2003 Tundra

bob91yj

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#21
^^^^If you decide on the Addicted Offroad products, tell Scotty Cunningham that Bob Green said to give you the good guy price! I've known Scotty for years, he was a Jeep guy years ago.
 

Haggis

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#22
Other bumper options for an AC cab Tundy are the ARB unit and Brute Force Fabricating. Also as the ARB unit for the Tundra sticks out quite a bit if you find a used ARB bumper for a 100 series Land Cruiser they tuck up nice on a Tundra with some modifications.
 
#23
^^^^If you decide on the Addicted Offroad products, tell Scotty Cunningham that Bob Green said to give you the good guy price! I've known Scotty for years, he was a Jeep guy years ago.
You bet I will, Thanks!
Other bumper options for an AC cab Tundy are the ARB unit and Brute Force Fabricating. Also as the ARB unit for the Tundra sticks out quite a bit if you find a used ARB bumper for a 100 series Land Cruiser they tuck up nice on a Tundra with some modifications.
I will definitely look at the LC bumpers. Not a fan of the ARB Tundra bumper, but I am a fan of their products.
 
#24
Skid Row front and engine skid plates arrived today. As I found on my jeeps, quality products. The Tundra however has different ideas. All bolt holes I need to access are either too rusted to accept the bolts or have bolts broken off in them. I do not have the appropriate tap (imagine that) so tomorrow I will try and pick up what I need and go from there. If for some reason that does not work, I will drill out the holes, weld in nuts (hopefully not mine) and improvise, adapt and overcome, as is my birthright (having been reborn on PI circa 1985). That is all, carry on.
 
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#25
Took a bit of an extended "lunch" today and after a meeting in Troy, headed out to Uwharrie. Aired down and hit a couple of the easy trails, Wolfs Den and Falls Dam. The truck did really well, idled over everything. It is essential for me to understand what the truck is capable of in it's current, stock form to decide what modifications are needed. I am not trying to make this into a rock crawler, but want to make sure it can go where I want it to. So far so good. I was impressed.
 
#27
Looking to lift this thing just a bit. After too much reading across internet land, I do not think I want to do the typical 2.5" lift. I am more interested in about 1 - 1.5" front and rear to maintain the factory rake. When I load the camper, we sink exactly 1" at the rear wheel well, so the truck is level at that point. I want that to continue and I actually like the factory rake.
I am not planning on any heavy wheeling with this truck, so some skid plates, a mild lift, bumper and winch. Coming from jeeps, the factory ride is just fine with me :) so the lift is mostly about looks... and adding a little bit of extra clearance.

Thoughts on this? spacer up front and add a leaf out back? Would this impact the reliability/durability of the front end?
 

Haggis

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#28
I ran the Bilstien 5100s for 186,000 miles (2.5 sets) and they preformed very well. Well mine were set at 2.5" you can set them at a lower level. A sets gonna run you about $210. Also if you find yourself heading north I have a set of DC Tundra rear springs with the Wheeler AAL just sitting in my garage. They could be yours...
 
#29
I ran the Bilstien 5100s for 186,000 miles (2.5 sets) and they preformed very well. Well mine were set at 2.5" you can set them at a lower level. A sets gonna run you about $210. Also if you find yourself heading north I have a set of DC Tundra rear springs with the Wheeler AAL just sitting in my garage. They could ieyours...
Thanks for that Mark. I ran Bilststein 5100 shocks on my LJ and really liked them.

Somehow I missed that you can run the struts at lower than 2.5" Will look into it. Can't see a trip to PA this fall between work, Jonah's graduation out in Spokane and a couple other irons in the fire... I appreciate that offer though!
 
#30
Been a while on this, but I have not done anything to the truck because it was doing what I needed it to. This past week a co worker approached me with a set of 16" tundra rims with some BFG 285/75/16 tires. He was asking next to nothing. Oh... I got all excited about the lift I "needed" and ran fast down that path... then I thought.. well, let me just mount these puppies and see...
So that's what I did. Here is what I got (sorry no pictures... use the theater of your mind) They fit fine. Looks great, rides awesome, much less road noise. I have slight rubbing on the passenger side control arm at full left hand turn. For the way I am using this truck this seems fine.
Having never been a Toyota guy, I am guessing a bit on this, but looking for your input if you have experience with this. On my jeeps I had no issues with tires sometimes rubbing. Input?
 
#31
Noticed today that the rubbing at full lock is on the frame, not the control arm. Makes me less inclined to think it is an issue I need to address until these used tires wear out and I replace with new 285's.
 

Haggis

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#32
If you mean to continue using the factory 16" wheels a set of spacers would solve that. I don't like spacers though, so... 285s on a Tundra like 4" of backspacing over the factory 5.5", this cures the rub without the wheel and tire sticking to far out.
 
#33
Wow, just realizing it has been 4 months since writing anything on this thread. I have done nothing else to the truck :) seems to do everything I am asking it to. Daily driver, work on the farm, tote the camper, mild trails. I did get the timing belt and water pump done. I am at 166k and have no records of if it had been done.
Reason for the post is to report a bit of fuel mileage study. This is all with the camper loaded and highway mileage. I know there are a thousand factors, but not being a scientist or anything, this is good enough for my purposes. I am happy for you to give me your thoughts on this.
When I run regular unleaded 87 octane, I average 12.6 mpg. When I run Premium 93 octane, I average 14.6 mpg. Taking into account the difference in price per gallon, the 87 octane costs me $0.24 per mile, the 93 octane costs me $0.25 per mile. No great difference. I do get an increase of 52 more miles per tank (max) with 93. The last thing is that if I run the 93 on the highway, my CEL will eventually turn off. It returns when I either switch back to 87 or when I go back to prolonged surface street driving.
Interestingly, I get nearly no benefit from 92 octane premium, so it seems that the 93 octane is the tipping point.
 

Borrego60

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#36
Installed Timbren SES today to help with tail dragging when the camper is loaded. As mentioned earlier I picked up some new ubolts and cut the old ones off due to rust. The ubolt plates got cleaned up with the wire brush on the grinder and painted with rust inhibitor and then enamel.
There are mixed reviews on the Timbrens but I am a fan of simplicity, so I want to try these out first and only go to air bags if needed. Also got some 10ga wire strung for mounting a 12v power source back near the tailgate. Then Joe diverted my attention to begin a project for Ann's upcoming birthday.
View attachment 32806 View attachment 32807
I WOULD GO WITH SOME AIR BAG CUPS FOR THE BOTTOM OF THE BAGS.
 
#39
What engine? If it's the 2UZ V-8 you should be running premium fuel anyway.
Dang it, somehow I missed this post completely. I was just coming back to my thread to note my new tires and saw this. So @TangoBlue, the 4.7 requires premium at all fill ups? I did not know that. Would that cause the CEL?

^^^^What code are you getting? The only thing that pops into my mind is a knock sensor code when under load with the lower octane rating.
Bob my code (I cannot remember the number at the moment) is for 02 sensors, the first one if I understand correctly. My neighbor/mechanic says no need to replace until I cannot pass an inspection... That won't be until next July, but it would be nice to not have the CEL.
 

TangoBlue

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#40
Dang it, somehow I missed this post completely. I was just coming back to my thread to note my new tires and saw this. So @TangoBlue, the 4.7 requires premium at all fill ups? I did not know that. Would that cause the CEL?


Bob my code (I cannot remember the number at the moment) is for 02 sensors, the first one if I understand correctly. My neighbor/mechanic says no need to replace until I cannot pass an inspection... That won't be until next July, but it would be nice to not have the CEL.
Yes. Changing fuel quality (variable octane) is what the computer is sensing and trying to compensate for, thus throwing CEL's. One of the 3 reasons I did not want to go Toyota V8 when doing the engine swap. This may even be showing codes for the O2 sensors as well because of the erratic burn conditions. Stick with high octane and you may very well see the codes eventually clear themselves after a few consistent performance drive cycles.
 
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