Second Gen Tacoma Tech

Dave

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Like most of you, I enjoy wrenching as a hobby. As a result, 99% of all maintenance and modifications featured on my Tacoma were completed by me at home using basic tools. Anyone can perform basic maintenance at home so long as you do your research before disassembling anything and take your time once you begin. It's a great way to unwind and provides you with detailed knowledge of the workings of your machine and invaluable experience should you need to repair something in the field.

Always use proper safety equipment like jack stands, wheel chocks, gloves and safety glasses. If you're doing a trail-side repair safety becomes even more important.

Below you will find information, sites and links that I use for quick reference when working on my truck at home:

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The Toyota GR engine family is an open-deck, V6 piston engine series. The GR series has a 60° die-cast aluminum block and aluminum DOHC cylinder heads. There have been 7 models of Toyota GR engine, 1GR-FE, 2GR-FE, 2GR-FSE, 3GR-FE, 3GR-FSE, 4GR-FSE, 5GR-FE.

The 1GR-FE engine is a 4.0-liter, 24-valve DOHC V6 engine. This engine uses the VVT-i (Variable Valve Timing-intelligent) system, DIS (Direct Ignition System), ACIS (Acoustic Control Induction System), and ETCS-i (Electronic Throttle Control System-intelligent). These control functions achieve improved engine performance, fuel economy, and clean emissions.

Behind the 1GR-FE the Tacoma comes equipped with a 6 speed manual or the excellent A750F 5 Speed Automatic Transmission (3.35 low ratio). Transfer case on all models is the stout VF2A with a low ratio of 2:57:1



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SPARK PLUGS: If it’s your first time changing the plugs on the 1GR-FE, you will notice that the Driver Side has NGK, and the passenger has Denso Plugs. Toyota has been doing this for eons, and no one has confirmed why they do this.
Using 6 identical Denso plugs is what I recommend, gapped @ .039 to .043. OEM does not use iridium plugs so I use regular plugs per OEM engine build specs but it's up to you. Pulling them out every 30K and having a look just makes sense to me.

Second gen plugs:

2TR-FE engine

Denso SK20HR11

NGK ILFR6C11

Gap .039" to .043"

1GR-FE engine

Denso K20HR-U11

NGK LFR6C-11

Gap .039" to .043"

1GR-FE Check Engine Light Trouble Codes: Sometimes you may have a CEL come on, this is why it's nice to have a Scangauge II so you can read them and know what's going on even if you are days from civilization. Two of the most common CEL codes are the P0171 & P0420 trouble codes.

P0171 or P0172= System Too Lean. Bank 1 is the drivers side of the engine, Bank 2 is the passenger side. Most of the time cleaning the MAF sensor will take care of the P0171 code.

P0420 or P0421 = Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold. The P0420 is usually a bad catatlytic converter. They become inefficient and do not register properly thru the rear o2 sensor. The cat/cats are 8yr/80k mileage warranty items.

With the P0171 the engine usually ends up running Lean. Lean=BAD. The engine and exhaust tend to be HOTTER and sometimes under the right conditions will COOK the Catalytic Converter. The NOX emmissions go up when engines run hotter and combustion temps increase. Therefore making exhaust temps increase and this is what cooks the CAT and fails smog testing. Keep the MAF clean to increase the life of the CAT.


1GR-FE THROTTLE BODY CLEANING


Hypoid gear oil APL GL-5
Above -18 °C (0 °F): SAE 90

Below -18 °C (0 °F): SAE 80W or 80W – 90

HOW TO CHANGE DIFF FLUID

You need:
24mm socket (transfer case)
10mm hex socket (front diff)
Oil Bucket / Coffee Can / Whatever
Hand Pump to pump the oil

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*NOTE: PB Blaster is good for any stuck bolts on this truck.

Front Diff - 2 QTS, APL GL-5 SAE 90 (10mm allen socket)

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Rear Diff - 3 QTS, APL GL-5 SAE 90 (torque fill and drain plugs (24mm socket) to ONLY 36 ft lbs per OEM specs!)


HOW TO CHANGE TRANSFER CASE FLUID

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SAE 75W-90, API GL-4 or GL-5

Transfer Case Fluid – 1.1 US QT, APL GL-5 SAE 75-90 (24mm socket)

1GR-FE Engine Oil – SAE 5W-30, OEM recommended. 5.5 US QTS, 4.6 Imp QTS

2nd Gen 4WD Tacoma Grease Fittings:
The Tacoma has a total of FIVE grease fittings that can be serviced: 3 on the rear driveshaft U-joints and 2 on the front drive shaft U-joints. I recommend hitting these with a pump or two of a high performance marine grade grease like Lucas Oil "Red n' Tacky #2" at every oil change.
NEVER leave it up to a dealersip or quickie lube joint to hit these grease fittings properly, always check their work. In my experience shops rarely do this right (or at all) even though you're paying them for "Lube, oil, and service". My Tacoma has had many dealer servicings and oil changes where the "Lube" portion of the service was not completed despite it being checked off on the paperwork.

2nd Gen Tacoma Fuel Tank Capacity and Gas Gauge:
Full tank: 21.1 gallons
3/4 tank: 16 gallons
1/2 tank: 12 gallons
1/4 tank: 8 gallons
Low Fuel Light: 4 gallons left
"E" Line: 3 gallons left (Reserve)

Resetting the “Maintenance Required” light on 2005+ Tacoma:
1. Turn ignition key to ‘ON’ and press the odometer button until the display reads actual mileage… not Trip A or B.
2. Turn ignition key to OFF.
3. Hold in the same button you used in step 1.
4. While holding the button in, turn ignition key to ‘ON’.
5. The ‘Maint Reqd’ light should blink and go out!

How To Reset the "Check Engine Light":
1. Turn off truck
2. Open hood
3. Disconnect negative battery cable from terminal
4. Wait 2 minutes
5. Reconnect negative battery cable
6. Close hood
7. Start truck
8. Check engine light should be off!

Note:
The Maintenance Required Light is different than the Check Engine Light

Directions For Engaging 4LO in your Tacoma:

1) If you have a Automatic Transmission you must be stopped and in Neutral.
2) If you have a Manual Transmission you must be stopped and the clutch must be in all the way.
Still Not Working? Have you Read your Owners Manual? Or the Info Card in the Visor?

IF you are having 4WD problems, the culprit is most likely located on your front diff - the ADD actuator may need replaced or electrical connections cleaned, here's what it looks like:

TACOMA LIGHT BULB REPLACEMENT:

2005 to 2008 Toyota Tacoma Light Bulb Size Chart
Low Beam Headlight Bulb Size: 9003/HB2
High Beam Headlight Bulb Size: 9003/HB2
Parking Light Bulb Size: 2827 or 4157NALL
Front Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 4157NALL
Rear Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 3157A
Tail Light Bulb Size: 3157
Stop Light Bulb Size: 3157
High Mount Stop Light Bulb Size: 168
Fog/Driving Light Bulb Size: 9145
License Plate Light Bulb Size: 168
Back Up Light Bulb Size: 921
Front Side Marker Light Bulb Size: 2827
Map Light Bulb Size: 168
Dome Light Bulb Size: DE3022

2009 to 2012 Toyota Tacoma Light Bulb Size Chart
Low Beam Headlight Bulb Size: 9003/HB2
High Beam Headlight Bulb Size: 9003/HB2
Parking Light Bulb Size: 2827 or 4157NALL
Front Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 4157NALL
Rear Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 3157A
Tail Light Bulb Size: LED
Stop Light Bulb Size: LED
High Mount Stop Light Bulb Size: 168
Fog/Driving Light Bulb Size: 9145
License Plate Light Bulb Size: 168
Back Up Light Bulb Size: 921
Front Side Marker Light Bulb Size: 2827
Map Light Bulb Size: 168
Dome Light Bulb Size: DE3022
TACOMA BRAKES, AXLES, WHEEL BEARINGS ETC.

FRONT:
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REAR:


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CHECKLISTS

Before Leaving:


  1. Axles & Differentials – bolts, boots, clips, u-joints, grease points. Check to ensure everything is tight and look for leaks or drips.
  2. Battery – clean terminals, check for damaged, corroded wiring. Check for loose connections.
  3. Brakes – drums, rotors, pads/shoes, fluid, hoses, leaks, check parking brake, brake lights. Helps to have a second person pressing on the breaks while checking.
  4. Belts & Hoses – look for cracks or bulges. Ensure spares are packed.
  5. Body/Frame - look for cracks and rust. Remove any sticks and debris caught up in the frame.
  6. Cooling/Heating system – look for leaks, fluid levels, clean and repair fins, check hoses and clamps, thermostat, radiator cap. Ensure leak repair kit is packed.
  7. Communications – CB / ham radio, antenna broadcast and receive.
  8. Driveline/Transmission – inspect case and shifter, leaks, fluids, universal & CV joints, skid plates.
  9. Engine – carburetor, fuel injectors, spark plugs, wires, PVC valve, pumps, distributor & wire, check for leaks and cracks, air filter (clean or replace). Keep an eye out for loose wires and hoses.
  10. Exhaust – muffler, tailpipes (rust or holes or hanging). Check all hardware holding tailpipes in place.
  11. Fluids – oil, transmission, brake, radiator coolant, gear oils, wipers, power steering (check levels and color). Ensure extra fluids packed in rig.
  12. Lights – headlights, brake lights, auxiliary lights; make sure they’re aimed properly, turn signals. Ensure extra bulbs packed in parts bin.
  13. Steering – check alignment, fluid level, belts and hoses, pump and reservoir. Look for leaks. Check tie-rod boots for tears or rips. Check all joints for play.
  14. Suspension – coil overs, springs, shocks, alignment, wheel bearings, steering linkage, control arms, pan bars. Notice unusual play in components.
  15. Tires – tighten (torque) lug nuts, air pressure, tread wear (including your full-size spare), look for cuts and missing chunks. Ensure auxiliary air pump is operational and packed.
  16. Winch – free spool rope and inspect, rewind onto drum occasionally. Check for loose connections and look for frayed rope.
  17. Wipers – check for wear, washer fluid level.
Trail Head Inspection:

Before you hit the trail start the engine and inspect the following while the truck warms up:

  1. Fuel level – check fuel gauge ensuring level is on full (plan for next fuel stop if necessary).
  2. Voltage – check voltage gauge for proper level.
  3. Oil pressure – check oil pressure gauge for proper pressure.
  4. Engine RPMs – check tachometer to ensure smooth maintained engine idle speed. Listen for misfires and unusual engine noise. (you should know your rig’s personality including how its engine sounds normally)
  5. Temperature – check temperature gauge to see proper operation and coolant temperature.
  6. Transfer case – ensure transfer case engages in 4 wheel high and 4 wheel low.
  7. Traction control – test rear locker engages correctly. Test A-trac (or front locker) for proper engagement.
  8. Load – ensure load is properly secured. Check Hi-lift jack, shovel and any exterior mounted items.
  9. Walk around – make one last walk around the rig. Look for any item left out. Ensure valve stem caps are screwed on after airing down. Check that nothing was left resting on the spare, bumper, hood or roof.
If you are on a multi-day off road adventure stop early enough so that you can fully inspect your truck for damage while the sun is still out. Stopping early also gives you enough daylight to make camp and see what you are doing if repairs are needed. Tip: remember fluid levels change based on the engine temperature.
While a checklist wont prevent breakage, it will go a long way to lessening potential problems. By catching leaks, tears and loose bolts early on, you can hopefully avoid finding yourself trying to reconnect a brake line while standing in axle deep mud. But just in case something unexpected happens… carry lots of duct tape, zip ties and baling wire!

Toyota Tacoma 2005-2012 - 30,000 - 60,000 - 90,000 - 120,000 Mile Maintenance Items

The following information is based on information found at http://smg.toyotapartsandservice.com/

Replace engine oil and oil filter 1
Rotate tires
Replace limited-slip differential oil, if equipped (4WD and PreRunner)
Replace spark plugs 6
Re-torque propeller shaft bolt
Replace engine air filter x1
Replace cabin air filter (if equipped)

Inspect the following:
Automatic transmission fluid
Ball joints and dust covers
Brake lines and hoses
Brake linings/drums and brake pads/discs 7
Drive shaft boots (4WD)
Engine coolant 8
Exhaust pipes and mountings
Front differential oil (4WD)
Fuel lines and connections, fuel tank band and fuel tank vapor vent system hoses
Fuel tank cap gasket
Radiator, condenser and/or intercooler
Rear differential oil
Steering gear box
Steering linkage and boots
Transfer case oil (4WD)

Additional Maintenance Items for Special Operating Conditions:

Driving While Towing
Replace front differential oil (4WD)
Replace rear differential oil, including limited-slip
Replace transfer case oil (4WD)
Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis

Driving in Desert or On Dirt Roads
Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis

Applicable Footnotes:
1) Reset the oil replacement reminder (“MAINT REQD”) light after replacing engine oil, if vehicle is equipped with this light.
6) Applies to Tacoma with 1GR-FE. Required under the terms of the Emission Control Warranty.
7) Inspect thickness measurement and disc runout.
8) See Maintenance Definitions (Engine Coolant) for details.

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Are those links working for anyone? I need to service my front end and a list of everything I need would be handy so I don't tear into it and realize I forgot something.
 
I have a bunch of broken links right now due to my old Tacodoc blog site being down. They're on the list of things to fix...
 
FUSE LOCATION DIAGRAMS

Tacoma fuses are in TWO locations, make sure you have several of these "mini" size blade fuses on hand in each size:

1. Drivers side dash panel

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2. Drivers side engine bay

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