Small upgrade to the explorer

Happy Joe

Adventurist
Since ARB has a buy one get a free compressor (until the end of the month) sale going on I decided to pull the trigger on an air locker for the explorer. The (IFS) lack of wheel travel really limits the off road utility of this vehicle and since a locker covers up a multitude of sins I figure that it might be enough to let me camp on/off moderate trails.

...Turns out that the discount parts store has none for an ford 8.8 so I am reduced to waiting for a slow banana boat from down under.

In the mean time it gives me the opportunity to scrounge the scrapyard for a set of 4.11 gears (not going for Big tires this time)...

Enjoy!
 
Ordered and reiceived a torsen limited slip for the front;
https://torsen.com/product/ford-dana-35/
Wanted a selectable locker but they do not seem to be available.

... still waiting on the ARB; apparently it is, really, being shipped by slow banana boat...

Fords (rangers/explorers) with 4.11 gears seem to be a bit rare in the scrapyards...

Enjoy!
 
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Jeep guys used to look for the Explorer 8.8 with 4.10's to put in Wrangler YJ's (87-95, square headlights). They have the correct width and rear disc brakes vs the D35 with drum brakes.
 
Yep! they also work for TJ jeeps and XJ Cherokees although the spring mounts probably have to be moved/fabricated... (relatively easy if you have a welder and grinder).
Tomorrow I'll inventory the largest close scrapyard for axles, a manual (Ranger) transfer case w/shifter and some vacuum front hubs (from newer Rangers), easy to convert to manual lockouts. I hear that some newer FX-4? Rangers (rare birds) came with torsen rear diffs.
Not a need but would go well under my old Ranger pick up.

Time to get lucky...

Enjoy!
 
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Out of like 60+ vehicles I found exactly 1 that (probably) has 4.10 gears ... Hope the weather is not too hot tomorrow.
...quite a few Ford tow loops, 5 speeds (both rangers and explorers) and at least 3 with vacuum hubs ... unfortunately no manual transfer cases; will have to dig harder once I get the axles & gears procured.
Enjoy!
 
Getting the rear axle assembly out of the donor vehicle, was a bit of a hassle, had to cut the spring shackles since the bolts were attached with perma-rust (they effectively ignored bathing in multiple spray on chemicals and the BFH)... (going to be fun getting them off mine without damage, I'm sure).
With 150K on the donor vehicle odometer there is an excellent chance that the internals are in good shape.
Haven't pulled the rear cover yet but the axles seems be a 4.10 geared, limited slip (fair chance that it is a torsen), 31 spline, disk brake (included, complete) rear 8.8.
Total cost so far less than $120 (with an extended junk yard warrantee).
Need to unload it from the pickup and set it on jack stands for teardown, inspection and replacement of the axle seals and brakes... (wish the air locker would arrive).

Enjoy!
 
Went back and got the front diff w/4.10 gears (open carrier) cost was $70 and about 2 easy hours to pull it; Was much easier than I thought it would be; (kudos to the BFH and 30 inch breaker bar, honorable mention to the 31mm impact sockett for the axle nut ...).
...Need to get some replacement springs ($16 ea. spotted a clean low mileage Mercury Mountaineer at the yard), mine are definitely sagging. The Torsen diff for the front is here so I can start on it while waiting for the rear locker (camping is deservedly, taking time away from this project.

Enjoy!
 
How about some pics...
Installing a Torsen limited slip carrier in an Explorer, Dana 35, IFS/SLA front axle housing...

enjoy!

stub loose cover renoved DSCF0264.jpg

Stub axle loose cover removed

stub axle and carrier removed caps in place DSCF0265.jpg

Stub axle removed, carrier removed, bearing caps in place

ring gear bolts removed DSCF0266.jpg

Ring gear bolts removed

...since I got rid of the press; I'm back to doing this the old fashioned way; with a medium beater and a brass drift...
ring gear removed DSCF0267.jpg

ring gear removed
 
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Last 2 pics for today sweat is running in my eyes...
Enjoy!

pulling bearings DSCF0268.jpg

Pulling bearings...

...Again sincee the press is gone its time for the dead blow (to start the bearing onto the carrier) and brass drifts (with a medium beater) to persuade the bearing into place...
bearings installed without shims on torsen carrier DSCF0269.jpg

bearings on Torsen carrier without shims.
 
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More pics; end of first pass to get backlash....

Measure total end play no shims DSCF0271.jpg

Measure total end play (no shims).

...install and torque ring gear onto carrier.
Install carrier and ring gear (without shims) into housing; finger tight bearing caps to allow end t o end movement...
Measure ring to pinion end play DSCF0274.jpg

Measure ring to pinion endplay (no shims)

Pull bearings to add shimsDSCF0272.jpg

calculate (first pass) shims and pull bearings.

Calculation of approximate (~) shim thickness;
Total end play +0.008" bearing preload - ring to pinion endplay = ~ pinon side bearing shims.
~ ring gear side bearing shims = ring to pinion endplay -0.003" (to allow 0.006" backlash).

Add shims first try DSCF0273.jpg

Add (first pass) shims and reinstall bearings.

Measure backlash first pass DSCF0275.jpg

Measure backlash... "Missed it by that much..." (0.018"; spec. is 0.005" to 0.008").

Enjoy!
 
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...Was distracted by life yesterday;
Got out in the shop and shifted 0.004" of shims from the pinion side bearing to the ring gear side bearing... brought the backlash down to 0.009"... still to much.
Since there is quite a large stack of shims on the ring gear side I will try consolidating them into fewer but thicker shims... Good practice, as taught to me, was to shoot for no more than 3 shims in a stack.
The plan is to move a .002" shim from the pinion gear side to the ring gear side.

Enjoy!

measuring shims DSCF0276.jpg

Measuring shims
 
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Consolidated shims and adjusted them to move the ring gear 0.002" closer to the pinion...
Got a backlash of 0.007" which is within tolerance (checked about 6 points around the pinion and the worst was 0.008" which is at the upper limit of tolerance but still acceptable); called it good and torqued the bearing cap bolts the final time.

I have done this many times over the years but still learn something each time;
I learned not to depend on the measurements from cheap chinese digital calipers... went back to the old dial calipers (which have passed many calibration checks in a commercial calibration facility).
(Makes me wish that I had not sold the precision gauge blocks)...
...This made me a bit paranoid, so I checked the click type torque wrenches against the old reliable, antique, bending beam torque wrench and found them off by as much as 9 ft-pounds) finished the final torque with the bending beam torque wrench (which depends on the properties and machining of the steel in its beam for accuracy.. not something that can easily change).

Need to stop and get a fresh tube of silicon to seal the cover... and a magnetic drain plug to capture any steel that comes from the Torsen differential as it wears in...

Now its time for more scrap yard entertainment, while I wait for the ARB...

Enjoy!
 
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Picked the ARB air locker up Saturday; now I can no longer put off clearing a space to work on the axle in the garage...
The plan is to drop the ARB into the junkyard; 8.8 ,31spline, 4.10 axle then to switch that out with the one under the EX.
Since there doesn't seem to be any good space for the (incredibly ugly) ARB switches, I will do a stealth install; wiring the compressor to activate when the 4WD selector is turned to 4LOW, then installing an old timey floor mounted bright/dim headlight switch (younger drivers may have never seen/used one) under the carpet near the emergency brake to activate and deactivate the locker with the driver's left foot.
I see little to no need to use the locker in 4 high since the chances that this vehicle can achieve floatation on/in truly deep snow are not significant and the disadvantages of a locked differential on icy roads are too great (lockers can cause a short wheelbase vehicle like a CJ/YJ/TJ/Explorer Sport (this one) to slide downhill/out of control, very easily).

Enjoy!
 
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