Synthetic winch lines - educate and discuss

Brett C

Adventurist
Senior Staff
Moderator
Ok gang break down your knowledge of synthetic winch lines please.

Brands that are good, bad and why (actual reasons please not.....because it's orange)

Care, proper spooling and prep.

Pros and cons vs. steel cable.

I read a nice article explaining why two individuals brand new synthetic mines broke on second pull. The winch line was spooled on incorrectly. The line went on top of the drum which wasn't a direct draw onto the spool. It actually drug across the fairlead causing it to wear and be cut.

Tidbits of info like that are what I'm looking for too.


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As a rock crawler I preferred steel cable. I've worked course recovery at rock crawling events, so I've got my fair share of recoveries under my belt.

Steel will take more abuse than synthetic will. It's not a good idea to drag either type across rocks, but steel will handle it with minimal damage. Steel cables will break, although I've never seen it happen. Synthetic line will also break, I've witnessed numerous synthetic lines break.

For what we do I think synthetic is preferable over steel. Synthetic is SO much lighter and easier to handle. It's significantly safer if it does break, it doesn't whiplash back like steel cable does. With the proper use of chaff guards synthetic can be just as durable as steel.

My intentions are to switch my '05 Wrangler over to synthetic, my problem is I'm inherently cheap and new steel cables keep coming my way at bargain prices. I learned to do recoveries with steel cable, I feel like I know the safety considerations when using steel cable, so I'll keep using it for now.

Safety...this is all seat of the pants, world of hard knocks.

ONE person is in charge of the winching operation, all other spectators/supervision MUST be out of the arc that a parted line could snap back at. I understand that is not as big of a deal with synthetic, still a good safety practice.

Use a line weight, whether it's a blanket or some form of dedicated line weight, you want something on the line to knock it down if the line does break.

Look at what you are using as a recovery point. I've seen a bumper get pulled off of a Jeep and go flying...scary.

Don't straddle or step over a winch line that has weight on it. (seriously, I've seen a guy straddle a line during a recovery)
 
I used synthetic for a while but have gone back to steel. Reason being I use my winch more for work at the farm than vehicle recovery and the steel definitely holds up better to that kind of use.
 
Both have their pros and cons. I was a rock climber for a number of years so I'm used to working with and caring for synthetic ropes. When compared to a steel winch rope I find a synthetic rope a lot easier to work with and generally a little safer to work with. That said, I'm very proactive about driving and mitigating the risk of getting stuck. As such I very rarely need to use a winch and when I do it's usually when I'm guiding and someone else is stuck (or I'm just stupid stuck on a bracket and need a quick tug like when I got stuck going downhill in Moab).

As mentioned, if you're using your winch a lot more frequently in rough terrain or using it for "work" (hauling/dragging/etc) you're better off sticking with a steel rope. Also, steel is much better for wet/muddy environments.

I'll never take sides in the "which is better" or "which is safer" arguments. Rigging and recovery is inherently risky. It's on the person to do the job safely using the gear appropriately. Even the best gear can be misused and abused. Steel ropes have their place. Synthetic ropes have their place.

That said, for me right here right now I'm very glad to have a new Custom Splice ⅜" line on my winch. Very good company and a quality product. I doubt I'll ever go back to steel cable on my personal rig.
 
Ok so this brings up a new question. Cost of synthetic line. Some are $300-400 and some such as the custom splice company mentioned above are $120-150.

Which are good which aren't. Which are just good deals because it's not a common name yet. Etc.

Edit: Custom Splice website is very misleading on price. 75' comes out to $268. More on par with other brands.

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Ok so this brings up a new question. Cost of synthetic line. Some are $300-400 and some such as the custom splice company mentioned above are $120-150.

Which are good which aren't. Which are just good deals because it's not a common name yet. Etc.


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I am friends with the owner of custom splice and have seen his work first hand. He sells a top notch product at a great price. In my experience most of the more expensive companies out there are using the same line that custom splice is, and I have yet to figure out how they can charge so much. That being said, I have steel on my winch as I come from the same background as Bob, plus I think I've used my winch twice since it's been on the truck to pull other people out of snow banks. If you're safe about your recovery techniques, steel is just fine to use, but ripe does have advantages.
 
^^^^So what brand of rope is he using?
He uses Amsteel Blue which is what a lot of the other guys are using, that has proven to be a great product, from what I have read, and seen in the rock crawling competition world. Custom Splice sponsors quite a few racers with his rope, and the stuff works great from what I have seen.
 
I have a metric butt-load of tid-bits for you...

Attached is the Rope Users Manual produced by Samson (in pdf format). That should answer all your questions from cradle to grave on synthetics.

Immediately below is a table of common synthetic ropes if you don't want to read a 52 page document.

Or, just get the synthetic winch line because I said so...

_______________________________________
Synthetic Rope Comparison Table

MATERIAL ADVANTAGES, DISADVANTAGES and USES

Polypropylene
  • Floats
  • Inexpensive
  • Not sensitive to chemical attack
  • Tough, abrasion resistant
  • Resists wetting
  • No loss of strength in water
  • Degrades in UV
  • Not as strong as other synthetics
  • Stiff, slippery, knots come undone (some softer braids are made)
  • Low melting point
  • Stretches (not as much as Nylon)
Uses:
Dinghy Mainsheets, Rescue and tow lines, Water ski lines, light anchor lines.
Examples:
Shoreline Marine Polypropylene Anchor Line, 1/4-Inch x 100-Feet
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Rope King HBP-381000Y Hollow Braided Poly Rope - Yellow - 3/8 inch x 1,000 feet
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Nylon®, Perlon®
  • Good UV Resistance
  • Absorbs shock (stretches)
  • Good chemical resistance
  • Moderately priced
  • Very stretchy
  • Weaker when wet
  • Smoke is nasty when burning (cyanide)
Uses:
Stretch reduces shock load so Anchor lines, Some tow lines, Mooring lines, Safety lines.
Examples:
Attwood Nylon Twisted Anchor Line with Thimble (1/2-Inchx100-Feet)
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Norestar Braided Nylon Anchor Rope, 150-Feet x 3/8-Inch
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Polyester
  • Excellent UV resistance
  • Moderate stretch
  • Abrasion resistant
  • Good chemical resistance
  • Keeps strength when wet
  • Moderately priced
  • Not unpleasant to handle
  • Sinks
  • Quite stiff
Uses:
Best all round line when you don't need ultra strong or light lines. Most common halyard rope material for boat use.
Examples:
1/2" X 100' Double Braid/Yacht Braid Premium Polyester Halyard Rigging Line
1/4" By 100 Feet Double Braided Polyester Rope
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UHMWPE - Spectra®, Dyneema®
  • Very Strong
  • Doesn't wet
  • Very Chemically resistant
  • Abrasion Resistant
  • UV resistant
  • Light and floats
  • Good flex fatigue resistance
  • Slippery, hard to knot
  • Low melting point
  • Creeps under constant load
  • Ropes tend to distort under load unless coated
  • Knots tend to undo
  • Expensive
Uses:
High performance yacht lines, winch lines, fishing lines.
Examples:
AMSTEEL BLUE WINCH ROPE 1/4 inch x 50 ft - MILITARY GREEN (9,200 lb strength) (4X4 VEHICLE RECOVERY)
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AMSTEEL BLUE WINCH ROPE 1/2 inch x 100 ft Blue (34,000 lb strength) (4X4 VEHICLE RECOVERY)
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Aramid - Kevlar, Twaron®, Technora®, Nomex®
  • Very Strong
  • Low stretch
  • Low creep
  • Fire Resistant
  • Good chemical resistance
  • Cut resistant
  • Not Electrically Conductive
  • UV sensitive
  • Sensitive to shock loads
  • Sensitive to Chlorine, protective gloves cannot be bleached with chlorine.
  • Poor flex/fatigue resistance
  • Weakened by knots, often special terminals.
  • Sensitive to internal friction
  • Expensive
Uses:
Winch lines, Sometimes as steel rope replacement where weight saving is important. Used in large ships where having a non conductive cable with no electromagnetic interference is useful. Not much used in boats except for stays. Lifting straps, paracord/survival line.
Examples:
X-cords Paracord 850 Lb Stronger Than 550 and 750 Made By US Government Certified Contractor (100' BLACK DIAMOND KEVLAR ON SPOOL)
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SGT KNOTS® Technora 950 Survival Cord - 100 Feet
ir


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And that's a wrap folks :lol

@TangoBlue gave you all the hard data you need about synthetic. Many others have made good points as well. Here's a few tidbits I'd like to add.

As mentioned, if you're using your winch a lot more frequently in rough terrain or using it for "work" (hauling/dragging/etc) you're better off sticking with a steel rope. Also, steel is much better for wet/muddy environments.

While I agree that steel is better for most work because of it's abrasion resistance (I worked for a decade as a logger/rigging slinger/chaser/all around hand in the PNW), the fishing industry has been using synthetic for decades (I also worked the Bering Sea as a commercial fisherman before joining the Navy) so the statement that steel is better for wet environments holds no water with me ;)

As for mud, I spent a season helicopter logging in the Cascades and north eastern Oregon and we used synthetic rope chokers. Flying a 4,000 lb turn of 40 ft logs over your head reinforces the need to clean, inspect and care for your rope. Care for it and it won't let you down when it's go time.

That said, whether you choose steel or synthetic it is imperative that you know your gear and inspect the line (and spool it properly) EVERY TIME you spool it in and out. I run synthetic and am a perfectionist when it comes to spooling line onto my drum - it's too damn expensive to just abuse it for no reason other than laziness.

But no matter how much you geek out on gear maintenance, all lines wear out eventually. Some for no apparent reason at all. I've seen brand new 7/8 line part and thrash around like a dragon's tail for 300 yards looking for a body to cleave. That stored energy was downright devilish.

Synthetic breaks sometimes too so don't get cocky because you are using synthetic. Think about what you are connected to (recovery points, pulley blocks, screw pin bow shackles etc) and how hard you are pulling on it all and stay the hell out of the bight - if you treat synthetic with the same healthy respect as steel you will be glad for it if/when anything fails under load.

.02
 
Also, UV is very hard on Dyneema fiber so be sure to protect the line from the sun. NEVER tie knots in the line. If you need to repair it, learn how to splice or see someone who can put a splice in it for you. Splices are stronger than the line itself while any knot will reduce the strength of a synthetic line to 40-80% of its original breaking strength.
 
I'll add a few observations I haven't noticed in the above posts: Please use your own brain to evaluate them, there is always a chance that I am full of %#@t.

There is a learning curve when switching from steel to synthetic.

Care and use

(1) Steel is easier to spool smoothly onto a drum, but much less forgiving when you do it wrong. A steel cable that's wound incorrectly can form a "birdcage" that will affect the strength of the cable. A synthetic cable that is wound incorrectly is much less likely to damage the cable, but its also requires more care to wind correctly. The "softness" of the synthetic cable is not as good at pushing the line laterally as it spools onto the drum. This makes it more likely that the synthetic will wrap across itself. Synthetic is also more likely to wedge itself down into the gaps in the layers beneath the one being wound. This results in the cable being pinched and makes it difficult to free spool the cable.

(2) You need more tension on the synthetic cable to properly install it and wind it in. (see the "gaps" comment in note 1).

(3) We do a lot of scrambling up and down tall steep dunes here in Dubai. The synthetic cables are sooooooo much easier to work with when you have to climb up the dune to your anchor.

Ease of Handling


(4) Synthetic is also much easier on the hands. I know we are all manly men who don't care about such things, but my wife uses the gear as much as I do.

(5) I think the UV issue with synthetics may not be as big an issue as it once was. I know manufacturers have been working on the issue, and I have no science to back this up, but I am not seeing any difference in lifespan between the ones out here with covers and the ones exposed to daily sun. There are a lot of old synthetic cables out here, and nobody breaks them. Even the scary looking fuzzy ones. (note that the sand recoveries we do here do not put nearly as much strain on the cables as mud or rocks.)

Safety

(6) I also think the safety factor is a little overblown. Not because synthetic isn't truly safer, but because, in the applications we generally see, steel cable is not really as dangerous as its made out to be. It can hurt you, but I don't think its as bad as its reputation.

The danger from "snap back" comes from the stored energy in the line. The amount of stored energy is the product of two things: (1) the amount of stretch in the line; and (2) the weight of the line (or attached projectile (think tow hooks)). Both synthetic and steel cable score very well in the first category. Synthetic stretches less, but steel hardly stretches at all in the lengths we use for a recovery so there isn't much real gain. The internet tells me that steel cable stretches about 0.1% (most broken-in cables will stretch less), so the 50 feet of cable you usually have out will only recoil about 0.5 inches. Shorter lengths of cable unwound will recoil proportionately less. Synthetic is much better in the weight category, but neither is really a huge threat unless there's a projectile like a hook, shackle or tow point.

I have seen a steel cable part on a 12k winch. It dropped to the ground and coiled up like a slinky. The guy had about 80 feet of line out and the cable parted about six inches from the hook. The frayed end of the cable came to rest about 10-15 feet away exactly in line with the pull. Most of that distance was the result of the cable gong back to the coiled "set" it had taken from being stored on the drum. If you had been straddling the line when it broke it would have scared the crap out of you, but it would not have torn your blue jeans. Much less killed everyone in an 80-foot radius like a giant guillotine. A whipping cable on a 4wd recovery can scratch paint or put your eye out, or cut you, and should be given due respect. But its not nearly as risky as a snatch strap. I am not advocating that you be stupid or take chances you don't have to. Be safe, follow all the best practices, but don't be scared of the bogey man. I think you are actually in much more danger if the cable holds and the recovery point breaks. That 0.96 inches of acceleration might put a lump on your head if there's a shackle attached.

Snatch straps on the other hand are extremely dangerous if mishandled. They store infinitely more energy (advertised 30% stretch instead of 0.1% stretch), and are usually much stronger than the tow points they are attached to. The shackle on the winch cable will leave a good bruise, but the 20,000mph tow hook on the end of an unbroken snatch strap will go through you and the car behind you.

Durability

When we all had steel cables everybody knew-somebody-who-knew-somebody-who-heard-about-a-guy that had seen one break. Now that synthetic cables are popular, lots more people seem to have actually gotten to experience it first hand. I don't know if that means anything or not, but it's food for thought.

I love my synthetic cables in the desert where there are no rocks or trees that will abrade the cable. They last a good long time out here. But back in southeastern U.S., I wouldn't want one. My recoveries there always seemed to be in places that often involved rocks or ledges or trees or some other obstacle or tourist in the way. The cables took a lot more abuse there. Back home, I still have a 20-year old cable on a Warn 8,000 lb winch that remains in great shape after a lot of use and abuse. I don't think a synthetic line would still be there.

My concern on durability is not the expense, but rather the consequences of it not doing the job when you need it. After using both types for a number of years, I think that in most environments, a well maintained steel cable is less likely to fail when you need it.
 
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I do not have the same experience pulling trucks out of sticky situations, but I do have a lot of experience rigging. Both dry and marine side. We used Amsteel Blue underwater to rig and winch just about everything. Light and strong, wet or dry, it is a great line. The only real downfall to it is sun damage. need to keep it covered with either a line bag/winch sock or use a line cover. (I prefer a Kevlar sleeve).
I used to use a 1/4" line to winch a 1200 LBS vehicle out of the ocean in very rough seas on a daily basis. Never has that line snapped.
On the same note I have used a lot of steel lines and have never had one part.
 
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