Are Rock Sliders Necessary?

I recommend staying away from aluminum... if you ever use it in the rocks it will not fare well from the abrasion and gouging that will inevitably occur. Additionally it is significantly less malleable than metal prohibiting easy repair; in fact it is actually more brittle and prone to fracture under sustained, repeated abuse.

Keep in mind, sliders aren't intended to deflect shopping carts but designed to mitigate force measured in tons. I know - you'll never get in that situation - un-huh. I prefer to overbuild in the case I get over my head - the "7 P's" applies here.

Below picture is a sample weld-on slider piece we made for the "show room" to explain the components of what a good slider looks like. Also, I'm not a fan of "bolt-on" sliders, a topic almost as passionate as religion or tires, so I'll defer any explanation of why they fail(ed) in my personal experience (with pinch weld and rocker panel damage to prove it). Incidentally, when putting my truck on the lift, I don't use the frame for support - I use the sliders - they're that strong that they can suspend the whole weight of the vehicle. They may weigh 70-90 pounds per side, but it's flippin' a.r.m.o.r., not sissy bars. If your total weight is an issue, pack less crap - this is protection for your vehicle, not subject to compromise IMHO.

10649460_810412632336169_6120103171857605781_n.jpg
 
The grip step on the top is also a big plus. You don't want to slip and fall on those. By design, they are unforgiving.
 
My view on rock sliders is very similar to my view on seat belts: I'd rather have them and not need them than need them and not have them.

Case in point... While not a full-size-truck, I ran my both my '96 and '97 ZJ's without sliders for years. It showed. I only did "easy" trails but still managed to rough them up pretty well. With a long wheel base, a mild lift of 2", and near-stock tires at 31" I found myself high-centered a lot. When I got the 2004 Wrangler Unlimited rock-sliders were one of the first things I put on. I think they were 3rd after the body lift and tires. That's how much I believe they are needed.

That said, how "hard core" your sliders are depends on your overall goal. I do a little rock crawling so I went with pretty heavy-duty ones. I also wanted something strong enough that I could slap a Hi-Lift on when needed.

Also, for what it's worth, I subscribe to the low-and-slow philosophy of trail riding and rock-crawling and that with a good driver and a well armored rig you can go a lot further and have more fun than the guys with the big lifts and big tires.

So, are they needed, not really. Are they desirable, yeah.
 
I will add a little clarification. Understand that I am not an expert, but I do have an engineering degree (and I once stayed...)

Running boards are merely steps, often made of plastic, designed to hold the weight of a person standing on them, and are only suitable for mall crawlers.

Rock sliders are steel bars designed to keep rocks (boulders) from contacting your lower body panels and rocker panels. They attach to the frame rails by welding or bolting them on, your preference. They should be designed and fitted so that they can carry the full weight of the vehicle without much deflection. (My first trip with mine was on the Rubicon, and I was literally rocking on them. Went over two boulders and was stuck suspended in the air) They should be placed so that, when deflected upward under load (they will deflect some), they don't contact and damage the rocker panels they are supposed to protect. Don't tuck them in too tight to the body. They should extend outward away from the body sufficiently to protect from boulders to the side and provide a pivot point, but not so far that they make it difficult to enter and exit the vehicle (considering the amount of lift). They can also be used as steps to access the roof etc., so the grip tape is good. If you travel on trails where there are rocks, they will get scuffed and gouged. That just means they are doing their job protecting your truck.
 
100acrehuphalump said:
Are rock sliders mainly only used for rock crawling?
Do they have many other uses?( I did hear Tango mention attachment points when winching at a class at the East Expo).
Do they add much weight to a vehicle?
If you were gonna have someone fab up a set, what gauge steel wold you use, and would your want to use round or square tubing and why?
Where and how would you have it attached to the frame of the truck?
Thanks. Dan
Click to expand...

This is a great question! As I add to the truck in the armor department I was asking myself the same question. Thanks Dan
 
steve c said:
As mentioned earlier, they're great for using your hi-lift to change a tire. Even on pavement.

Click to expand...

Steve, have you thought about those bigger bases for the Hi-Lift? I have the Bogart one and it's super stable, it takes one of the scary negatives out of using the Hi-Lift, the topple feature.

Matt
 
You should look for a local fabricator who has done them before. Ask around locally for recommendations. Look at other vehicles to see what they have and what features you like. Look at what is done for Tacomas, as they are more commonly done on them. Then have them built to your spec.
 
Matt said:
Steve, have you thought about those bigger bases for the Hi-Lift? I have the Bogart one and it's super stable, it takes one of the scary negatives out of using the Hi-Lift, the topple feature.

Matt
Click to expand...

Yes, they're on the list. Thanks for the reminder.
 
100acrehuphalump said:
90 lbs each is a bit much to add per side. I curse the day I bought a 1/2 ton without a payload package:headbang
Click to expand...

And here in lies the problem with anyone who looks at putting a full camper (popup or hard side) into a 1/2 ton truck. They are just not rated for the load that will end up in the truck. Heck my 3/4 ton Dodge sits at 8600 lbs. with an 8800 lbs. GVW. I wish I had more headroom than a couple hundred pounds and in reality, I am below what the typical guy has weight wise. I read of folks 1500-2000 lbs. OVER GVW.
 
Mike said:
And here in lies the problem with anyone who looks at putting a full camper (popup or hard side) into a 1/2 ton truck. They are just not rated for the load that will end up in the truck. Heck my 3/4 ton Dodge sits at 8600 lbs. with an 8800 lbs. GVW. I wish I had more headroom than a couple hundred pounds and in reality, I am below what the typical guy has weight wise. I read of folks 1500-2000 lbs. OVER GVW.
Click to expand...
That makes me feel so much better, thanks! I don't think I'll be pushing too much over GVWR, and I may be towing my little expedition trailer for extra gear etc. I'm gonna do some highway tests hauling the camper and, or towing the trailer to get a better idea of what I can or cannot do. Thank you to everyone for all of your responses so far. Dan
 
If you have questions about getting sliders built to your specs in your locale there are 2 members on this forum who might help you. Mike@UORTC (Two Guys Metal Fab) and Ujoint (Ujoint Offroad) both have fabrication capability and are in NC. Send them a PM...
 
TangoBlue said:
If you have questions about getting sliders built to your specs in your locale there are 2 members on this forum who might help you. Mike@UORTC (Two Guys Metal Fab) and Ujoint (Ujoint Offroad) both have fabrication capability and are in NC. Send them a PM...
Click to expand...

X2 :thumbsup
 
TangoBlue said:
If you have questions about getting sliders built to your specs in your locale there are 2 members on this forum who might help you. Mike@UORTC (Two Guys Metal Fab) and Ujoint (Ujoint Offroad) both have fabrication capability and are in NC. Send them a PM...
Click to expand...

Very good advice, thanks Tim!
 
Being able to pivot on a rock is probably the best reason to have sliders.

Watching idiots that park too close to your rig damage their doors, as opposed to your rig, on the rock sliders is generally the most often use.
 
Hey Dan look at it this way they're just another "safety" feature much like a jack or spare tire.... you don't really need them till you NEED them,then you're glad you have them. Enjoy the hunt for the correct ones and have a cold root beer while you explore.
 
woody said:
Hey Dan look at it this way they're just another "safety" feature much like a jack or spare tire.... you don't really need them till you NEED them,then you're glad you have them. Enjoy the hunt for the correct ones and have a cold root beer while you explore.
Click to expand...
Thanks Woody!
 
woody said:
Hey Dan look at it this way they're just another "safety" feature much like a jack or spare tire.... you don't really need them till you NEED them,then you're glad you have them. Enjoy the hunt for the correct ones and have a cold root beer while you explore.
Click to expand...
I'm with Woody on this. I don't have rock sliders, but after drv 2014, and landing my passenger side front under the door, square onto a rock, which caved in the pinch weld pretty good, I certainly was wishing I had them. I still don't have them but right now it's a matter of money...
 
Scott said:
I'm with Woody on this. I don't have rock sliders, but after drv 2014, and landing my passenger side front under the door, square onto a rock, which caved in the pinch weld pretty good, I certainly was wishing I had them. I still don't have them but right now it's a matter of money...
Click to expand...
For me it's finding someone that can make them. I spoke with Chris at Ujoint Off-road today and he doesn't have the equipment yet. Raul at expedition outfitters says he's never found someone who makes them for F-150's. RCI metalworks makes them but aren't really HD enough. I have yet to contact the guys at Uhwarrie off road training center.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom