issue, but it's capacity is smaller.

I'm personally testing a Full River "FullThrottle" battery right now, and after last weekend I'm not that impressed with it, it got pretty low pretty quick. They're a chinese battery made with recycled lead, and I'm not sure about construction enough to say it's handled trail vibrations very well. A battery that can't handle vibrations will suffer tiny fractures internally affecting their charging and discharging.

Deka makes a great battery ad a decent price, they serve as great house batteries, and you can get a Group 31 with 110 amp hours.

If you're going with a second battery, especially a larger one, with CTEK and REDARC battery isolators/DC to DC chargers, not only do they properly charge AGM batteries that will increase your battery life, but some have built in solar options. These DC to DC chargers increase the charging voltage to allow the batteries charge at the levels they desire. The other added benefit to a DC to DC charger being that you won't have to upgrade your starting battery to match chemistry (It's generally not desirable to have a "flooded cell" battery mixed with an AGM battery, although people do it, their AGM battery will not charge properly and reduce its lifespan).

Mitch,

Thank you for the candid answer.

Since you brought up isolators, I will extend my question. ;)

I have used CTEK products in the past, and been very satisfied with their quality and function. You mention their isolators - I have used (and was planning to again use) a Blue Sea Systems ACR - Automatic Charging Relay - between batteries. Do you have any experience or opinion on the ACR?

When using one in the past, I had 2 Optima batteries, so no mixed types. In my current setup, I will probably run mixed types until I replace my starting battery (it is 3 years old, so in another year or 2).
 
Odyssey & Trojan.

Optima's story is similar to a lot of others in the car world. Mobil 1 isn't the greatest synthetic anymore either. Optima is another company riding out their brand and recognition to consumers who don't know or aren't as involved as the enthusiast community.
 
Odyssey & Trojan.

Optima's story is similar to a lot of others in the car world. Mobil 1 isn't the greatest synthetic anymore either. Optima is another company riding out their brand and recognition to consumers who don't know or aren't as involved as the enthusiast community.

It's really sad to see companies riding out their brand. I see it in the camping/backpacking product arena also. Don't they realize they will eventually lose all their customers? (OK, most, since some people are completely clueless.)

Looks like it is time to further investigate Odyssey batteries.
 
I have had multiple DieHard Platinum batteries, which were made by Odyssey. Had great luck with them and wish Sears still sold them. I might look at going with an Interstate MT7 series (AGM), if I don't go with an Odyssey.
 
Mitch,

Thank you for the candid answer.

Since you brought up isolators, I will extend my question. ;)

I have used CTEK products in the past, and been very satisfied with their quality and function. You mention their isolators - I have used (and was planning to again use) a Blue Sea Systems ACR - Automatic Charging Relay - between batteries. Do you have any experience or opinion on the ACR?

When using one in the past, I had 2 Optima batteries, so no mixed types. In my current setup, I will probably run mixed types until I replace my starting battery (it is 3 years old, so in another year or 2).
I have a great amount of experience with the Blue Sea ACR 7622 and others like it. They are basically "dumb" combining relays, voltage smart, but they don't have any intelligence when it comes to the State of Charge of the auxiliary battery, like DC to DC chargers do.

A solenoid/ACR will keep the batteries combined, no matter what, so long as the solenoid is engaged, or as long as the ACR senses charging level voltage coming in.

A DC to DC charger, in the case of REDARC and CTEK, will boost the incoming charge voltage, and apply a multi-stage charge profile (Bulk, Absorption, Float) to the battery. Float being the 'trickle' portion of the process for when the battery is charged and just needs to be kept topped off.

In short, DC to DC chargers are far superior to ACR's and Solenoids.
 
I have a great amount of experience with the Blue Sea ACR 7622 and others like it. They are basically "dumb" combining relays, voltage smart, but they don't have any intelligence when it comes to the State of Charge of the auxiliary battery, like DC to DC chargers do.

A solenoid/ACR will keep the batteries combined, no matter what, so long as the solenoid is engaged, or as long as the ACR senses charging level voltage coming in.

A DC to DC charger, in the case of REDARC and CTEK, will boost the incoming charge voltage, and apply a multi-stage charge profile (Bulk, Absorption, Float) to the battery. Float being the 'trickle' portion of the process for when the battery is charged and just needs to be kept topped off.

In short, DC to DC chargers are far superior to ACR's and Solenoids.

Mitch,

maybe a dumb question, but is it a one or the other option? Meaning you either use the ACR or the DC to DC correct? You can't have both correct?
 
I have a great amount of experience with the Blue Sea ACR 7622 and others like it. They are basically "dumb" combining relays, voltage smart, but they don't have any intelligence when it comes to the State of Charge of the auxiliary battery, like DC to DC chargers do.

A solenoid/ACR will keep the batteries combined, no matter what, so long as the solenoid is engaged, or as long as the ACR senses charging level voltage coming in.

A DC to DC charger, in the case of REDARC and CTEK, will boost the incoming charge voltage, and apply a multi-stage charge profile (Bulk, Absorption, Float) to the battery. Float being the 'trickle' portion of the process for when the battery is charged and just needs to be kept topped off.

In short, DC to DC chargers are far superior to ACR's and Solenoids.

That makes sense.

How do you wire it? Alternator -> DC to DC -> CTEK -> House Battery
_________________________________________-> Second Battery

(I am trying to indicate each battery is attached to the CTEK)
 
I have had multiple DieHard Platinum batteries, which were made by Odyssey. Had great luck with them and wish Sears still sold them. I might look at going with an Interstate MT7 series (AGM), if I don't go with an Odyssey.

Yeah, when Sears lost that contract they lost me. DieHard Platinum was my go-to for many years, and they were IDENTICAL to an Odyssey minus the color of the case.

I've also had Odyssey and while expensive, I always felt like it was a good investment. Any battery that lives beyond 6 years is extraordinary IMO, and that was my experience with them. Made in USA too.

I hear good things about Deka (East Penn) but have never had one. Made in USA as well.

Speaking of made in USA, almost every auto battery you can buy was made in the US or Mexico. Since they contain so much lead they are too heavy, and thus costly, to ship from overseas. That may change as China recycles more metals and gets in the game.

Johnson Controls (Optima) is probably the largest battery manufacturer in North America with significant manufacturing in Mexico. Their batteries are sold under almost every house brand name you can think of including DieHard, Duralast, Interstate, ProStart, and Everstart as well as about a dozen private label brands you'd never guess. These are all brands that I avoid.
 
The first Optima red top I bought (in the late '90s, I think) had an Interstate Batteries sticker on it. At the time, I assumed Interstate was buying/selling Optimas under contract.

Forshadowing to a future company purchase?
 
And continuing the questions,

Is a Group 34 sufficient, or should I spend the extra money on a Group 31?

Perhaps a G34 starting battery and G31 second?
 
I have 4 Deka gp31 battries, not HAD. 2 in the trailer and 2 in my truck, Not a problem with them at all. Yea kinda heavy but have been keeping things alive for years and no problems. To earn a spot in the truck you better perform and perform well.
 
Mitch,

maybe a dumb question, but is it a one or the other option? Meaning you either use the ACR or the DC to DC correct? You can't have both correct?
It is one or the other. You would not need an ACR in a DC to DC charger scenario. They are both Isolators.

DC to DC allows you to run much smaller wires (BOTH + and -, don't be cheap, run both battery to battery) 8 gauge or 6 gauge.

The SINGLE advantage an ACR can give you, if the cables (BOTH + and -, don't be cheap here either, run both battery to battery) are large enough, 2 gauge or larger, you can "self-jump".

But if you choose DC to DC, you can always carry a pair of jumper cables, or a lithium jump pack.
 
And continuing the questions,

Is a Group 34 sufficient, or should I spend the extra money on a Group 31?

Perhaps a G34 starting battery and G31 second?
Get the biggest battery you can fit/afford. The 30 to 40 amp hours missing in a smaller battery will be missed.

Something else to consider: Do you really NEED a second battery? Or will replacing your stock battery with a Group 31/100 Amp Hour do the job for you? If the only task is to carry a fridge through the night and maybe a couple camp lights, you might find a single battery will do the trick just fine.

I use a single battery, but I keep solar on it if I'm sitting still. If I arrive to camp mid-afternoon, I will still put solar on it to take advantage of every last bit of sunlight. No sense in abusing my battery just because it can run my fridge for two days without a charge.
 
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My .02 cents...

Believe it or not I've had the best luck with the battery's that came in the vehicle new, most lasted 6+ years.
My luck with replacement batteries has been no bueno. That includes, Optima (got so damn hot I couldn't touch it for an hour!) full disclose, it sat on a wood block for 2/3 years before using. I bought it for a the Woodie/Hotrod I was building that would be finished in a couple months, 2/3+ years latter when I finally did finish it the battery failed (my bad). Lesson learned, don't buy a battery WAY before you need it! Similar story's with Exide and Interstate batterys.

I've now gone to Walmart for battery's for a few reasons, they're everywhere (I have two stores near by me in the middle of Old Mexico), cheap and and have a good return/replacement policy. Don't know where they're made, don't care, So far so good.

Final thought, don't listen to me, do what @Mitch says he really does know what he's talking about!
Live long and prosper! :stars:mike
 
A DC to DC charger, in the case of REDARC and CTEK, will boost the incoming charge voltage, and apply a multi-stage charge profile (Bulk, Absorption, Float) to the battery. Float being the 'trickle' portion of the process for when the battery is charged and just needs to be kept topped off.

This is often overlooked and really important to maintaining the longevity of batteries. Especially if you're using them for something other than starting your rig. Probably almost as important as sticking to discharge limits.
 
My .02 cents...

Believe it or not I've had the best luck with the battery's that came in the vehicle new, most lasted 6+ years.

My 2005 Tacoma had an OEM battery like that. Of course, I "upgraded" the OEM battery after about 2 years of service so it was relegated to a work bench ornament where it was ignored for a long while.

Eventually, I put it on a smart charger and when it was about 8 years old it served duty as a replacement for our Honda Pilot battery. It was still going strong when we sold the Honda.
 
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