Otto - The Tundra

Without the bus you will end up with giant wire bundle at the Switch Pro. I don't like that option either.
I can make wire connections pretty clean, but yeah, need to be able to stagger the splices.

Got some of the parts for my drawer. Half my cut list got lost in translation between the cabinet guy and me.... But that's ok, because math is hard! I had some dimensions off.... Should get the res of the parts today.

Exterior grade MDO. Inside will get lacquered, exterior will be bedliner.

Whipped up a quick clamp/square jig since I had some extra wrong sized parts....

Sides are on. Screwed and waterproof glued. Top will get nailed and screwed. Needs to resist the upward force when the drawer is pulled out.

Will set it in the bed before the top goes on. Drill up from under for Tnuts. Then it will be bolted in place from below for final install.

Taking latch votes. Will be a slam latch. Standard "truck box" style, or marine of some sort?



This happened last week. And yes I am a dork.
Id likely go switch pros as they can run daisy chained controllers. One in the bed, one in the cab would work well, but at the same time, do I need to turn driving lights on from the bed or bed lights from the cab?
sPod Bantam can be daisy chained with up to 4 units (switchable via the touchscreen), and 2 controllers.

For switching I went with the ARC 4001, 4 circuit, 30 amps each using standard relays. Not standard offroad equipment, but has been used for race cars forever. Complete warranty forever.

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I need some actual time to work on the truck.... Parts are piling up all over!

DSR1 and Infinity amp. The stock stereo is garbage. REALLY bad. DSR1 interfaces with the digital signal from the headunit and converts to normal analog for the amp. Only good thing is Toyota put the factory amp under the pass seat, so all the connections to the speakers and whatnot are right there. Have a nice P&P harness, so zero hacking into OE needed. Just need to run 4ga power.

SDHQ ditch light brackets. Really nice pieces. I have never really liked the look of the ditch lights but I am going to try. Ill run them as reverse lights if I hate it. Not a lot of real estate for lights on these.

Annnd roof rack parts just showed up! Going to try using 8020. Took a gamble on length, don't have the canopy to play with yet (corona slowing things down.....) so the cross bars may be a little short to mount awning on easily.... But 8020 looks pretty slick! I went with a double width.

Lots of structural corners/connectors etc.

And before anyone freaks out, I don't plan to have huge loads on the roof. Canoe, a sheet of plywood, 2x4's etc.
Had an hour and a half to make some progress yesterday.

Laid out for L track. Its not going full length as I expect the dog to be at the front most of the time (and this was an 8' piece :) )

Pocket routered out.

Nice tight fit. I took a lot of material out of the ply, and wanted to be able to add that structure back with the track.

System Three G-Flex epoxy. I have used this stuff before and its amazingly strong and flexible. Designed for fixing aluminum boats. You can literally bend the thin coat left behind in the mixing cup without it fracturing at all. Should hold up well to vibration and material movements with temps.

Clamp it up and leave it alone.

A little foil tape on the ends keeps the track from filling.
Assembly time!

Kreg screws are always just a touch proud, since I will be using UHMW PE for slides, I need smooth walls. 120 grit flap disk works great.

Now the hard part, holes in the new truck.... 7 to be exact because I screwed up one location. Luckily it was just an 1/8" bit so easy to fix.... 4 in the back 1/3, two in the front.

Back side get 4 recessed 5/15" T Nuts. They will be bolted from below.

Front gets two Riv nuts, to be installed from the top.

Top goes on, glue and 18ga nails, plus some screws in select locations.

No shiners or glue dribble on the inside, so back can go on. All the nails and screws holes were filled with plastic wood putty.

Next drawer assembly!
Switch controls have arrived. While not as fancy as the sPod or switch pros, Its dead simple, made in the USA and has a forever warranty. 4 30amp circuits, standard relays and fuses. The control panel is a bit big, but I will see where I can find a home for it.

Got some time for the drawer today.

Its big. Sand the edges so glue will bond.

Recessed the latch

It fits!

Slides well on the UHMW, may need to add air holes.... Its got some suction

Added an aluminum strike and catch for the latch

Glued the slides in place

A little CAD. sorry lighting sucks... 20200713_131438.jpg

A little more are WA la.

Transfer to ply, 2x because o can do it better than #1

A little router and block action and it fits pretty damn well.

Hopefully I can get the bed liner sprayed Wednesday.
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